Cold Starting

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Cold Starting

Postby Ace » Sat Oct 11, 2008 7:53 am

It's getting to that time of year again. I'm going without the grids this year and have the KSB wired to a switch. So my question is this: How does timing advance affect cold starting?

I've seen some conflicting or confusing (at least to me) information on this subject. The P-pumps get harder to start with more advance because they lack the VE's dynamic timing ability. But the KSB is supposedly just a pollution control device for reducing smoke right after cold starting.

So will it start easier with more advance and/or the KSB engaged, or not?
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Postby dpuckett » Sat Oct 11, 2008 3:26 pm

It would probably start easier with the KSB engaged, unless you have some real extreme advance to begin with.

It does run smoother when cold with the KSB, so the benefits arent limited to reduced pollution.

DP
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Hers- 04 QC 4x4. Built auto, Triple Dog, Air Dog. Funny Round truck that aint so quiet.
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Postby Ace » Sat Oct 11, 2008 4:13 pm

Thanks Daniel, that's kinda what I figured, just wasn't sure and didn't want to be using the KSB in a way that might be hindering starting.

I noticed after it began cooling off a few weeks ago, the truck would sputter and cough a bit and and occasionally miss lighting up on the first touch of the key. Always started on the 2nd try, but it was obviously missing the grid heaters.

So I bumped the timing just a tad, maybe 1/16" and wired up the KSB to a switch. I guess there's a timing sweet spot there somewhere that will give the best results. Hopefully finding it now.

Now I am wondering about that rear-most (closest to the firewal) sensor in the intake manifold. I didn't disassemble the wiring harness to make certain, but it looked to me like that one was wired in to the KSB. But there was no juice to the KSB when I checked it with the key on cold before starting the other day. I suppose the two sensors are interrelated or dependent somehow, but have a hard time understanding the wiring diagrams - no electrical/electronics training! :oops:
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Postby PToombs » Sat Oct 11, 2008 5:14 pm

I wired my KSB to a switch for performance reasons. I can tell you when I flip the switch at 45*, the engine smooths out alot.
1 sensor is for the grids, the other the KSB. The power for the KSB comes from the shutoff solenoid to the temp switch, then to the KSB.
pete

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Postby Ace » Sun Oct 12, 2008 5:34 am

Ahhh yes, that would explain it then. Now I remember reading that a long time ago. The Shutdown solenoid's been gone for over a year. Forward temp sensor pulled a few months ago. Guess I may as well go ahead and pull that last sensor out of the manifold then. :grin:
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Postby apwatson50 » Wed Oct 15, 2008 10:05 am

I wouldn't mind hearing some feed back on cold starts without the heaters.

Aaron
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Postby 92firstgenctd » Sun Oct 19, 2008 6:33 pm

dumb question, but what is a "KSB"??? :oops: thanks
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Postby roxxx » Sun Oct 19, 2008 8:17 pm

92firstgenctd wrote:dumb question, but what is a "KSB"??? :oops: thanks

Yep wondring my self ???
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ultra wheel rims Type 164
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Postby Begle1 » Sun Oct 19, 2008 8:24 pm

Kaltstartbreschenegger or something like that which translates to "cold starting aid".


It's the wax cylinder that sits on the side of the injection pump with one wire going to it; depending on the year, it either activates when it gets voltage or when it doesn't get voltage.

When it's activating, it increases case pressure by a bunch through a mechanism which I don't know in detail. The case pressure advance causes the pump to max out its internal timing advance mechanism.
1990 D-250 Regular Cab: Tweaked injection pump, built transmission, a cataclysmic charlie foxtrot of electronics, the most intense street-ran water injection system in the country, and some more unique stuff.
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