Any one know Briggs and Stratton engines?

[cmann250]

Ok, this is as close to a venting thread as I'm going to get.

I'm working on a late 70's to early 80's era garden tiller. It does not belong to me. It spun a crank, threw a rod, and broke the cam. A physically similar 8hp 318cc engine was purchased and dumped in my lap. Parts are fairly interchangeable, so I thought.

Strike one- the new engine had a 1" shaft and the old one had a 3/4" shaft. No big deal, I have friends with mills and lathes.

Strike two- the old electric start flywheel had to be used on the new engine. This is a problem because the key and crank throw don't line up.

This is why I don't like working on other people's stuff. If it were my tiller, I'd have just bought the right replacement engine

[ellis93]

Ok, this is as close to a venting thread as I'm going to get.

Strike two- the old electric start flywheel had to be used on the new engine. This is a problem because the key and crank throw don't line up.:

Such a powerful vent,much passion being released

And why would you need to change the flywheels?

[cmann250]

The owner wants to keep electric start

Now I'm positive that it's sparking at the bottom instead of the top. Pretty hard to get it to run that way.

[ellis93]

Any chance that there are other bosses for the coil cast into the block?

[dazedandconfused]

See I would assemble it without electric star and tell him to deal with it or buy the correct engine.

[cmann250]

Any chance that there are other bosses for the coil cast into the block?

No it's one of those that has a magnet surrounded by cast aluminum with fins.

I'm about to say, "Up a rope you can piss."

[Tacoclaw]

You could have a keyway cut 180* on that flywheel, shouldn't be too expensive at a machine shop.

Ooooooor you could space the pickup away from the wheel, knock the old magnet out, and put a little, stick on magnet 180* from the old place. Only problem I see there is poriental unbalance...

[cmann250]

You could have a keyway cut 180* on that flywheel, shouldn't be too expensive at a machine shop.

I am going to put a new keyway in the crank. I'm not putting one red cent into this goat rodeo since I'm not even being compensated for this fuster cluck.

[PToombs]

If that's the case I'd tell him to buy the right one or pound salt. No reason you should have to spend your valuable time for free trying to cob up some POS.

[Tacoclaw]

Do you have access to a lathe, Caleb? It's kinda ghetto, but we cut a lot of keyways by mounting the piece, locking the chuck, then rolling the bed back and forth with a boring bar mounted in it. We use a HSS cutter, ground in the same shape and dimension as the key. Just take little nibbles and bring the cutter out bit by bit and making the cuts by hand.

It's ghetto, but it works and only takes very basic tools to do it.

[cmann250]

I already milled a key way in the output side of the crank. I'll likely do the same to the flywheel side.

[Tacoclaw]

Yeah, if you have access to a good mill you've got it made.

[cmann250]

So I neglected to look closely at the flywheel. For some reason it broke the key and spun around 180*. So the crank throw and key way line up, but now I have to figure out why the key broke.

The silly things you over look when you work for free on stuff in the dark after school, after work

[PToombs]

If it backfired there's a good chance that's when it sheared the key. Seen it many times.

[DodgeFreak]

that and I've seen if the flywheel has been apart and didn't get torqued down or the nut came loose it will sheer....shear....shear??? anyways I thought it was strange that the flywheels didn't match up but wasn't sure the year spread you was working with. Also if your dealing with points all you need it a electronic coil to convert it to electronic ignition. At least with my snowblower that's all I had to do.