I bought the truck and as part of my inspection noticed that there was something wrong with the rear drums. So I replaced every part in them save for the wheel cylinders. After 11k miles, the brand new NAPA drums were out of round and pulsing so badly, that I decided I was done spending $$$ on drums, and going to discs - even if it would have been cheaper to turn the drums and replace the shoes.
So I did some research, and read about what folks had to say about the D70's in the back of our trucks. It seems that the general consensus was that no one made a bolt on kit, save for the semi-bolt on, really expensive, lacking a confidence inspiring fit based on their website, EGR brake system (
http://www.egrbrakes.com/index-main.htm) which BC847 installed in detail here (
http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/dev/ ... 46673.html).
I decided that I could do better on the price and the same on performance with a semi-weld on kit. I shopped around the usual vendors - Great Lakes 4x4, RuffStuff Specialties, and DIY4X.com. Even more confused, I called the folks at DIY4X and inquired if we had a D70, or a D70HD - turns out the folks over there were helpful, had me take a few measurements, and determined that I had a D70 non-HD. (For reference, the axle tubes are 3.5" OD before they neck down on the non-HD version).
Ok, so I ordered the parts from DIY4X.com (
http://www.diy4x.com/) part number: 00500K including the rotors, because I figured $40/rotor was a good enough price anyhow, and they mentioned that parts store rotors internal bore may not fit. (
http://diy4x.com/cart/index.php?route=p ... duct_id=50)
This is what showed up -
The packaging could have been better, the parts were loose in a flat rate box with packing peanuts everywhere, jammed inside the rotor vents, but my parts arrived un-damaged, so I suppose it was good enough for the job.
I went to the parts store and bought the following:
2 EA 1986 Chevy K20 front calipers (right and left) - O'Reilly P/N BHH-18-4208 and BHH-18-4209 ($12.99 ea, with a $18 core)
1 Set 1986 Chevy K20 front brake pads (Wagoner Thermo-quiet) O'Reilly P/N WAG-MX52 ($34.99)
2 EA 1986 Chevy K20 brake banjo bolts (called brake hose bolt) O'Reilly P/N MTM-13940 ($4.99 EA)
2 EA 1996 Ford Explorer 4x4 passenger rear axle brake hose O'Reilly P/N BHH-BH380528 ($17.99 EA)
2 EA 1991 Dodge W250 Rear Axle Wheel Seals ($7.99 EA)
Steal some driveway space, and a jackstand, pull the wheel off -
Remove the axle shaft
Remove the stake, giant nylock spinde nut, hub/drum assembly, then remove the 4 bolts holding the backing plate to the axle flange, and disconnect the brake hard line from the wheel cylinder. (If you're lucky, the wheel cylinder flare nut will not be frozen, and you wont strip it out. I'm not lucky - I used a cut off wheel to cut the brake hard line)
Take a spare 1/2-20 nut and use it to protect your wheel stud threads. Pound out the wheel studs, discard the warped drums. Attempt to mate the rotor to the hub by pressing in the studs. Determine that the wheel stud holes in the brake kit arent the right size. Break out the dial caliper, and determine that the drums have an approximately 11/16" hole. Decide that your home machine shop (DeWalt cordless 18v XRP drill) can do the job. Make the holes 11/16".
(Actually drilling cast isn't that bad at all)
Now install the rotor, and press (use your drift punch and hammer) the wheel studs in -