Cold weather and IP leaks.

[xohcef]

So last night here in Denver CO it got down to a frigid -10 degrees last night. I have not had any problem with the d350 starting in the cold so didn't think nothing of it this morning when I went out to go start the thing this morning. Well there were no dice when I clicked the key over. Crank, crank, crank, crank. Crank, crank, crank. Several times over and over and over. Well no big deal, borrowed a friends car to get to work this morning and before I left for the short pair of hours, I plugged the block heater in to re-gain some temp in the block. After I clocked off and got home, I checked the radiator hoses and felt around the block to see how she felt. Definitely felt like it was nowhere near the -10 it was this morning so I pop my key in the ignition. Cycle the key on and I was glad to not hear the grid heaters coming on, thinking "it must have some decent temp in it." Crank, crank, crank, crank. Shit. Well I thought that since I did not have too much fuel in the tank maybe it's frozen. I go to check the aeromotive FPR to see what the fuel pressure is and it's still at the 10psi I left it at. Perfect. I then look to the bottom side of the pump and holy moley. I did figure out that I had a governor shaft o-ring leaking about a few weeks ago, didn't think anything of it since it was really small and I definitely want some warmer weather to repair it. Well here comes my problem. The pump has what looks to be a new pair of leaks. Yes, two. BIG ones. One from the seal betwen the H/R and the rest of the pump body and one that I cannot specifically locate. Here's my questions.

1. Has anyone ever had IP leaks that seem like they've stemmed completely from the cold weather?
2. I do have someone that's experienced with helping on the project next weekend but want to know if there is anything to go in assuming or looking for?
3. What all should I replace while I'm in there? Other than my governor shaft seal and the H/R gasket (Any personal experience/suggestions insert here).
4. Are there any IP reseal or rebuild kits that I can buy from cummins that cover the majority of what I may be running into?


Thanks in advance 1stgen.com!!

[Alec]

Both of my trucks' IP's will leak a little when it is really cold -- mostly from the covers on the ends of the advance piston. I've always been a little embarrassed by the condition, actually.

Iguess it's a week late, but my advice would have been: Buy the DGK 121 seal kit from any pump shop and do a web search for VE rebuilds or re-seals.

[xohcef]

This I can say was no little leak. I did have a previous small leak coming out of the front of the pump at the governor shaft though these others stemmed this past weekend were not subtle or small by any means. I could hear the fuel hitting the ground. Anyway I did purchase the re-seal kit through central motive power here in CO and attempted to get the job done but ran into a couple of other snags.

Kit I purchased.


What I found inside. Any ideas as to what have caused this??? Broke the spring in two seperate places.
.

Other pictures

[1990CTD]

I have noticed mine when its cold in the morning it will leak a little drip until warm. Kinda worried me because my previous pump leaked a lot and this one I've only had on for 3 months

[xohcef]

BUMP BUMP BUMP!!! I need help! So my help has been having one hell of a time trying to get my truck going again since the re-seal. We had a total of 8ish hours into installing, uninstalling and tearing into the pump last weekend trying to get it to run. Well today while I was at work he called me and said it runs, sounds great, this that and the next. Well got everything buttoned up and took it for a test drive and turns out it does not run so great. It will not make boost at all. None of the boost pipes got taken off during the re-seal, the turbo/manifold was left untouched and we cannot figure out why it wont make pressure. The shaft spins freely when the intake hose is off, and is nice and tight (no abnormal play). I just dont get it. Smokes a ton like it should be making boost but no dice. Any advice or suggestions?

[xohcef]

Could my broken spring in the above picture or all of the waterfall like leaks be some kind of pre-emptive symptom of a bad pump or what do you guys thing I'm looking at ?

[ellis93]

Did you make sure the afc tube from the head was intact? Could be that or the guide pin that rides the fuel pin is stuck

[RCCUMMINS89]

x2

[PToombs]

Double check the boost tube on the drivers side. They had to remove that to pull the pump. It's a bear to work on with it on there. It may have either been left unhooked or it came off. If you have no boost at all and it smokes like a pig you're not getting any air. Check where it comes off the I/C and make sure it's on good.

[xohcef]

Did you make sure the afc tube from the head was intact? Could be that or the guide pin that rides the fuel pin is stuck

It was never there since I got it 10 months ago. It's been bypassed for who knows how long before that even. Any how I'll check on a possible stuck guide pin. Thanks for the advice.

[xohcef]

Double check the boost tube on the drivers side. They had to remove that to pull the pump. It's a bear to work on with it on there. It may have either been left unhooked or it came off. If you have no boost at all and it smokes like a pig you're not getting any air. Check where it comes off the I/C and make sure it's on good.

I'm positive it never came of I have a tims cooler tubz and it was pretty simple to get around. I'll have to check further into the charge system. Just a bummer it's 40 miles away. Thanks to all, I appreciate the help.

[PToombs]

Oh, I see! I'd still check it, for the reasons I mentioned above. Good luck!

[ellis93]

Did you make sure the afc tube from the head was intact? Could be that or the guide pin that rides the fuel pin is stuck

It was never there since I got it 10 months ago. It's been bypassed for who knows how long before that even. Any how I'll check on a possible stuck guide pin. Thanks for the advice.

Bypassed? that little tube is how the afc works,it supplies the boost to mash the diaphragm,inturn the fuel pin.
If you want to check the guide pin out,take the afc top off,pull the fuel pin out,look in the hole and turn the throttle. That little pin should poke out,when it does you'll have to push It back in.

[RCCUMMINS89]

If it's bypassed, it must have a gutted afc

[xohcef]

I definitely will check into it ptooms, it fits the bill and symptoms are right on spot for that.

While we're on topic, can someone further explain a gutted afc. Forgive my noobness but the past few Weeks have been the first time I've even seen the inside of a VE. I'm still having a hard time understanding what's going on in there.