Cranks,won't start until I prime+bleed.Shutoff solenoid died

[monoblock]

1993 turbo,49,000 miles. Yup only 49k!
The Dealer gave up replacing defective fuel shut-off solenoids after the 3rd one failed. He installed a manual shut off rod through the front grille.This happened years ago and all was well until recently.Recently when I turn the key off the engine also turns off-just like it is supposed to! The old solenoid is still fitted and electrically connected.
The 'normal' routine is :
1.turn the key off,
2.run round to the front of the truck ,push the lever in to turn off the engine.
Today it won't re-start unless firstI bleed the injectors and prime(Oh ,I do so love our simple diesel !). It works like a charm every time & the truck runs great but this bleed+prime routine every time I want to start the truck is a little impractical !
So,please tell me what I need to replace?
A new shut of solenoid? Or just remove the old one and do what with the electrical?
A new lift pump?
A new fuel filter?
All of the above?
Grateful for any advice and if you need pics ,please suggest and I'll gladly post them.
BTW I converted the truck to a dump-truck and had just got back with 1/2 ton+ of rock so I was very lucky it misbehaved in my driveway and not in the quarry!

[Tacoclaw]

Sounds like an air leak, could be anywhere along the fuel lines. I'd assume it's the lines at the too of the tank.

[RCCUMMINS89]

FSS would be the cause of not shutting off (I believe you knew that though).

As far as not starting... something, somewhere is allowing air in the system. Check for fuel leaks around the fuel filter and associating fittings/lines. After that... I would check for cracks in the fuel lines from the tank to the lift pump. Oh, bad lift pumps can leak and suck air as well.

[monoblock]

Thank you for the suggestion about air leaks into the fuel system. I'll start checking at first light in the morning.
I am thinking that if there is an air leak like a split hose ,there may be an associated fuel leak in the same location.I don't understand why it would still run (after bleeding) with an air leak in the fuel system.Perhaps a slight leak is insufficient to cause symptoms running -just when starting.
Thanks for these any any other suggestions and any education on the diagnosis+repair required.

[RCCUMMINS89]

Tank to lift pump won't always leak fuel, and in fact usually won't while it is running.

Also, a lot of times fuel leaks around the filter aren't very noticeable.

[monoblock]

In case others have this problem, I found some useful specific info using the "Search" .It seems that others have had this issue with no visible fuel leaks so they needlessly replaced transfer pump,fuel filter and other items. So look very carefully with a bright light for pinholes-particularly rust holes.It is great that this Forum can help with pin-point diagnosis like this.

[monoblock]

fuel tank top.jpg

No start yet but I can pass on a few hints:
1. Carry an 11/16" flare wrench in the glove box. That is the size to bleed the injectors.
2.Mine is a dump body so it is easy to expose the fuel tank and fittings on top.The huge ring on top of the tank was loose.It took almost a full turn to hand tighten it.
3.Inspecting along the fuel flow & return lines I found no obvious signs of damage or leaks. I'll try using low pressure air from the compressor to slightly pressurize the flow line to inspect/listen for leaks.Is this a reasonable test?

[RumbleFish]

That dump thingy looks cool. Got pics?

[monoblock]

The dump kit was a disaster.I ended up redesigning and remaking most of it! My version really works well! Vendor is clueless -Pierce Sales. Avoid at all costs!
Back to the other pump.The lift pump.

So the fuel lines are fine, the filter doesn't leak ,I've drained a bit out of the filter- not much there !I'll replace the filter as part of this project anyway.
So I am suspecting the lift pump a.k.a. Transfer pump(?)
I like the Hungry diesel upgrade kit to a piston pump with higher volume. But.......
1. Do I need to use a genuine Cummins pump # 4933714 and not the marginal(??) Delphi HFP702. ??? Which pump does Hungry Diesel use?It isn't clear to me.Should I care?
Please tell me so I don't waste time & money on the wrong parts.
2.the older Cummins part numbers like : 3936320 - are they just as good as the latest? And then there is the Made in China version!
I think I would rather have an NOS Made in USA pump!Some are only $70.
This is so confusing.
Guidance much appreciated!

[RCCUMMINS89]

Our lift pump uses Cummins p/n 4988747.... this p/n is for the high pressure, 2nd gen pump. WE THEN LOWER THE PRESSURE so that it can be ran on the ve, at 15 or 18 psi (pick the 15 psi pump).

We do this because that particular pump has a larger plunger in it and thus, moves more fuel.

The kit comes with everything you need to install.


Lastly, we use genuine Cummins pumps. They are now made in China... HOWEVER, to date we have not had a single warranty claim with the Cummins pumps.

[monoblock]

RC -Thank you for your informative reply. I hope you were not offended by my question. I had seen on other sites that an unscrupulous vendor showed a photo of the kit with lots of Cummins labels on the minor parts but a plain wrapper on the pump.Then the unfortunate buyer discovers a Delphi pump,not a Cummins.
I like your mod to give high volume, not high pressure.If you say the Made in China pump is fine, that's good enough for me.

dump truck in action Oct 2013_1.jpg

[PToombs]

The Case -6320 part number is obsolete, and the replacement is almost $300. That killed that option for most of us. Buy from Eric, he knows and backs up his products, seen it several times on here.

[monoblock]

Thanks for your recommendation Pete.
As part of the plan to improve reliability I am removing the fuel heater & fitting a new fuel filter. I was hoping to get the M16 1.5 close nipple from Hungry D also. But the only place I can find the heater delete nipple is Genos.

[RCCUMMINS89]

I can get you any Cummins part. Just because it hasn't made it on the site yet, doesn't mean we don't carry it.

[monoblock]

I love it - the secret 1st Gen.org handshake parts list on Hungry Diesel!
I sent you a PM with this idea this morning so let's do the sordid commercial deal off line so the Moderator doesn't ding us?
I love doing all that "while you are in there" work - so I don't have a break down in a rock quarry when it is 100 degrees and no shade for miles!
I did the due diligence thing & checked that the 'straw' was still attached in the fuel tank. One advantage of a dump is that access to the top of the tank is a breeze! I was surprised to see a decal on the fuel tank sender saying "Carter" .
Oh in addition to the 11/16" wrench I mentioned , you also nee a 22mm socket and ratchet to fit the alternator nut - so you can rotate the engine(anticlockwise on the alternator nut) off the cam - so you can prime the pump with the lever. I hope I don't miss that lever on the new piston pump!