lifted the head, what to do...

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lifted the head, what to do...

Postby DTanklage » Sun Jan 13, 2008 12:30 am

stock bolts n gskt couldnt handle the dense air created by the water

which way would you go if it were yours?

never gonna see 500 hp

don

ps - i am thinking about trying either the cometic and leaving the bolts alone

or basic 12mm studs and o-ring with stock gskt
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Postby CumminsPride » Sun Jan 13, 2008 5:37 am

12mm studs and o-rings

Wade
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Postby BC847 » Sun Jan 13, 2008 6:56 am

12mm studs, O-rings, and .010" stock gasket is what I'm doing. ;)
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Postby Fnschlaud4620 » Sun Jan 13, 2008 10:04 am

I will be using studs and a O-ring job on mine. For the longest time I thought that fire ringing was the way to go, but now I am convinced that O-rings are better because they provide a fuse to blow so something more expensive doesn't get hurt.

It is important on an O-ring job to have proper protrusion of the wire. It should be .008-.010 to press into the gasket properly. I have heard of O-ring jobs being done just using stock head bolts.


just my .02
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Postby DTanklage » Sun Jan 13, 2008 10:48 am

thnx

has anyone experimented with the stock bolts to see where they break?

you know, keep increasing 10# at a time and get an avg

???
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Postby ford69557ci » Sun Jan 13, 2008 11:40 am

i snapped my stockers at 145 ftlb. i have a flatout rcc copper gasket that i am goin to try with the 14mm studs. i have a friend that runs the flatout coppers on his turbo bbc and never has a problem and he even reuses them inbetween tear downs. you should see how bad my gasket went it actually blew it out between the block and head makes a nasty sound when it fires up lol :bh:
92 w250, NV4500, D80, maxed pump, AFC gone, extended fuel screw, more to come.
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Postby DTanklage » Sun Jan 13, 2008 1:44 pm

well i aint pullin the motor just to put over size threads in the block so 14mm is out

i run the solid copper cometic's on my bike

heat em with rose bud torch, dip in trash can full a water, flip em and good to go

got all sorts of tricks to seal water and or oil passages too

anyone ever experiment with yamabond #4?

great stuff, i use it a lot

wonder how much boost/heat solid copper w/ o-ringed block and stock bolts torqued to say 130# would hold?

know a guy that has a machine that will cut the groove with motor assembled and in truck

how much water were you putting to yours aaron?
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Postby ford69557ci » Sun Jan 13, 2008 1:55 pm

well i wasnt on any water just 60psi on the bottle and then a got a loud pop and a nasty coolant leak lol. i have th engine out now so i can get to work. i am goin to try and have everything engine wise done so that when i figure out my ip seal problem all i gotta do is swap pump and sticks and make some retarded power or blow up which ever comes first
92 w250, NV4500, D80, maxed pump, AFC gone, extended fuel screw, more to come.
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Postby DTanklage » Sun Jan 13, 2008 4:24 pm

i thought yours was non ic and had to have water?

or does the nitrous work like water?

kinda?

lol
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Postby ford69557ci » Sun Jan 13, 2008 4:27 pm

i usually run it when the egt gets around 1400 and on the bottle it was only pullin 1500 so i left the water off
92 w250, NV4500, D80, maxed pump, AFC gone, extended fuel screw, more to come.
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Postby DTanklage » Mon Jan 14, 2008 9:00 am

dang, we both got same inj and mine with no nos wont go over 1500 (empty on flat ground, right?)

is your ve putting out that much more fuel than mine?
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Postby bgilbert » Mon Jan 14, 2008 10:54 am

Next one I do will be fire ringed with stock headbolts @ 120ftlbs.
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Postby Underpsi » Mon Jan 14, 2008 3:43 pm

why do you want to use stock head bolts? Just to save the $450 or so?
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Postby DTanklage » Tue Jan 15, 2008 3:10 am

my gskt was not really hurt at all

the additional density musta justa lifted the head for a split sec and blew some water into the push rod holes

why are the holes so restricted in the gskt?????

(the water passage holes)

???????

in the late 70's mopar started doing that to the motor home wedge motors

we always opened them up and they ran cooler

what happens if ya open these up???

anyone try it???

in the motorhome blocks the passages were hour glass shaped but the gskt had a small 1/8" wide oval passage

this thing has pin holes

i take it the factory wants to slow the water down as it goes by the hottest part of the unit

i wonder if you want that when you double or trip power output?

don
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Postby Cschafer » Tue Jan 15, 2008 11:33 am

There were severel guy's running 60 to 70 psi of boost before studs were really around. Single o-ring and stock head bolts to 120 is my plan. For reference my parts truck had single o-ring in the block with stock head bolts. It lasted over a year running 90 psi through a non gated hx-35-12 and ht3b combo. I don't even want to know what the drive pressure was.
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