chewin up shut off solenoids

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chewin up shut off solenoids

Postby railhor5.9 » Wed Nov 19, 2008 5:36 pm

2 in 1 week is killin me. they are washin the tip off, wats causin this?
1993 d250,single cab short bed, sbc, 175hp p-pumped,4kgsk,370's, fass 150. hx35
1997 2500 4x4 , 913,191's,3kgsk,5x16, 3rd gen dubs.
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Postby TWorline » Wed Nov 19, 2008 5:45 pm

Crankin up the pump is the culprit for this condition. Time to join the pull cable club! :rock:
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1992 W250 Club Cab LE, S300 62/71, 5" stainless intake, 4" into 5" exhaust, ATS exhaust manifold, SDX 5X18 Injectors, AirDog 150, Borgeson shaft, Coolingmist Vari-cool, Con OFEK, 3" Stainless CoolerTubz, 354/749.

http://www.CoolerTubz.com/
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Postby KTA » Thu Nov 20, 2008 6:19 am

I think it can be attributed to cranked up pumps and stock injectors. I have never lost a solenoid on one of my pumps but they are all flowing through big injectors. I bought a 92 once that was already turned up with stock injectors and I had to kill it in gear as soon as I got it. I put a set of custom 370's in it and 40,000miles later it still kills with the key. 8)
Fleet of Junk: 1989 D350 627rwhp 1300 tq B-1/Hx60 twins, KTA pump/injectors, ported head, BIG fuel supply. 13.75@ 109.5mph 1/4: 1992 W350 Cab-chasis, 1993 W350 ext cab cust.370 inj Hx40/16cm 290rwhp hydroboost brakes,1984 D350 crew-cab another project.
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Postby SChandler » Thu Nov 20, 2008 11:56 am

I had the same problem with my 92 a couple of months ago. I had the fuel screw set to just below runaway (with stock injectors) and about every 4th time I got on it hard, that was the end of another tip. I finally turned the fuel screw down a 1/2 turn or so and that fixed it (for now) and I didn't notice a difference in power. I know that it is sacrilege to suggest turning down the fuel screw, but at $45 a solenoid, it was worth it. You can try to massage a torn tip back into shape (look up BC847 on DTR, he did a write up there). I tried it once but it didn't shut it down. I don't think I got the end flat enough, so YMMV.

Edit: A warning for you, the Delphi solenoids are not a good idea for trucks that tear tips. The rubber part is pressed onto a little ball on the end of the metal part, and you can suck the whole rubber tip off of it. Ask me how I know. :roll: It will leave you on the side of the road with just enough power to drive the truck onto a flatbed trailer in 1st gear. And all of those rubber pieces get wedged, tightly, into a very small hole. You'll need a set of seal picks to get the pieces out.
1992 W250, 300k, Getrag, BHAF, 4" exhaust, DDP fuel pin, Isspro gauges, +3 on the fuel screw, 3200rpm gov. spring, 16cm^2 housing
http://s230.photobucket.com/albums/ee261/dieselsam250/
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Postby 921stgen » Thu Nov 20, 2008 3:47 pm

Here you go $10= $4 shipping for a vw shutoff soleniod. http://dieselvw.com/PumpSolenoid.htm
91 W250 pods, , pull cable, Isspro FP gauge, Isspro boost, pyro, 366 spring, 91 W350, sold-92 W250, 40 hp Injectors, Bully Dog Fuel Pin, Isspro-tach, boots, pyro, AM electric fp gauge, 3200 GS, 5" AEM intake, 4" exhaust 5" stack
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Postby PToombs » Thu Nov 20, 2008 6:14 pm

I tried turning the rubber down after I chipped my 2nd one. Chipped it again. So I went one better, I took all the rubber off.
I found out 2 things,
1, there's a hole in the end of the plunger that you have to weld in,
2, it works good 98% of the time, once in a while it still "diesels" to a halt,
3, you have to stretch the spring quite a bit.

4, I never said I could count! ;)
pete

Just enough power to break everything behind the crankshaft.
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Postby dragrdan » Mon Nov 24, 2008 8:06 pm

Well, I just killed my first kill sol. :lol: Delphi's are on the avoid list, any more, or any on the to look for list? gonna try cleanin up the plunger first tho, cheapskate that I am.

pump just below runaway, no probs runnin it hard for the last mo or so.
Installed a DennyT pin, and after the first test drive wouldn't shut off with the key. Injectors are stock AFAIK. so until I get it fixed, I have joined the pullwire club(didn't have any cables available 8) ).

Seems strange that bigger injectors(more fuel flowing) would be easier on the plunger, thinkin it would be opposite. Possibly just a better made plunger?
93 W250 5spd, Comp 275, HE351CW, 5X18, IP turned up, 3200 spring, BHAF.
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Postby KTA » Tue Nov 25, 2008 6:45 am

Smaller injectors create more pressure, which makes for a more violent return pressure wave from the injector to the pump plunger. If the pressure in the injection line is still above the pop off pressure for the injector then the delivery valve will not have closed before the plunger tries to create its next injection event. This results in high pressure fuel blowing back through the delivery valve into the pump plunger. When that happens the plunger is back trying to take in fuel, but pressure in the pump plunger is higher than the case pressure so by path of least resistance you have a high pressure jet blasting out across the shut off solenoid. Bye bye solenoid tip, it wasn't made to be power washed with high pressure fuel. ;)
Fleet of Junk: 1989 D350 627rwhp 1300 tq B-1/Hx60 twins, KTA pump/injectors, ported head, BIG fuel supply. 13.75@ 109.5mph 1/4: 1992 W350 Cab-chasis, 1993 W350 ext cab cust.370 inj Hx40/16cm 290rwhp hydroboost brakes,1984 D350 crew-cab another project.
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Postby dragrdan » Tue Nov 25, 2008 2:32 pm

Gotcha,
Any tricks to gettin the solenoid to come loose? Had a wrench on it(needed to remove the throttle linkage bracket), but was slipping. Couldn't get the boxed end on it. Maybe hammer and chisel to break it loose?
93 W250 5spd, Comp 275, HE351CW, 5X18, IP turned up, 3200 spring, BHAF.
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Postby 921stgen » Tue Nov 25, 2008 3:33 pm

Three way= remove the pump from engine, remove the throttle linkage and grind the rear pump bracket so a wrench will fit on it, or bend a wrench with a torch and a vise to fit in on it.
91 W250 pods, , pull cable, Isspro FP gauge, Isspro boost, pyro, 366 spring, 91 W350, sold-92 W250, 40 hp Injectors, Bully Dog Fuel Pin, Isspro-tach, boots, pyro, AM electric fp gauge, 3200 GS, 5" AEM intake, 4" exhaust 5" stack
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Postby PToombs » Tue Nov 25, 2008 6:10 pm

KTA, thanks, always wondered why that did that. ;)
Pastor Bob told me once if you let off the pedal easy, it won't chip plungers. Now I know why.

Cut or bend the top of the flat bracket on the pump to break it off. Most guys use a cresent wrench and bend it back and forth 'til it breaks. Throttle bracket and linkage out of the way helps alot.
pete

Just enough power to break everything behind the crankshaft.
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Postby Begle1 » Tue Nov 25, 2008 9:33 pm

Why not just take off the metal plate?

It only takes the removal of a couple bolts to take that metal plate off.

Should I not be doing that?
1990 D-250 Regular Cab: Tweaked injection pump, built transmission, a cataclysmic charlie foxtrot of electronics, the most intense street-ran water injection system in the country, and some more unique stuff.
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Postby dragrdan » Wed Nov 26, 2008 2:40 am

Plate is MIA, have no probs gettin the wrench on it, just wont budge. Wanted to make sure there wasnt somethin lockin it it(other than rust n corrosion) before I got brutal with it
93 W250 5spd, Comp 275, HE351CW, 5X18, IP turned up, 3200 spring, BHAF.
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Postby Ace » Wed Nov 26, 2008 9:08 am

Mine uses the holes in the plate for the IP moving tool.
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Postby KRB64 » Sun Nov 30, 2008 5:54 am

Is there any possible damage to letting the truck idle while the ignition is off? I mean, there is no electrical usage while the alternator is not charging while the PCM is shut off correct? I'm talking about for a '92.
'92 W250 CC LE, auto, OD on shift, 3.54 limited; boost/PT pyro/tranny, oil temp, fuel press, tach; Bosch 190s, Ol' Smoky, 366 spring, full fuel, pull cable, 1/8" bump, synthetics, Borgeson, aFe, 16cm house, 4" pipe, AT cooler, ton shoes, ext reg...
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