replacing head,do I need the head studs?

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replacing head,do I need the head studs?

Postby rockmike » Tue Feb 05, 2013 11:17 am

Hey guys,my head gasket is seeping coolant into the cylinders,coolant just magically disapates :mrgreen:

Im going to order up a new ready to bolt on head for it,probably install a 2nd gen intake horn and drill that exhaust manifold for the egt probe.

If I do upgrade turbos(later down the road) I may try the he 351?I'll be useing felpro head set gaskets and ordering the new improved cummins 12v head gasket.Do y'all think its needed to run the ARP head studs with my set up? they sure are expensive! Could I get by fine with replacement head bolts?

Thanks,appreciate your help.
93 d350 extra cab 5 speed dually.

Mods: hx35,rotated fuel pin,bosch 190 inj.,BHAF with smooth intake tube,3200 rpm spring,M&H dynamic timing spacer,isspro EGT and boost gauge,Auto meter tach, fuel press. gauge.Diamond eye 4" exhaust,Sno Stage 2 W/M kit.

Real trucks dont use spark plugs!
rockmike
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Re: replacing head,do I need the head studs?

Postby RCCUMMINS89 » Tue Feb 05, 2013 1:32 pm

Do yourself a favor and go studs..... otherwise you'll be close to the limit again.

I was told not to go studs because a ve pump doesn't product the power and unless I'm running 45+ not to do studs, I went studs anyways.... One gentleman told me to do o rings at that time and I was like no I'll never need o rings.

Guess what.... I blew another hg even with studs, now my truck is o ringed.
89 RC on shortened 92 diesel frame - NV4500 w/dual disc/4.10s on 37s. - Self built pump, "hot screw", lots of timing, True high volume low pressure lift pump, 62fmw/68/.7gated, 77lpm SAC Inj., Studs/O-rings,- 423/1220 Mustang - 11/16/2013 http://www.TheHungryDiesel.com full line dealer, if you don't see it please ask.
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Re: replacing head,do I need the head studs?

Postby rockmike » Tue Feb 05, 2013 2:00 pm

ARP studs are ordered...kinda sucks I have to machine down the rocker peds for the ARP install...

These engines arnt real prone to bent pushrods? I would think since they run a low rpm the push rods should be fine? obviously I'll check them.
93 d350 extra cab 5 speed dually.

Mods: hx35,rotated fuel pin,bosch 190 inj.,BHAF with smooth intake tube,3200 rpm spring,M&H dynamic timing spacer,isspro EGT and boost gauge,Auto meter tach, fuel press. gauge.Diamond eye 4" exhaust,Sno Stage 2 W/M kit.

Real trucks dont use spark plugs!
rockmike
fuel screw!!!!
 
Posts: 94
Joined: Mon Jan 21, 2013 3:58 pm
Location: Benton City,Wa.
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Re: replacing head,do I need the head studs?

Postby RCCUMMINS89 » Tue Feb 05, 2013 2:27 pm

Um.... I haven't heard of the issue. The same guy that can port/polish your head, did my rockers and o rings. He only charged me $40 to machine down the rockers. Of course, if you have an end mill you could do it yourself.
89 RC on shortened 92 diesel frame - NV4500 w/dual disc/4.10s on 37s. - Self built pump, "hot screw", lots of timing, True high volume low pressure lift pump, 62fmw/68/.7gated, 77lpm SAC Inj., Studs/O-rings,- 423/1220 Mustang - 11/16/2013 http://www.TheHungryDiesel.com full line dealer, if you don't see it please ask.
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Re: replacing head,do I need the head studs?

Postby PToombs » Tue Feb 05, 2013 6:24 pm

Mike, make sure when you assemble that the pushrod is in the tappet, or you will have bent pushrods. ;)
pete

Just enough power to break everything behind the crankshaft.
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Re: replacing head,do I need the head studs?

Postby rockmike » Tue Feb 05, 2013 6:52 pm

RCCUMMINS89 wrote:Um.... I haven't heard of the issue. The same guy that can port/polish your head, did my rockers and o rings. He only charged me $40 to machine down the rockers. Of course, if you have an end mill you could do it yourself.


Man I would love to have the head ported and polished,I just dont have time to send it off and do this or the funds...im fixin to be one broke moe foe :roll: BUT! the head im getting is new and loaded,hmm no core I get to keep my head,so as funds will allow Ill have the old head tested for cracks and have it sent out and ported and polished(I really no nothing about doing this correctly)then do a swap later down the road when im looking to get some more out of her....maybe a new cam,he 351 and the ported and polished head 8)
93 d350 extra cab 5 speed dually.

Mods: hx35,rotated fuel pin,bosch 190 inj.,BHAF with smooth intake tube,3200 rpm spring,M&H dynamic timing spacer,isspro EGT and boost gauge,Auto meter tach, fuel press. gauge.Diamond eye 4" exhaust,Sno Stage 2 W/M kit.

Real trucks dont use spark plugs!
rockmike
fuel screw!!!!
 
Posts: 94
Joined: Mon Jan 21, 2013 3:58 pm
Location: Benton City,Wa.
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Re: replacing head,do I need the head studs?

Postby rockmike » Tue Feb 05, 2013 6:53 pm

PToombs wrote:Mike, make sure when you assemble that the pushrod is in the tappet, or you will have bent pushrods. ;)



I sure appreciate y'all chimin in helpin a dude out! I will watch those pushrods real close and make damn good and sure they are seated correctly.

Thanks! again.
93 d350 extra cab 5 speed dually.

Mods: hx35,rotated fuel pin,bosch 190 inj.,BHAF with smooth intake tube,3200 rpm spring,M&H dynamic timing spacer,isspro EGT and boost gauge,Auto meter tach, fuel press. gauge.Diamond eye 4" exhaust,Sno Stage 2 W/M kit.

Real trucks dont use spark plugs!
rockmike
fuel screw!!!!
 
Posts: 94
Joined: Mon Jan 21, 2013 3:58 pm
Location: Benton City,Wa.
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Re: replacing head,do I need the head studs?

Postby rockmike » Tue Feb 05, 2013 6:59 pm

RCCUMMINS89 wrote:Um.... I haven't heard of the issue. The same guy that can port/polish your head, did my rockers and o rings. He only charged me $40 to machine down the rockers. Of course, if you have an end mill you could do it yourself.


I just happen to have many selections on end mills and the mill to use them ;) needa good set of parallels for this though,I had a barrowed set that I had to give back a lil while back...hmmm need more tools! :mrgreen:
93 d350 extra cab 5 speed dually.

Mods: hx35,rotated fuel pin,bosch 190 inj.,BHAF with smooth intake tube,3200 rpm spring,M&H dynamic timing spacer,isspro EGT and boost gauge,Auto meter tach, fuel press. gauge.Diamond eye 4" exhaust,Sno Stage 2 W/M kit.

Real trucks dont use spark plugs!
rockmike
fuel screw!!!!
 
Posts: 94
Joined: Mon Jan 21, 2013 3:58 pm
Location: Benton City,Wa.
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Re: replacing head,do I need the head studs?

Postby RCCUMMINS89 » Tue Feb 05, 2013 7:07 pm

All the above is a great idea.....
89 RC on shortened 92 diesel frame - NV4500 w/dual disc/4.10s on 37s. - Self built pump, "hot screw", lots of timing, True high volume low pressure lift pump, 62fmw/68/.7gated, 77lpm SAC Inj., Studs/O-rings,- 423/1220 Mustang - 11/16/2013 http://www.TheHungryDiesel.com full line dealer, if you don't see it please ask.
RCCUMMINS89
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Re: replacing head,do I need the head studs?

Postby skilletky » Tue Feb 05, 2013 9:36 pm

If it were me doing it again, I'd have a pushrod or 2 around. I had 2 I thought for sure were seated by they were not
92 d350, arp's, orings, 150lb springs, 4200 gsk ,ground pin ,64/71/14 ,ddp inj's, ats manifold, tim's tubez, ats trans, FASS, locker, timing + a tooth, bcdd intake

2001 2wd rclb dually 5sp, smarty, Bluechip FMS, TS MVP, 57/75 twins, stainless diesel pipe kit, valair clutch, airdog 150, DFI SAC 7x.014's, cheap a$$ intake, ARP studs, oringed head, CPP 115# springs
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Re: replacing head,do I need the head studs?

Postby RCCUMMINS89 » Tue Feb 05, 2013 9:52 pm

Why does it bend a pushrod by not being seated? Do you mean on the edge of the tappet, so it over compressed it? Or completely off the edge?

And when it isn't seated are you bending it by starting the motor, or just turning it over by hand and checking valve lash?
89 RC on shortened 92 diesel frame - NV4500 w/dual disc/4.10s on 37s. - Self built pump, "hot screw", lots of timing, True high volume low pressure lift pump, 62fmw/68/.7gated, 77lpm SAC Inj., Studs/O-rings,- 423/1220 Mustang - 11/16/2013 http://www.TheHungryDiesel.com full line dealer, if you don't see it please ask.
RCCUMMINS89
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Joined: Mon Oct 03, 2011 4:19 pm
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Re: replacing head,do I need the head studs?

Postby skilletky » Tue Feb 05, 2013 11:58 pm

I guess it's on the edge of the tappet. I always bump it over to make sure all the push rods are seated. They bend when the valve ain't closed all the way and the piston hits the valve, which in turn bends the push rod, unless you spent all that money on billet push rods. Then you bend a valve. I'd rather replace a $15 stock push rod then a valve with the expensive push rods (tubes)
92 d350, arp's, orings, 150lb springs, 4200 gsk ,ground pin ,64/71/14 ,ddp inj's, ats manifold, tim's tubez, ats trans, FASS, locker, timing + a tooth, bcdd intake

2001 2wd rclb dually 5sp, smarty, Bluechip FMS, TS MVP, 57/75 twins, stainless diesel pipe kit, valair clutch, airdog 150, DFI SAC 7x.014's, cheap a$$ intake, ARP studs, oringed head, CPP 115# springs
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skilletky
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Re: replacing head,do I need the head studs?

Postby oldestof11 » Wed Feb 06, 2013 5:12 am

If you go bigger than 60lbs springs, push rods can deflect quite a bit according to Zach Hamilton
Jon
93 D250~ Mismatch of cheap parts, trying to look fast going slow
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Re: replacing head,do I need the head studs?

Postby skilletky » Wed Feb 06, 2013 7:04 am

oldestof11 wrote:If you go bigger than 60lbs springs, push rods can deflect quite a bit according to Zach Hamilton


i believe it, but beings that i drive the truck on a regular basis, i like the idea that if i do get on it, and something was to happen where i got piston slap, i would hopefuly only have to replaced the push tube.which could be done on the side of the road if one had to, and with minimal toos. if it were going to be a dedicated track truck trailer queen, then id go with the billet pushrods.
92 d350, arp's, orings, 150lb springs, 4200 gsk ,ground pin ,64/71/14 ,ddp inj's, ats manifold, tim's tubez, ats trans, FASS, locker, timing + a tooth, bcdd intake

2001 2wd rclb dually 5sp, smarty, Bluechip FMS, TS MVP, 57/75 twins, stainless diesel pipe kit, valair clutch, airdog 150, DFI SAC 7x.014's, cheap a$$ intake, ARP studs, oringed head, CPP 115# springs
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skilletky
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Re: replacing head,do I need the head studs?

Postby rockmike » Wed Feb 06, 2013 10:08 am

I got started on the repair last night.I decided it would be best on my back if I removed the inner fender well so I can just stand there next to the motor and work on it so...

Image
100_0584 by ffolted, on Flickr

Image
100_0585 by ffolted, on Flickr

I dont have alot of wrenching tools,im more of a fabricator type,I got lathes and mills and sheetmetal brakes,etc,etc I couldnt find a socket that fit the stock head bolts :oops: I assume I need to order me in a 12 point socket for this? what size are the heads on them head bolts?15mm 12 point?

Thanks guys!
93 d350 extra cab 5 speed dually.

Mods: hx35,rotated fuel pin,bosch 190 inj.,BHAF with smooth intake tube,3200 rpm spring,M&H dynamic timing spacer,isspro EGT and boost gauge,Auto meter tach, fuel press. gauge.Diamond eye 4" exhaust,Sno Stage 2 W/M kit.

Real trucks dont use spark plugs!
rockmike
fuel screw!!!!
 
Posts: 94
Joined: Mon Jan 21, 2013 3:58 pm
Location: Benton City,Wa.
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