Head is on and torqued.

[mhuppertz]

Had only two screwups (so far). Was using my clutch drill to plug and bottom tap the block holes and got tired, let the tap get angled and snapped it off in the hole! After a lot of prayer and PB Blaster I was able to get the piece out.
The second issue was I hadn't noticed that the front alignment dowel was not in the block until I have the head on and all the the studs and three rocker stands in. The front of the head had motion. I was not happy. The dowel was still in the old head, but hammered flat, so it hadn't attracted my attention. I drove it out with a long 3/8 extension, lifted the front of the head enough to get a screwdriver handle to hold it and my son tried to slip the dowel in there but ended up knocking it down onto the piston.
Had to take everything back off again to do it right, but only cost us about 20 minutes. Wrestling the head off and back on again has made my back a bit sore!

[revemup15]

Shoula painted it

[Tacoclaw]

You should have painted it for him, smart ass.

Glad to see you got it in, my night would have ended in a flurry of alcohol the second the tap snapped off, kudos for fighting through it.

[oldestof11]

Shoula painted it

Do you have ANYTHING constructive to add? Ever?

Looking good Mark. 1 question, who has blue valve stem seals? Mine were orange.

[revemup15]

Shoula painted it

Do you have ANYTHING constructive to add? Ever?

Looking good Mark. 1 question, who has blue valve stem seals? Mine were orange.

Do you?... that head in a couple months is gonna look like a pile of garbage if you dont slap a coat or 2 on it

[AHineman]

Looks good. What did you torque it to? Arp says 125 ft lbs, but mine are doing fine at 145.

[mhuppertz]

I didn't paint it because it is covered in shipping oil and I would have had to take it apart and have it hot tanked to get it all off. I live in a dry place so it will hold up fine for quite while.

On the ARP's, I torqued them to spec at 125. Should I go higher? Going to need a 6' cheater to go any further!

In a little while I am going to start cleaning injector lines and trying to figure out how they go back together. Then bolt on all the crap like sensors, toaster, intake plate, etc., then adjust the valves and then light six candles!

[Luther Grimace]

Looks awesome. Did you o ring the head too? I saw where you got studs.

[mhuppertz]

O-rings will have to wait until better times. I figure at 40psi (maybe 50 with water meth) I should be OK with just the studs.

[dazedandconfused]

Just make sure to do a few retorques after a couple heat cycles and some miles.

[AHineman]

Anything over what they tell you is at your own risk...and I wouldn't go 145 without o rings myself. They say o rings need a little extra, but I've only messed with mine so...

[RCCUMMINS89]

Looks good. What did you torque it to? Arp says 125 ft lbs, but mine are doing fine at 145.

Yep, my headgasket leaked at 125, now they are at 135.

[mhuppertz]

Looks good. What did you torque it to? Arp says 125 ft lbs, but mine are doing fine at 145.

Yep, my headgasket leaked at 125, now they are at 135.

Is your head o-ringed? Also, how did you prep the head and block surface?

[PToombs]

I studded and o-ringed mine. I can't remember if I torqued them to 125 or 135. I think 125. I ran it back and forth to work for a week, a little over 100 miles, then retorqued it. No problems,and I run it hard sometimes. I also try not to pound the snot out of it when it's cold anymore. (notice I said try? )

[bmoeller]

who has blue valve stem seals? Mine were orange.

Those come in the Cummins upper end gasket set. Supposed to be the latest and greatest. They are a PITA to put in! The old style works fine. Get those if you can. Those slip right on.