Delete fuel heater and add fuel pressure port with one part.

[ByronRACE]

I decided to build myself a fuel heater delete puck with a fuel pressure gauge port on it.

It uses a standard fuel filter o-ring and is made of 6061 AL.

I like the result, so I thought I'd show it.

[RCCUMMINS89]

[Tacoclaw]

Nice! You could even use the stock filter nipple and just adjust the thickness of the piece to accommodate.


Nice work, man.

[ByronRACE]

Nice! You could even use the stock filter nipple and just adjust the thickness of the piece to accommodate.
Nice work, man.

That's exactly what I did. The nipple is stock. The ID of my puck mates with the OD of the nipple in the same manner as the fuel heater to keep the assembly centered. The over-all thickness of this part (including o-rings) is essentially the same as the fuel heater. I made it .015" thicker over-all because the fuel filter o-ring is thicker and compresses more than the thin o-ring on the heater assembly I checked o-ring seat on the nipple to the filter by removing the fuel filter o-ring and putting it together to see how much crush there has to be to make that seat and then checked it again once the o-ring was in place and I gave the filter the customary 3/4 turn after seating. Everything should be sealing up great.

The nice part is when you change your fuel filter, it is loose...so you just inspect/replace the o-ring with the one on the filter you're about to throw away, slap a new filter on, and go. You don't have to wrestle with removing the nipple to check the fuel heater o-ring, nor do you have to source that special o-ring.

I'm not sure there's any real advantage to this approach other than it's one part and gets rid of fuel heater leaks as well as gives you a FP port. An aftermarket bung and aftermarket tapped fuel bolt is just as good and eliminates one o-ring. It's just a different approach...

[BC847]

Neat!

[ByronRACE]

Thanks guys, let's hope this stops my mystery "only at speed" fuel leak. It has been very elusive.

I'd go test drive it right now, but I don't have a front axle in there. I figured out why my stepvan/rv was crabbing down the road...the center pins in the leaf spring packs are not long enough to engage the axles and the entire front axle shifted...isn't that special. I made new center pins with longer heads and am now waiting for my U-bolts to arrive mail order. The local boys wanted $80 for a set of U-Bolts. Rockauto; $26 delivered.

[RCCUMMINS89]

let's hope this stops my mystery "only at speed" fuel leak.

Have you checked in your fuel pin area for fuel.... Usually the only at speed leaks come from a leaky fuel pin o ring.

[ByronRACE]

Thank you for the suggestion. This leak wets the center of the block on the drivers side. The injection pump area is dry. My guess was that the fuel heater or filter o-ring was occasionally squirting/misting fuel. Since both of those have now been addressed, I guess we'll find out shortly. It doesn't leak at idle or if you rev it in neutral. The only time it leaks is if you drive it down the road for a half hour. Fun.

[cmann250]

Is the spot higher or lower on the block? If I recall correctly, a return line runs up high close to the head.

[ByronRACE]

Is the spot higher or lower on the block? If I recall correctly, a return line runs up high close to the head.

It starts up high then runs down the block. I have not removed that return line to check for holes. Is that common?