Diesel Power Magazine 1st gen buildup

How to make it go fast

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spring install

Postby seeker1056 » Wed Jan 23, 2008 2:21 pm

its even simpler than this which I have detailed a time or two already

Use a hex head key with the ball socket end - you dont have to move the pump away from the motor that way.

Undo all of the linkages as per instructions but removin the throttle shaft isnt necessary.

Do keep an eye on the marks tho for reassembly.


Next tip the top cover over slightly - and push the top hat assembly thru the slot in the arm so the spring hook is in the slot in the arm and lift straight up

That frees the top from the pump

Now take the top hat off the spring, replace the spring - replace the top hat onto the spring - then flip the entire assembly over and slide the top hat spring assembly down the slot in reverse of removal, and pull the hat straight back on he spring to seat the hat

Then make sure the fuel mechanism is full forward and set the top down and bolt it back up

You will note i didnt talk about removin the fuel screw either - not necessary. Although if you havnt modded it yet for adjustment now was the time to do it when it is easy to get at

the other neat thing is to take the low idle screw out and reverse it so that it can be adjusted from the front of the pump so you dont have to stand on your head and hold yur tongue just right every time you wish to adjust the idle speed. This requires shortening the adjustment screw about an inch as it is too long to just reinstal from the front

While your at it remove entirely the high idle screw and throw it away.

Take your linkage pin and place it in the hole in the throttle arm closest to the pump so that you have much more throttle travel, and last but not least make sure you adjust the linkage properly for the over centre spring on the throttle arm. Or you can do as I did and build a bracket that bolts to the arm and places the throttle linkage in a better arc of travel and promiotes full arm travel

These mods will allow you about 3600 rpm on a 3200 rpm spring

So far i havnt needed valve springs for valve float

I am sure i forgot some other small things I have learned but I am sure the other guis will chime in
91 F350 5.9 Cummins, Custom built VE 12v

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Postby cummins king » Wed Jan 23, 2008 4:26 pm

ya its that easy dt im telling you after your irst time it would take 10 minuts or less and defently do it the way DT says pull the trotle pin trough
93 4X4 auto
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Postby DTanklage » Wed Jan 23, 2008 4:37 pm

pull throttle pin thru the bottom - its just too easy that way

throw away BOTH high and low idle screws (i did)

you dont have to build a bracket - just notch the inside hole so it is even closer to the centerline of the throttle shaft

my pump is almost against the head and i have never moved it

having good tools makes every job easier

if you dont have a set of ball allens now would be a good time to pick some up
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Postby DTanklage » Wed Jan 23, 2008 4:39 pm

Image

not a whole lot left of the lever
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Postby DTanklage » Wed Jan 23, 2008 4:41 pm

Image
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Postby seeker1056 » Thu Jan 24, 2008 6:19 am

Nice work boots!!!!!!!!

Man your brave workin around heavy stuff, and all that on the floor!
91 F350 5.9 Cummins, Custom built VE 12v

Sponsors of new truck

Performance Diesel Injection
Colt Cams
H&H Offroad
Arties Transmission
Toms Contracting
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Postby DTanklage » Thu Jan 24, 2008 8:57 am

lol

ya like that huh?

well....you live in canada

i live in huntington beach

property is a little pricey here

i gotta make do with the little space i can afford (barely afford)

don

ps - bright side is yes, i can work in thongs if i wanna

and the scenery is unbelivable
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Postby Begle1 » Thu Jan 24, 2008 1:38 pm

Why is there a bolt sticking out of your AFC?
1990 D-250 Regular Cab: Tweaked injection pump, built transmission, a cataclysmic charlie foxtrot of electronics, the most intense street-ran water injection system in the country, and some more unique stuff.
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Postby SChandler » Thu Jan 24, 2008 1:50 pm

Begle1 wrote:Why is there a bolt sticking out of your AFC?


Looks to me like a replacement smoke screw - say goodbye to Torx head bits!
1992 W250, 300k, Getrag, BHAF, 4" exhaust, DDP fuel pin, Isspro gauges, +3 on the fuel screw, 3200rpm gov. spring, 16cm^2 housing
http://s230.photobucket.com/albums/ee261/dieselsam250/
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Postby Begle1 » Thu Jan 24, 2008 1:54 pm

SChandler wrote:
Begle1 wrote:Why is there a bolt sticking out of your AFC?


Looks to me like a replacement smoke screw - say goodbye to Torx head bits!


Don doesn't really strike me as the kind of guy to worry about the AFC enough to replace something, though...
1990 D-250 Regular Cab: Tweaked injection pump, built transmission, a cataclysmic charlie foxtrot of electronics, the most intense street-ran water injection system in the country, and some more unique stuff.
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Postby SChandler » Thu Jan 24, 2008 3:20 pm

Yeah, I know, but that's what it looks like to me.
1992 W250, 300k, Getrag, BHAF, 4" exhaust, DDP fuel pin, Isspro gauges, +3 on the fuel screw, 3200rpm gov. spring, 16cm^2 housing
http://s230.photobucket.com/albums/ee261/dieselsam250/
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Postby DTanklage » Thu Jan 24, 2008 5:03 pm

it is just what it looks like it is - a longer bolt

lol

that was back when i was playin around with the afc

if i wanted full fuel off idle i could just screw the bolt in until the fuel cone was all the way down

tested it like that, then removed the lever entirely

removing it makes a big difference

and that is going from a fully ground cone to no afc

big difference

i love it
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Postby cummins king » Thu Jan 24, 2008 9:11 pm

lots of bottom end smoke too
93 4X4 auto
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Postby SChandler » Thu Jan 31, 2008 7:39 pm

I just got the new Diesel Power and I think you guys did a good job with the write up of the injection pump tweaks you made. Only thing I'd suggest would be to actually pull the fuel pin and verify it's set to its deepest spot. There's no guarantee that turning it 90* gets it there. Good job, looking forward to the next installment.
1992 W250, 300k, Getrag, BHAF, 4" exhaust, DDP fuel pin, Isspro gauges, +3 on the fuel screw, 3200rpm gov. spring, 16cm^2 housing
http://s230.photobucket.com/albums/ee261/dieselsam250/
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Postby JQmile » Thu Jan 31, 2008 9:36 pm

Thanks...yeah I thought of that too....after I wrote the article :lol:

I tried to describe it so people could verify it if they wanted to, I think it was kinda weird that we got a pretty linear power increase...each turn was worth about 15hp on the dyno......except for the last turn where where we got zero (??) need more air ;)
1989 D250 2wd. Scheid 14mm VE pump and 5x25's, J&H Performance 47RH trans with Suncoast manual valvebody, dual wastegates, 62/65/14 S300, NX Dual Stage nitrous, 487 on fuel, 972 on the jug.
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