Pump Issues

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Postby sdstriper » Tue Apr 01, 2008 5:31 am

cummins king wrote:so even if i put #1cyl to tdc there is no garrenty that the stocks settings for the ip is 6oclk


Uhhh, right... Sounds to me like you need to actually determine TDC, get the timing tool adapter and a dial indicator and bench set that I/P. Then you'll really know what the hell is going on there...
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Postby cummins king » Tue Apr 01, 2008 5:34 am

okay. back to work i get
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Postby cummins king » Tue Apr 01, 2008 7:06 am

oh..... but at higher RPMs it does sound like its missing
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Postby fourwheelininajeep » Tue Apr 01, 2008 11:22 am

Here is the knowledge that I aquired from my pump guy, the screw for the governer is acctually for start up it has a little hole in it and it acctually creates a vacuum pulling the throttle to the open postion when the governer cannot overcome it, as soon as the governer overcomes it, the vacuum is broken and the pump goes back to normal idleing operation. The screw should be in fare enough so that the governer does not have play in it but the adjustment only has to do with start up. You should be able to feel it when you drive it if you have a couple of teeth off, to far advanced and it will run sluggish until 2400 ish then will take of, to retarded and it will run decent from idle to 2000 then will smoke and run very rich, excessive egts.
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Postby PToombs » Tue Apr 01, 2008 2:06 pm

On TDC, the keyway should point to #1 injection line hole.
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Postby cummins king » Tue Apr 01, 2008 4:40 pm

#1 ip line on the pump head going clock wise, right?

thats what i needed to know thanks
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Postby sdstriper » Tue Apr 01, 2008 4:42 pm

PToombs wrote:On TDC, the keyway should point to #1 injection line hole.


It's anyones guess with the guys situation, he has no idea what the actual timing is.

Anytime I buy a vehicle I personally check the basics to know what is what. Find actual TDC, time the pump (slightly advanced from oem), put the pump on the engine and check the actual timing again. Then you know what the timing is, period. Then you can mess around and move it back and forth to get your seat-of-the-pants "feel" of what it runs best at, but at least you know for sure what you got for timing +/-. None of this "no clue" tuning BS...
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Postby cummins king » Tue Apr 01, 2008 4:49 pm

wise words, but when a gear turns unexpetly you cant do anything about it exept get a measuring tool or guess


four wheeling my trucks runs great untill 2700 rpms but then it runs like its hitting a governer or maby my tach is off :mad: but i dont get out of control etgs

and the truck starts on 1/4 crank so thats good, im going to check were the timmings at right now,

so i can stop guessing at the problem
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Postby cummins king » Tue Apr 01, 2008 6:58 pm

okay so when the #1 cyl is at TDC the key on the gear on my pump is at 12:30, and thats right at the bottom of the cam plate because you can hear the clicking

so that would make the timming advanced by aprox. ................

witch is........................

crap i cant figuar this out
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Postby bgilbert » Tue Apr 01, 2008 7:08 pm

cummins king wrote:okay so when the #1 cyl is at TDC the key on the gear on my pump is at 12:30, and thats right at the bottom of the cam plate because you can hear the clicking

so that would make the timming advanced by aprox. ................

witch is........................

crap i cant figuar this out

It's been said, when cylinder #1 is at TDC, the key on the pump shaft will be facing down at the 6 o clock position. This is why a select few of us, that don't care what the book says, R&R a pump while the key sits at about 1 oclock. So the key doesn't fall into the timing case. The motor or the pump gear isn't gonna move unless the motor gets turned over. The pump shaft though can, if it's between cylinders. I've never had a problem, I just turn it back to where I need it, if need be. I've been told I can put the retard timing screw to use here. Get the key at 1 o clock, then lock the pump shaft with the timing screw, this way it doesn't move on ya.

Remember the pump will only go on one way, pull it out, put it back. The gear is keyed, and the pump shaft is keyed.
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Postby sdstriper » Tue Apr 01, 2008 7:20 pm

If your looking to have known pump timing, do it by the book. Make sure you have actual TDC, align the gears by the proper letters, use the dial indicator to time the plunger timing, put it all together and double check the timing, then from there on out you can take the I/P off with the keyway however you want, and you shouldn't have to wonder what the timing is or if it is the cause of an issue.

Fundamentals first, shortcuts later.
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Postby cummins king » Wed Apr 02, 2008 8:19 pm

fustrating!!!!!

so i got to start the truck this night, wont start, lots of fuel comming out of the stack, so i go and bleed the ILs and it still wont start, very weard.

turning the motor over with by hand wont cause this........? it know it wont but you never know,

so i take the pump top off, check the governer wieghts and there no play, the govener weights are only there to push the throdle back to idle,

so i get board and i deside the pump needs to loss some weight and i removed the ksb permently, how many people have done this mod?

then im like heck i already have this much done so 20 minuts later i removed the pump off the truck,

man i guess i didnt put the gear on right because the key is totalty screwed:oops:

also it your not carefull you could easly move the pump gear a tooth or two

so i have the #1cly at TDC, and the gear at TDC, so im going to aline the pump saft to TDC and that should make it zero right across the board, right?
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Postby KTA » Thu Apr 03, 2008 5:26 am

If you align the letter "E" on the pump gear with the single dot on the camgear and then put the pump on without knocking the key out you will have your basic factory stock timing correct asuming you also align the scribe marks on the pump housing with the scribe makr on the timing cover.
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Postby cummins king » Thu Apr 03, 2008 6:15 am

okay sounds easy enough so you saying that the pump shaft should be around 6o'clk, if thats what you mean by it falling out
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Postby KTA » Thu Apr 03, 2008 7:28 am

Yeah when the letters line up the keyway is on the bottom side, but not necessarily straight down. Just follow the directions and don't worry about where it is. If you watch to make sure the teeth stay engaged after you line up the letters you can turn the engine to where the keyway is up, install the pump, then rotate it back around to make sure the letters still line up and know you are correct without the danger of knocking the key out when its upside down.
Fleet of Junk: 1989 D350 627rwhp 1300 tq B-1/Hx60 twins, KTA pump/injectors, ported head, BIG fuel supply. 13.75@ 109.5mph 1/4: 1992 W350 Cab-chasis, 1993 W350 ext cab cust.370 inj Hx40/16cm 290rwhp hydroboost brakes,1984 D350 crew-cab another project.
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