AFC lever removal

How to make it go fast

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Postby Begle1 » Tue Aug 05, 2008 1:12 pm

Somebody needs to rig up a little rod or level attached to a servo, solenoid or pull cable.

Have the little rod prevent the AFC lever from moving at all when it's in the "down" position, and then pull the rod up and the AFC has complete freedom of movement.

It'd be the valet mode from hell.
1990 D-250 Regular Cab: Tweaked injection pump, built transmission, a cataclysmic charlie foxtrot of electronics, the most intense street-ran water injection system in the country, and some more unique stuff.
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Postby DTanklage » Tue Aug 05, 2008 2:52 pm

Begle1 wrote:
It'd be the valet mode from hell.



better than my p7100 with a nos purge solenoid inline with the boost signal?

with valve closed (no afc) 450 hp 64-71

flip the switch (opens afc line and activates two bottles) 900 hp

oh darn...
slowass 2nd gen - ADRL pro mod bike #798 - 4.26 @ 175 mph (1/8m) - how quick do you wanna go?
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Postby cummins king » Tue Aug 05, 2008 4:41 pm

Okay im thinking of one of those crazy ideas again

Sounds clear as mud in my head so here it goes

So if you took the fuel pin out and put a cork screw style (fuel pin) in there....

then you could remove the afc cap and bolt a small servo on there so it spins the cork screw style (fuel pin), and have the servo wire to

A. to potentiometer
B. to the TPS,
or C. to a combination of both.

Then you could adjust it ....

0 deg. = least admount of fuel
180 deg. = half fuel
360 deg. = full fuel

This way you could have full control of the afc while driving
with out wrecking it, or pulling it out. That way you dont have to waste all the fuel at the line, only when you want.

Hows That?




And this is an addition.....

If there was sombody smart enough they could make the servo and tps plug in to a chip and you could preset the chip to move the servo(fuel pin)
based on the tps movment.
That way you could make it custom for road driving, or track, or pulling.
93 4X4 auto
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Postby gear jammer 91" » Tue Aug 05, 2008 6:23 pm

I like the way you are thinking CK, but I've been told that even if you were to remove the fuel pin completely and run your truck that way, you would not get as much fuel as if you had removed the afc lever. (yes mines still on)
Right now I have a one inch long bolt in place of my smoke srew that I can use to bottom out the fuel pin if I choose, I just don't know how to
turn it from the cab. :?
Sold 91 now-intercooled W250, 388WHP 923WTQ on #2 only 423WHP 968WTQ on meth 0% correction.
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Postby cummins king » Tue Aug 05, 2008 8:14 pm

Well, then whats the big deal about making a custom AFC?
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Postby gear jammer 91" » Tue Aug 05, 2008 9:51 pm

I'm just a dumb truck driver and haven't been able to figure out, yet how to remotely control my afc. My thought would be a custom pin (dennyt) or something like that, and a way to move it remotly. Maybe a small air compressor under hood, hooked up to the afc diaphram?, you could adjust the air presure in the afc with a switch in the cab.
Sold 91 now-intercooled W250, 388WHP 923WTQ on #2 only 423WHP 968WTQ on meth 0% correction.
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Postby PToombs » Wed Aug 06, 2008 6:22 pm

Why not use a cable? Just drill the screw hole bigger and rethread to a larger size, then put a cable to the cone?
pete

Just enough power to break everything behind the crankshaft.
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Postby Begle1 » Wed Aug 06, 2008 9:05 pm

How much force does that lever push with?

What kind of sealing issues are we going to have with anything put through the case?
1990 D-250 Regular Cab: Tweaked injection pump, built transmission, a cataclysmic charlie foxtrot of electronics, the most intense street-ran water injection system in the country, and some more unique stuff.
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Postby gear jammer 91" » Tue Aug 12, 2008 9:58 pm

I don't know about the force on the fuel pin, but as far as puttin a cable actuator through the housing and onto the fuel pin, and sealing it, that shouldn't be a problem since there is no fuel in the top of the pump, and putting the fuel pin on a cable would be doing away with the boost needing to move the pin. So you could just put a plug in were the boost line comes out of the head and were it goes into the pump top, and hook up your cable actuator through the smoke screw hole.
Sold 91 now-intercooled W250, 388WHP 923WTQ on #2 only 423WHP 968WTQ on meth 0% correction.
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Postby 1dumrednek » Tue Mar 31, 2009 11:54 am

if you pull that afc lever out does that affect your idle at all?
A.J.
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Postby gear jammer 91" » Tue Mar 31, 2009 4:09 pm

My idle didn't change from removing the AFC lever.
Sold 91 now-intercooled W250, 388WHP 923WTQ on #2 only 423WHP 968WTQ on meth 0% correction.
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Postby 2wd_sled_puller » Thu Apr 02, 2009 6:55 pm

Is this the lever that when u take all the tork heads off the top of the pump and pull the top u have that rod with a spring on it. Below that is a gear?? Is that the rod yall are talking about. If so what do we do with that spring junk it also?
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Postby CumminsPride » Fri Apr 03, 2009 5:16 am

No, its in the pump top with the governor spring.
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Postby gear jammer 91" » Fri Apr 03, 2009 4:12 pm

The picture I have for my avatar is the AFC lever out of my pump. That's what you are looking for.
Sold 91 now-intercooled W250, 388WHP 923WTQ on #2 only 423WHP 968WTQ on meth 0% correction.
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Postby randyswelding » Fri Apr 03, 2009 4:18 pm

hey cumminspride i got the top off the ve from the motor i got from ya and love not havin the afc in it now,i use jbweld for the bbs and havnt had a problem with it.
'92 D350 cab and chassy,pump turned up with 1/8 timin,coaltriann 6x16 sticks,htt manifold,asa intake cooler tubez,south bend 13" clutch rebuilt G360,ps cooler,industrial super 62 phat shaft turbo,weldin bed.
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