Cranks,won't start until I prime+bleed.Shutoff solenoid died

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Re: Cranks,won't start until I prime+bleed.Shutoff solenoid died

Postby DodgeFreak » Tue May 27, 2014 7:44 pm

the piston pumps still have a primer only its a plunger style instead of a lever.
92 D350 Cab and Chassis. Auto stock, wiring gremlins. 330k miles
92 W250 Ext cab rotted completely out. Auto, pump maxed, 215 ppump nozzles, Denny T2 pin.
85 D350 single wheel, converted to cummins, getrag, turned up 2 turns and afc screw flush.
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Re: Cranks,won't start until I prime+bleed.Shutoff solenoid died

Postby RCCUMMINS89 » Tue May 27, 2014 8:02 pm

You don't need the cam in a certain spot on the piston style pumps.
89 RC on shortened 92 diesel frame - NV4500 w/dual disc/4.10s on 37s. - Self built pump, "hot screw", lots of timing, True high volume low pressure lift pump, 62fmw/68/.7gated, 77lpm SAC Inj., Studs/O-rings,- 423/1220 Mustang - 11/16/2013 http://www.TheHungryDiesel.com full line dealer, if you don't see it please ask.
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Re: Cranks,won't start until I prime+bleed.Shutoff solenoid died

Postby monoblock » Wed May 28, 2014 8:19 pm

dodge fuel pump.jpg
Preparing for the new pump from Hungry Diesel -Thought I should mention a couple of helpful things to those who follow:
1.Darn thing is metric -the bolts into the block are 10mm
2.the fuel line connections from the old pump to the filter are metric - so if you don't have them, time to buy a set of metric flare wrenches.17mm, +13or14mm.
3. the quick fit connectors are not so quick to remove.You need to manipulate two screwdrivers and simultaneously twist slightly ,jog and pull.A simpler alternative is shown in the photo.Make sure the zip tie is a small one and it is exactly over the 'ears'.Sinch it up tight and gently wiggle it off.That way you won't break any parts,your expensive fingernails or skin!
4.The photo shows how far the primer lever can be rotated if the cam is in the correct position.
5.My pump is in perfect condition(49,000miles only) and wow, that primer lever produces a huge jet of fuel when operated at full travel!
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Re: Cranks,won't start until I prime+bleed.Shutoff solenoid died

Postby RCCUMMINS89 » Wed May 28, 2014 8:27 pm

Just for future reference, everything on the truck is metric.... except the actual "Dodge" stuff.
89 RC on shortened 92 diesel frame - NV4500 w/dual disc/4.10s on 37s. - Self built pump, "hot screw", lots of timing, True high volume low pressure lift pump, 62fmw/68/.7gated, 77lpm SAC Inj., Studs/O-rings,- 423/1220 Mustang - 11/16/2013 http://www.TheHungryDiesel.com full line dealer, if you don't see it please ask.
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Re: Cranks,won't start until I prime+bleed.Shutoff solenoid died

Postby monoblock » Thu May 29, 2014 10:01 am

Thanks RC
I'm not the only one to get confused.I read elsewhere about using a 15/16 wrench to remove the FSS.It must be 24mm?
So I am still suspecting the troublesome FSS and will remove,gut & replace since I use a shut off rod through the grille anyway.
I got very confused about the KSB vs. the FSS. I understand Fuel Shut off Solenoid ,but KSB ?????
It turns out they muddle wrench sizes and languages -but I speak some tech-German also so figured it out.KSB is German ,not English!
KSB is 'Kaltstartbeschleuniger' Of course. It means cold start device.
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Re: Cranks,won't start until I prime+bleed.Shutoff solenoid died

Postby CumminsPower59 » Thu May 29, 2014 10:09 am

You are right about the KSB for cold start. On your IC equipped truck, it gets power to advance the timing during cooler temps then once the intake temp sensor reads warmer intake air, it returns the advance to normal....or so I understand.
Ike

91 W350 SRW, 3.07's, NV4500, 370's, THD LPPP, Super HX40, 2nd gen IC swap, BHAF, Isspro's, 2" lift, 285's on 3rd gen 17"'s.
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Re: Cranks,won't start until I prime+bleed.Shutoff solenoid died

Postby monoblock » Thu May 29, 2014 4:00 pm

Remove the FSS - a few experiences to help others.
My FSS is Bosch part 0 330 001 015 12v (087) 03F.It is 24mm hex.

ARJ_069-12-846.jpg


To avoid butchering it you need a thin wall crowfoot flare socket.No I don't have one but now I am looking for a set!Even this tool may need grinding !
The FSS was in perfect condition physically as shown in the photo.
IMG_0275.jpg


It showed no response to 12v applied directly to the terminal with the body grounded. The coil resistance of the windings is 8.3 ohms on the 200 ohm scale.
Note the rubber tip is perfect.I removed the plunger & spring and then refitted the 'gutted' FSS.
The tedious part was removing the FSS.
Cut off as much of the excess vertical portion of the 1/4" thick bracket as you can. You need a steady hand otherwise you'll damage nearby parts! Even when you twist off the excess with vise grips you may need to grind down more if you are using an open-end 24mm wrench.Mine was super tight so I had to find space for an extra long wrench(HF).
IMG_0276.jpg

But before you start the 'surgery' ,move the big bracket with all the accelerator linkage on it. The top two bolts are 1/2" and of course the one at the bottom,that you can't really see is not- it isn't even SAE ! It is 10mm!
If you didn't mark the connectors before you ripped them off, the blue & the grey fit on the double terminal on top of the FSS .The single black conductor goes to the Cold Start Device(KSB).
I hope this helps others who follow.
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Re: Cranks,won't start until I prime+bleed.Shutoff solenoid died

Postby monoblock » Thu May 29, 2014 4:16 pm

This might work?
http://store.snapon.com/Fuel-Line-Tools ... 46220.aspx
The regular crowfoot/flare socket sets usually only go up to 22mm and are often too chunky to fit in the very confined space available to swing a wrench. Yes it is expensive $65 for one wrench .The Proto crowfoot flare socket set is $700 !.
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Re: Cranks,won't start until I prime+bleed.Shutoff solenoid died

Postby monoblock » Thu May 29, 2014 4:46 pm

ve-pump.jpg
This is the best photo I could find to show the redundant 'ear' on the bracket and how buried the FSS is.It may help those who have never done this job get adequately prepared.
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Re: Cranks,won't start until I prime+bleed.Shutoff solenoid died

Postby DodgeFreak » Thu May 29, 2014 5:57 pm

Would you want to get rid of the rubber tip piece??
92 D350 Cab and Chassis. Auto stock, wiring gremlins. 330k miles
92 W250 Ext cab rotted completely out. Auto, pump maxed, 215 ppump nozzles, Denny T2 pin.
85 D350 single wheel, converted to cummins, getrag, turned up 2 turns and afc screw flush.
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Re: Cranks,won't start until I prime+bleed.Shutoff solenoid died

Postby Bob L » Thu May 29, 2014 6:27 pm

Can you share where is the best place to pick-up a spare FSS ?
Approx. cost ?.
Are they all created equal, or is it best to get Bosch ?.
Thanks for all the helpful info. Much appreciated.
Bob L
NRA Life Member 1974
'92.5 D250 LE EXT.CAB...Getrag...All Original...No Rust...
Purchased new in late Oct.'92---128K Mi. Still Like New.
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Re: Cranks,won't start until I prime+bleed.Shutoff solenoid died

Postby monoblock » Fri May 30, 2014 9:10 am

Bob,
If you search through the dozens of threads on this subject you'll see they are available for $30 or less. BUT it is highly likely the replacement will fail.Some people put 3 in within 12 months. Theses are the failures of the electrical part of the solenoid.The deterioration of the rubber tip is much slower of course.Genos sell them but here is a cheapie! Remember, this is not a 10 minute job!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/VE-Cummins-Dodg ... 70&vxp=mtr
Since the part is redundant in my case and it is also a potential source of shutdown while driving(!YES there are cases reported on Cummins Forums!), it was an obvious decision to gut it and replace it.
I'll keep all the parts for a future owner . I do not like this hack mechanic work but the unreliability of the Bosch part and the danger of a sudden shutdown or non-start leave no option.Ditto the fuel heater.
Lots of the replacement solenoids on FleaBay are made in China and are of doubtful reliability. Who knows if the German made item is any better? And how could you be sure since fake labels are rife?FYI the part is fitted to many VW cars also.
I think it is better to invest the money in a shut-down cable to the cab.Mine is in front of the grille and is a bit of a nuisance there.
Anyone got a good link to an in-cab shut down cable mod? Choke cable kit? What part number?
I hope this helps others who follow.
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Re: Cranks,won't start until I prime+bleed.Shutoff solenoid died

Postby monoblock » Fri May 30, 2014 9:56 am

Best I could find was from SAturn SAles in Millersburg PA .Part #109 38 437. About $22 delivered.Don't bother with the clunky online order form just call him-nice guy.
717 692 9500
http://saturnsurplus.com/controlcables/6151.htm
Looks stock too!
This may work? Mitsubishi Fuso MC082118
http://www.ebay.com/itm/370977742140?ss ... 1423.l2649
Last edited by monoblock on Sat May 31, 2014 8:01 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Cranks,won't start until I prime+bleed.Shutoff solenoid died

Postby DodgeFreak » Fri May 30, 2014 10:12 am

are you wanting me to figure out a shipped price for the fuel heater delete nipple or are you going to go a different route? I have a case dealer that's on my way home.....
92 D350 Cab and Chassis. Auto stock, wiring gremlins. 330k miles
92 W250 Ext cab rotted completely out. Auto, pump maxed, 215 ppump nozzles, Denny T2 pin.
85 D350 single wheel, converted to cummins, getrag, turned up 2 turns and afc screw flush.
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Re: Cranks,won't start until I prime+bleed.Shutoff solenoid died

Postby RCCUMMINS89 » Fri May 30, 2014 11:29 am

Good looking shut off cable... a lot better than the hokey one on my truck....
89 RC on shortened 92 diesel frame - NV4500 w/dual disc/4.10s on 37s. - Self built pump, "hot screw", lots of timing, True high volume low pressure lift pump, 62fmw/68/.7gated, 77lpm SAC Inj., Studs/O-rings,- 423/1220 Mustang - 11/16/2013 http://www.TheHungryDiesel.com full line dealer, if you don't see it please ask.
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