Head is on and torqued.

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Re: Head is on and torqued.

Postby RCCUMMINS89 » Sun Mar 03, 2013 4:09 pm

mhuppertz wrote:
RCCUMMINS89 wrote:
AHineman wrote:Looks good. What did you torque it to? Arp says 125 ft lbs, but mine are doing fine at 145.

Yep, my headgasket leaked at 125, now they are at 135.


Is your head o-ringed? Also, how did you prep the head and block surface?



Mine's o ringed.... I was told by an engine builder to wire wheel it gently, so I did and it seems to have worked.
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Re: Head is on and torqued.

Postby mhuppertz » Sun Mar 03, 2013 4:40 pm

I think this head came with heavier exhaust springs also. I could just barely push them down compared to the intakes.
I think I got a good head!
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Re: Head is on and torqued.

Postby bmoeller » Sun Mar 03, 2013 5:20 pm

Ya, it looks like 60 pounders on the exhaust. :)
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SOLD- '92 W250, CTD, ext cab, 5spd

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Traded off- '97 3500 CTD, 416hp/892tq.

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Re: Head is on and torqued.

Postby BC847 » Sun Mar 03, 2013 6:26 pm

FWIW: I set mine at 135ft/lbs cold. I first bring them up to 120ft/lbs the traditional way, and from there, using a digital torque-wrench go up in 5lb increments, 30 minutes in between round. You'll definitely need to use the ARP Monkey-Snot to lube things.

The trick is to hold the torque on the wrench steadily. The wrench will come around slowly as the gasket compresses and the studs stretch. With my mess, the long studs will pull around almost a full quarter-turn with a minute or so pull.

The above means you'll eventually be pulling the wrench with the indicated torque, and holding it for perhaps thirty seconds (or more) to ensure the correct final torque value. . . . . . with each round of pulls!

Eat your spinach! :shock:

As such, I've been able to take my mess out and beat the ever-loving snot out of it pretty-much right away (go through a couple of heat-cycles and readjust the valves. Then hit it).
David

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Re: Head is on and torqued.

Postby mhuppertz » Mon Mar 04, 2013 9:40 am

Didn't quite get it done. The boost tube was cracked so I have to make a new one using steel brake line, a flaring tool and by drilling the banjo fitting out with a bit one number higher than the OD of the line. Also couldn't use the angle fitting in the head because hits the pump when trying to turn it... shoulda put it on before I put the head on! To get around that I used a 1/4" compression fitting with pipe thread in the head side and drilled it out. Then I flanged the tubing and it worked great.
Took apart the injectors and cleaned them, smeared then with copper anti seize and installed with the standard crush washers since I forgot to get the thin ones...
Still have the injector line snake den to deal with, and valve adjustment and a few sensors. Try to get more done after work.
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Re: Head is on and torqued.

Postby mhuppertz » Tue Mar 05, 2013 8:36 pm

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Re: Head is on and torqued.

Postby lopez dodge » Wed Mar 06, 2013 7:49 am

glad to hear it's all back together. you will be terrorizing abq. again in no time.
1991.5 ..getrag super40. 40,horse injectors,4"to 6" exhaust , bhaf 2nd gen intake,custom pin timed to the head ..1/4 14.9@93mph 5,500' with a little propane
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Re: Head is on and torqued.

Postby mhuppertz » Wed Mar 06, 2013 9:10 am

lopez dodge wrote:glad to hear it's all back together. you will be terrorizing abq. again in no time.


You got that right. I have left a bad taste in the tuner communities mouth in the Q, and I want to continue doing that! :twisted:
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