care and handling of kdp

[Arnold Layne]

I was (and still am) wondering why a person can't smack the edge of the hole the pin lives in, deforming the hole a little so the pin is trapped. Is there some reason that this is unacceptable? And, is there any standard method of marking engines that have been done, like a stamp or greasepaint in one spot, something of that nature? If there isn't it seems to me like there should be. Thanks

[comotionman]

I have a tsb from cummins and it states that peening or knurling are accepted and recommended procedures to capture the dowel in its bore.

I agree that a recognized mark with grease paint would be a good idea. I suggest a simple dot for the kdp and an x for the case bolts marked right on the timing cover. anything would be helpful for future owners to be able to determine the work has been done.

[Arnold Layne]

I got the lug nuts, Thanks! Are there any indicators that someone has been in there other than gratuitous use of silicone? And do you do anything special to the case bolts other than proper torque? Loctite? I 'spose I will have to take a look at mine, would hate to feel the pin's wrath.

[PToombs]

I peened mine over with a punch around the hole in several places. Most people loctite and torque the bolts to prevent them from coming out again.

Marking it somewhere would be a great idea! Too bad lots of trucks have already been done, there's no way to know at this point with out opening it up.

[turboram]

I have a mirror for my bore scope, take off the oil fill and stick it down in there. takes a few minutes and gives piece of mind

[Horus]

I was (and still am) wondering why a person can't smack the edge of the hole the pin lives in, deforming the hole a little so the pin is trapped. Is there some reason that this is unacceptable?

I vote acceptable. My water pump died in the 93 so I took the time to loctite the case bolts and peen the KDP. I am a machinist for a living. The most I could see them letting the tolerance of the pin bore go would be +/- .005. You will mash the aluminum in farther than that with a couple smacks with a punch. Don't go crazy here. It is very easy to smash the aluminum enough that it cracks off. Just deform the aluminum in a couple places with a small flat nose punch and call it good.

That pin just floats in there. Any deforming of the end of it's bore will keep it in place. I cleaned the gear cover and seal in a solvent tank. The seal looked good so I left it there. Just used black rtv around the gear case cover. No leaks yet.

[moose5.9]

Correct me if im wrong, due to only doing a KDP on a 95 p pump, but why not make a metal tab with the mounting bolt near the pin to cover it?