How to remove the AFC lever

How to make it go fast

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Postby bgilbert » Tue Mar 18, 2008 6:31 pm

Why risk it? Little dab will do ya :P .
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Postby DTanklage » Wed Mar 19, 2008 12:03 am

bgilbert wrote:
Little dab will do ya :P .



kinda like 'more is better' ?
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Postby cummins king » Wed Mar 19, 2008 7:30 am

DTanklage wrote:after you swedge them back in they wont leak but you can put what ever you want on them

why put glue on something that isnt gonna fall apart tho?

or sealer on something that doesnt leak?

i dont get it...


just an added percation because if you have and air leak you will lose the prim, and you will lose fuel, its just better to do it once then twic
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Postby DTanklage » Wed Mar 19, 2008 9:33 am

yea, you are right

i wonder why the factory in germany would put them in dry?

they must be a bunch of dummies
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Postby KTA » Wed Mar 19, 2008 10:33 am

Low strength(clear) loctite is used on them stock, or at least thats what the local ADS uses on them to prevent any weeps from developing. RTV or silicone is bad, especially if it gets internal to the pump.
Fleet of Junk: 1989 D350 627rwhp 1300 tq B-1/Hx60 twins, KTA pump/injectors, ported head, BIG fuel supply. 13.75@ 109.5mph 1/4: 1992 W350 Cab-chasis, 1993 W350 ext cab cust.370 inj Hx40/16cm 290rwhp hydroboost brakes,1984 D350 crew-cab another project.
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Postby DTanklage » Wed Mar 19, 2008 11:23 am

KTA wrote:
Low strength(clear) loctite is used on them stock, or at least...



when i used to work at the bosch factory we installed them dry

lol
slowass 2nd gen - ADRL pro mod bike #798 - 4.26 @ 175 mph (1/8m) - how quick do you wanna go?
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Postby DTanklage » Wed Mar 19, 2008 11:27 am

ps - if you are worried about them leaking do it right

tap em 1/16 pipe and install a plug on either end

dont even have to put the pin back in if you do that

i prefer spilt and toilet paper to hold my balls in tho
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