Diesel Power Magazine 1st gen buildup

How to make it go fast

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Postby flashgordon » Sun Dec 16, 2007 6:00 pm

GLHS,
If you go back down to RMR next summer, let me know, I might fallow ya down :thumleft:
That is if i can get my truck from total embarrassment,..... too, it runs OK!

Did the 1/8 mile conversion of high 12's to 1/4 mile
E.T...... :oops: :oops: :oops:

It's got to be doing way better then that, if I'm going to go down there.

If one of our local sponsor, of our track up here, dose put up the cash for a concrete starting pad...........You could stop here a day earlier and have kind of a test-n-tune before had...........It's only 1/8 mile tho

Don't know if it will happen just yet, but I will let yeah know.

The current track surface, is about half the traction you would get on the road. :sad:
91.0 non intercooled 3/4 ton 5sd ex.straight piped 16cm housing, timing bumped 1/16...Pump . Full power screw1/2 max with out removing the collar. Gear Vender over drive!
"NOW" with 2nt gen intercooler, turbo and 3"Coolertubz, Buy Tim (TWorline)"
flashgordon
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Postby KRB64 » Tue Dec 18, 2007 5:05 pm

KTA wrote:
Begle1 wrote:
KTA wrote:On a side note launching a high power cummins without using true manual low( which has the 1st/reverse band applied) will usually rip the overrunning clutch sprag out of the case, therby junking your tranny. I have 2 47Re cases that are trashed to prove it. :shock:


When are you in "true manual low" as opposed to what isn't true manual low?


On a stock valve body true manual low the one marked L on your shifter applies the 1st reverse band. When in the drive position D the 1st gear start is accomplished only with the overrunning clutch, the band is not applied. The 47RH/RE and 48 RE all have a kind of made in overrunning sprag, they don't bolt in like the 727.


OK, I know I'm jumping in here a little after the fact but back up for a second for me. I'm fairly mechanically inclined but the auto tranny is still a black hole for me - deep, dark and mysterious. :sad:

What I'm digesting is that a stock 518 behaves differently in "1" than when starting from a stop in "D" correct? So when loaded, I need to shift down to "1" and manualy shift up right?

If correct, what exactly is going on in there that makes this better for a loaded transmission? :?

And my apologies for digressing from the mag build theme... :oops:
'92 W250 CC LE, auto, OD on shift, 3.54 limited; boost/PT pyro/tranny, oil temp, fuel press, tach; Bosch 190s, Ol' Smoky, 366 spring, full fuel, pull cable, 1/8" bump, synthetics, Borgeson, aFe, 16cm house, 4" pipe, AT cooler, ton shoes, ext reg...
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Postby flashgordon » Tue Dec 18, 2007 7:49 pm

KRB64 wrote:
KTA wrote:
Begle1 wrote:
KTA wrote:On a side note launching a high power cummins without using true manual low( which has the 1st/reverse band applied) will usually rip the overrunning clutch sprag out of the case, therby junking your tranny. I have 2 47Re cases that are trashed to prove it. :shock:


When are you in "true manual low" as opposed to what isn't true manual low?


On a stock valve body true manual low the one marked L on your shifter applies the 1st reverse band. When in the drive position D the 1st gear start is accomplished only with the overrunning clutch, the band is not applied. The 47RH/RE and 48 RE all have a kind of made in overrunning sprag, they don't bolt in like the 727.


OK, I know I'm jumping in here a little after the fact but back up for a second for me. I'm fairly mechanically inclined but the auto tranny is still a black hole for me - deep, dark and mysterious. :sad:

What I'm digesting is that a stock 518 behaves differently in "1" than when starting from a stop in "D" correct? So when loaded, I need to shift down to "1" and manualy shift up right?

If correct, what exactly is going on in there that makes this better for a loaded transmission? :?

And my apologies for digressing from the mag build theme... :oops:


I'm real GRAY in auto tranny but i will try!
If you understand how a planetary gear set work then i might be able to pull this off........Ya know the sun, planetary and ring gear .....Yes, no?

when you take off, with the shifter in D you take off in first gear with the rear clutch applied sending power, driven thru the planetary gear. the over riding clutch in stopped in its track as is the revers drum. hold the drum in place alowing first to happen.

when you release the go peddle and coast, there is no hold back from the tranny as the one way clutch, sprag, over riding clutch(what ever term you want to us) is not holding any more and is free willing or spinning back ward........and so is the reverse drum.
When you pull the shift lever in to L1 the revers band stop the drum(which also hold and keep the overriding clutch from spinning) allowing deceleration in first gear.

IN simple terms, when you have it in L1 you have.......say twice the holding power and the eng will hold you back.
In "D" and takeing off, not as strong and will shift into 2nt when you let of the go peddle(which will hold you back when decelerating with shift lever in "D"

Make sence????

If not, do a search on the net there way better explainaiton then i could give.

As far as having a heavy load and starting a way in "D" or L1...........L1 would only be necessary with tons of power and trying to take off from a dead stop and get to full speed as fast as you can............Just like drag racing :)


Flash.
Last edited by flashgordon on Fri Jan 11, 2008 9:20 pm, edited 1 time in total.
91.0 non intercooled 3/4 ton 5sd ex.straight piped 16cm housing, timing bumped 1/16...Pump . Full power screw1/2 max with out removing the collar. Gear Vender over drive!
"NOW" with 2nt gen intercooler, turbo and 3"Coolertubz, Buy Tim (TWorline)"
flashgordon
fuel screw!!!!
 
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Postby KRB64 » Wed Dec 19, 2007 12:20 am

That does make sense. Thanks for the clift note version.

I wanted conformation that 1 was different than D starting out, I just thought you were controlling shift points, I didn't realize you were actually changing the dynamics of the tranny too.

Many thanks,
'92 W250 CC LE, auto, OD on shift, 3.54 limited; boost/PT pyro/tranny, oil temp, fuel press, tach; Bosch 190s, Ol' Smoky, 366 spring, full fuel, pull cable, 1/8" bump, synthetics, Borgeson, aFe, 16cm house, 4" pipe, AT cooler, ton shoes, ext reg...
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Postby flashgordon » Wed Dec 19, 2007 7:04 am

JQ, I real thing you need to go intercooled for your mild start, and i thing you should go with the 2nt gen intercooler and pipes.

Why? For one, 2nt gen will be a hole lot easier, for people fallowing your ride in Diesel Power Magazine 1st gen buildup......It would be easy to duplicate it. first gen and the banks stuff would be hard pressed to find compared to the 2nt gen intercooler set up.

Then when you pull the stick to WILD!!!!!!!!!! You could get one of these diesel places like PDR or the place the made GLHS intercooler, to donate a intercooler for the mention of there product...........Bet they would even have a 2nt gen intercooler in stock!!!!!!!!

Flash.
91.0 non intercooled 3/4 ton 5sd ex.straight piped 16cm housing, timing bumped 1/16...Pump . Full power screw1/2 max with out removing the collar. Gear Vender over drive!
"NOW" with 2nt gen intercooler, turbo and 3"Coolertubz, Buy Tim (TWorline)"
flashgordon
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Postby slowdiesel » Wed Dec 19, 2007 4:04 pm

2nd gen intercoolers are not wide enough. Powerstroke works much better!
1984 D100 Ve-Twins.

Special Thanks Mayer Farm Equipment
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Postby flashgordon » Wed Dec 19, 2007 11:27 pm

slowdiesel wrote:2nd gen intercoolers are not wide enough. Powerstroke works much better!


I don't now if the radiator support is different between the 89-90 but my 91 non intercooler support works just fine........snugs right up against the reinforcements. :thumright:

I would be nice to now if the radiator support is the same as the intercooled 91, or if it is the same as the 89-90........Or if it is it's own breed................

If any one has a pic of a 89-90 radiator support, with the grill remove...........I WOULD REALY LIKE TO COMPARE! ;)

This is what my radiator support looks like with the two holes in it for the banks set up!
Image

I was showed how to make the pic come out instead of a link........So i though i would change this one! ;)
Last edited by flashgordon on Fri Jan 11, 2008 9:11 pm, edited 1 time in total.
91.0 non intercooled 3/4 ton 5sd ex.straight piped 16cm housing, timing bumped 1/16...Pump . Full power screw1/2 max with out removing the collar. Gear Vender over drive!
"NOW" with 2nt gen intercooler, turbo and 3"Coolertubz, Buy Tim (TWorline)"
flashgordon
fuel screw!!!!
 
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Postby JD730 » Thu Dec 20, 2007 5:14 am

slowdiesel wrote:2nd gen intercoolers are not wide enough. Powerstroke works much better!

What?!?!?! How do you figure that?
2nd gen intercoolers are wider than a 1st gen intercooler, quite a bit in fact.
The powerstroke intercooler is about the same width as the 1st gen one only its a little taller and maybe a hair thicker.
Mike
Thats not a leak, its the external lubrication system.
The "Rattle Box"
93 W250 Silver Club Cab, few tweaks here and there.
John Deere Two Cylinders, too many to list.
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Postby cummins king » Fri Jan 11, 2008 4:33 pm

i got my feb diesel power im sorry but i have the same admount of power with stock injectors with a 16cm exhaust housing, you should put water meth instead of nitrous, and 300hp with stock injectors isnt possible, for a turbo you should put an hx40 with a 4 inch exhaust and you will hit 350hp, so many people would do that mod, and its cheap, not many people want to throw 1250 for a preformance turbo, and you wouldnt need nitrous, and the ve can handle 350hp worth of fuel, and you can order injectors with the 9mm

Image

oops did i do that
93 4X4 auto
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Postby RumbleFish » Fri Jan 11, 2008 9:03 pm

300hp IS possible with the stock nonIC injectors. Ask CSchafer.
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Postby cummins king » Fri Jan 11, 2008 9:36 pm

what with a 14mm head or edming stock injectors, i can see you moving enough fuel with stock injectors, was it with nitrous
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Postby RumbleFish » Fri Jan 11, 2008 9:43 pm

12mm head, no edming, no nitrous. The non IC injectors move more fuel. He has a dyno sheet of 301rwhp floating around somewhere.
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Postby cummins king » Fri Jan 11, 2008 9:52 pm

not bad i guess im wrong, but in a mag you probaly want to have an average, between non ic and ic
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Postby Underpsi » Sat Jan 12, 2008 12:21 am

I bet If I swapped my stocks with the pods in mine i'd see over 300. Those pods were a waste of money on my truck, didn't make a difference ( not noticable at all anyways)
1989 D250 5spd w/SB3250DD, .020 over head gasket, O-rings, Extensive port/polish, ARP head studs, 62/71/14, 6x.018 sticks. First Dyno stock turbo and pods: 343/879
2nd with 62 & big sticks: 393/813
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Postby RumbleFish » Sat Jan 12, 2008 6:54 am

Underpsi wrote:Those pods were a waste of money on my truck, didn't make a difference ( not noticable at all anyways)


The only difference I noticed in my early 91 was higher egts. If I only knew then what I know now....
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