VE application without electric shut-off solenoid?

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VE application without electric shut-off solenoid?

Postby Begle1 » Tue Sep 09, 2008 11:35 am

Does anybody know of any VE pumps that didn't use the electric shut-off solenoid? Did anything just have a plug that went in the hole and rely on the manual lever for shut-off purposes?
1990 D-250 Regular Cab: Tweaked injection pump, built transmission, a cataclysmic charlie foxtrot of electronics, the most intense street-ran water injection system in the country, and some more unique stuff.
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Postby randyswelding » Tue Sep 09, 2008 4:53 pm

dont know what application,but just take the spring and plunger thingy out and a cable.i got to get a new cable i went cheap for temp and broke the cable so im lookin for another one
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Postby Ace » Wed Sep 10, 2008 7:24 pm

Mine's been "plugged" ever since the thing started leaking a few months after I gutted it. The plastic insert that forms the solenoid body can become compromised and leak. I punched out the center body and tapped it for 1/2" NPT. The pipe plug is easy to get a wrench on for putting it back in nice 'n tight. ;-)
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Postby Begle1 » Wed Sep 10, 2008 9:11 pm

Well, that's even better.

I'm after a way to tap the thing for a line to run to my pressure transducer.

I can drill the totally plastic and be left with enough meat for a tap?

Do you mean 1/2" NPT as in "1/2" diameter NPT fitting" or "real 1/2" NPT with .84" diameter" fitting? 1/2" NPT would take up most all of that thing. Which I can see as being a good way of doing it.
1990 D-250 Regular Cab: Tweaked injection pump, built transmission, a cataclysmic charlie foxtrot of electronics, the most intense street-ran water injection system in the country, and some more unique stuff.
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Postby Ace » Wed Sep 10, 2008 9:41 pm

Don't try to drill it. Get a good sized punch, set it up on a vise with the jaws open just right and whack it out with one solid blow from the trusty BFH. Once the center section is gone, it's sized well to tap at 1/2NPT. Then you can screw whatever you want back in there. Come to think of it, that would probably make an excellent place to get a case pressure reading.
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Postby Begle1 » Wed Sep 10, 2008 10:42 pm

So the center section is interference fitted or cold welded in or something?
1990 D-250 Regular Cab: Tweaked injection pump, built transmission, a cataclysmic charlie foxtrot of electronics, the most intense street-ran water injection system in the country, and some more unique stuff.
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Postby Begle1 » Thu Sep 11, 2008 9:11 pm

How important is the O-ring in there? Because I don't have the O-ring any more... Will it seal well enough with just the threads? Should I put some liquid teflon on them?
1990 D-250 Regular Cab: Tweaked injection pump, built transmission, a cataclysmic charlie foxtrot of electronics, the most intense street-ran water injection system in the country, and some more unique stuff.
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Postby Begle1 » Fri Sep 12, 2008 12:02 pm

Well, I put some white TFE paste on the solenoid threads and screwed it into the pump.


It ran for about 10 seconds before I got a nice milky white Diesel leaking out of the threads.



Is there a better liquid thread sealer out there, or do I need to find a way to put that O-ring back in there?
1990 D-250 Regular Cab: Tweaked injection pump, built transmission, a cataclysmic charlie foxtrot of electronics, the most intense street-ran water injection system in the country, and some more unique stuff.
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Postby Ace » Fri Sep 12, 2008 5:22 pm

I don't remember seeing an o-ring on mine. I used teflon thread sealing tape and torqued it down pretty tight.
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Postby Begle1 » Fri Sep 12, 2008 7:29 pm

Really??

Mine had a 1/4" or so O-ring around the tube that the plunger slide in.

Maybe that's an IC/ non-IC change.
1990 D-250 Regular Cab: Tweaked injection pump, built transmission, a cataclysmic charlie foxtrot of electronics, the most intense street-ran water injection system in the country, and some more unique stuff.
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