Pump Issues

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Postby cummins king » Fri Apr 04, 2008 6:53 pm

also i pulled a part the regulator on the pump

this is what it looks like when apart

Image
Last edited by cummins king on Thu Apr 10, 2008 4:43 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby cummins king » Fri Apr 04, 2008 7:03 pm

hey KTA, or anybody when i got the truck running my case pressure went throught the roof, i hit 320psi, then i shut the motor off, im assuming it has somthing to do with the KSB being removed, any thoughts, and what did you mean by having to change something

what was really cool though, as the case pressure went up so did the timming and you could hear the motor run better
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Postby KTA » Sat Apr 05, 2008 6:21 am

The timing piston is diffrent between a ksb pump and a non ksb pump. By removing the KSB you took off the bypass that essentially makes it like the ksb is on all the time. I will have to look in the book at the circuit and see but I think you might have to drill an orificed hole in the timing piston.
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Postby cummins king » Sat Apr 05, 2008 8:41 am

okay thanks it would be much apresiated because whats happening is the case pressure just steadly goes up and i hit 320psi and im sure it would of kept going, so its not being regulated back, with drilling in the timming piston you just drilling a hole right through it, or......


Thanks Brian
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Postby PToombs » Sat Apr 05, 2008 5:00 pm

I tried to tell you that you line up the keyway with the #1 injector port. If you look, the mark is where the port is. I might have told you about the mark too. (I can't remember for sure. :oops: I told somebody recently!)

Glad you got it running though! ;)
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Postby cummins king » Sat Apr 05, 2008 7:24 pm

but its not at the number one injection port its at the third one
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Postby PToombs » Sun Apr 06, 2008 2:33 pm

Really? Mine is at #1. :?
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Postby sdstriper » Mon Apr 07, 2008 1:52 am

Delivery Valve "D", bottom left drivers side...
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Postby cummins king » Sat Apr 12, 2008 3:29 pm

sdstriper wrote:Delivery Valve "D", bottom left drivers side...


thats correct

well, im still having issues, i rebiult half the pump again , and i finaly get it running, but its not biulding case pressure, its sitting around 50psi when it should be 75 to 100psi, idling realy ruff, and it smokes like a big old locomotive, LOL, and after 15secs the idle dips down and stays there and then if you hit the fuel it goes back up and repeats it self,

its idleing at 700rpm

im wondering if its a injecoter tip, i havent pulled them yet

and i dont see any sign of leaking
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Postby seeker1056 » Sat Apr 12, 2008 3:38 pm

I suspect you will be putting your afc back on, and also check your inlet pressure.
Hvae you maybe cracked something inside the case with all that case pressure you had?

Did you put the ksb back on?

Have you verified your timing yet with a proper guage or are you stil eyeballin it
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Postby cummins king » Sat Apr 12, 2008 3:50 pm

hey

im still eyeballing it, i dont think that the little bit that im off could really be the problem,

i have the ksb back on, i dont think i cracked anything when i had it off yesterday i had a good look, inlet pressure is 25psi always

and no i havent put the afc pump top back on i like my one with the guage better but i might have to, although before i switch the pumps because of the seal poping out it was running great, and since then it hasent
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Postby cummins king » Mon Apr 14, 2008 8:40 pm

okay im finaly done screwing with the pump and its runnin again, its amasing how being one tooth off can mess everthing up
i apresiate all the help

one question in park i gave it some fuel and it reved to 1500rpm and then it sounds like its missing, and my etgs were at 600, i dont know how thats possible in park but thats what my guage says

Is it my timming still off

Joel
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Postby sdstriper » Tue Apr 15, 2008 2:23 pm

Why is it YOU don't know? Unreal...
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Postby seeker1056 » Wed Apr 16, 2008 4:35 am

because wether it is a gasser or diesel - you can not reliably set timing with"by guess and by golly" or in other words close isnt close enough - especially on a diesel.

I read in the factory manual that "exact" timing of the pump to the motor is so important that the timing pin is NOT to be relied on (too large a margin for error) and that one must use a wire pointer, and ascertain TDC for sure, and then reset the the timing pin.

It also said very cleary to make sure the pump lock was not to be disengaged until the the pump and gear were mated.

You need to take the cam cover off - set tdc, mark it, set pump timing at a shop and have it locked, line up the gears, set the pump, and then verify plunger timing to the motor at 1.4 mm.
Then you will "know" that timing is set.

Then you can reset to 1.7 mm or more timing if you wish becuase then you will know what it is.

You keep goin Joel, an you will be able to do this in yur sleep lol.

o and to answer how yur gettin off so much possibly? - like any other rotor distributor? - you might be out 180 degrees on the pump?
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Postby cummins king » Wed Apr 16, 2008 4:45 am

sdstriper wrote:Why is it YOU don't know? Unreal...


im sorry guys i know im doing things ass backwards, and rigth now i dont have the tools to do it proporly, i know Ken you said you would borrow them to me but i thought it would be easyer to do it my way, i guess it just inexperince, and a hard head,

i knew it was still a timming issue, but i was throwing the question out there just to make sure it wasnt sothing else

so im going to put the pump gear back on and then it dhould be close enough :lol:

oh and dyno day is on saturday and im probaly not going to be able to go witch sucks so im going to drive it for a month or two and im going to wait for some money and get the head work done and the tranny done
thanks
again,
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