Blue smoke ?

[RCCUMMINS89]

Ya, I'm getting lazy with my responses. I'm having a burned out week, LOL.

Did actually work on my truck though today

[Black93]

#1 injector came out with the nut. I've been messing with it for the past hour and a half and the nut is not coming off the injector. It has soaked in PB for about a day, I've done everything that I know to do to free it up. I even resorted to heating the nut and quenching it in oil a few times. #4 is still in the head and it wants to do the same thing, I've soaked it in PB several times in the past two days and worked it back and forth, no dice. Damn my luck.

[Black93]

#4 finally gave up and came out.

[Tacoclaw]

Those are some monstrous injector washers you've got there.

Is the nut spinning on that #1? Otherwise I don't see how it came out, those little bearings are supposed to sit in a slot down in a hole. Any chance that injector turned in its hole and was spraying funny into the bowl?

If it's really stuck you'll have to heat it up cherry red and turn it off while it's still red. Quenching it will shrink it right back onto the injector body and stick it again.

[Black93]

I've had luck in the past with heating something up then dipping it in oil (repeat several times), somehow it seems to pull the oil into it and help break it loose. I don't guess quench was the right word, it doesn't really cool it off instantly like water does.

The nut won't budge on #1. The ball spun with the injector and came out when I pulled the injector out and of course it fell into the injector bore and right into the cylinder. It was fun trying to fish that out.

I'm pretty sure this is the first time they have ever been out. That's probably $.25 worth of copper right there.

[RCCUMMINS89]

The ball fell off and into the cylinder? Wow, that would of sucked. Glad you were able to get it out.

[Black93]

I had a MacGyver moment , a small piece of soft alum. rod, a small magnet, and some superglue, finally got it. None of my magnetic pickups were small enough to go through the nozzle hole.

I put it back together yesterday evening, started it up and it ran smooth. When I popped the throttle it would puff a little black smoke like normal, but when I held it at say 1500 rpm or just a steady throttle it was still blue smoking some. I let it sit and idle for about 20 minutes and it eventually cleared up and stopped smoking. This morning I had to crank it over twice and it hazed pretty good (never done that before) for about a minute or so and then cleared up. I drove it and it seemed to run fine, like it always has. I think I still want a new set of injectors though, when money permits.

[RCCUMMINS89]

When the time comes hit me up............ we'll see what we can get you into.

For a comparable to stock size but with a little more would be a 5x11 SAC............ Runs $425 (plus cores), after that we start seeing the price go up. Or one could run a "215" tip injector for $375 (plus cores)

To give you an example on where that falls........... our factory i/c injectors flow 40lpm, a "215" tip flows 42lpm which is a 5x10.5, and then the 5x11 SAC would be about 44-45.

[BobS]

Sorta late but;
The injector has 2 flat spots on it for a wrench. You hold the injector in place with a wrench.
You heat the retaining nut and get it warm enough to melt candle wax that will work its way into the threads. Get somebody to help by holding the injector wrench. Using a 2# or 3# brass hammer or a composite hammer you bump lightly the injector retaining nut wrench towards the TIGHTEN direction. Then bump it back towards the loosen direction and apply more wax. Repeat the process a few times and you will feel the retaining nut loosen up.

Spinning the injector in the bore destroys the indexing detent milled in the injector bore. This destroys any future accurate injector position replacement. IIRC, Cummins considers a cylinder head with a spun injector bore as scrap.

[PToombs]

Bob, how does dripping the wax on the threads help free the nut from the injector?

[ellis93]

Bob, how does dripping the wax on the threads help free the nut from the injector?

I've heard of folks using beeswax,its suppose to creep in like a penetrating fluid. Never used it or seen it used,talked to a bunch of old timers that swear by it tho

[Black93]

I put that #1 injector back in without the ball, it lined back up with the return line perfectly. Even with this injector out of the truck, it was an absolute PITA to get the nut loose on it. When I do the headgasket, I'm gonna get a new head anyway, so no biggie with this one being a little fubared.

I put about 20 miles on it today and all seems well. I've got a 120 or so mile round trip in the morning, that should tell me a little more.

RC, I'll let you know about the injectors.

[Rob_O]

To give you an example on where that falls........... our factory i/c injectors flow 40lpm, a "215" tip flows 42lpm which is a 5x10.5, and then the 5x11 SAC would be about 44-45.

What do the non i/c injectors flow?

[RCCUMMINS89]

45lpm................so I was told once. Doesn't necessarily mean the brain was in the right spot though at the time.......... LOL............because in my head they SHOULD flow about 50lpm

The other information is from experience.

[BobS]

Bob, how does dripping the wax on the threads help free the nut from the injector?

I've heard of folks using beeswax,its suppose to creep in like a penetrating fluid. Never used it or seen it used,talked to a bunch of old timers that swear by it tho

Correct! The wax creeps in and it doesn't evaporate like penetrating oil under low heat. Paraffin wax will work. Beeswax these days is more difficult to locate, at least in my part of the world. I had to mail order the last batch of beeswax I bought earlier this year.

Also, the injector will line up with the injector line in any improper position. As i understand it the detent index supposedly is for the injector spray pattern position.