500hp

How to make it go fast

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Postby RumbleFish » Fri Nov 21, 2008 12:50 pm

redneckroot wrote:Next question, I'm in the process of buying a 94 motor and tranny set up, I know the tranny is a 4 speed auto But i'm not sure which one they came with, 47re? 47ru?


should be a 47rh afaik.
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Postby pulltilbroke » Sat Nov 22, 2008 12:52 am

rumblefish, Yes those are stacked blocks but not after I find some later 1st gen blocks

Ace, When pulling I run suspension blocks with 1" of travel and when I find some different blocks I'm gonna build some stiffer leaf packs :D

dodgetkboy78, Smooooth as glass 8)


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DeLIMloOpJM
90 W250 reg cab, Modified knuder valve, reversed reciprocting dinglearm adjusted, High volume flux capacitor,upgraded whirlygig, A clutch and a hitch
93 W350 ext cab dually, getrag and a few adjustments
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Postby redneckroot » Mon Nov 24, 2008 11:10 am

So what am I going to have to do to the 47rh to be able to reliably pull with it? Or is that throwing my money away? Would I be further ahead saving up and buying a nv4500 in a year or two?
1990 Restored with a bit of aftermarket goodies might be for sale?
1993 ex. cab 2wd soon to be 4wd Newest Project
1998 ex. cab 12v 4x4 now a 5 speed SOLD
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Postby KTA » Tue Nov 25, 2008 6:51 am

You can probably buy a used NV4500, get a good clutch and input shaft for less than you would spend building the automatic.
Fleet of Junk: 1989 D350 627rwhp 1300 tq B-1/Hx60 twins, KTA pump/injectors, ported head, BIG fuel supply. 13.75@ 109.5mph 1/4: 1992 W350 Cab-chasis, 1993 W350 ext cab cust.370 inj Hx40/16cm 290rwhp hydroboost brakes,1984 D350 crew-cab another project.
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Postby redneckroot » Tue Nov 25, 2008 3:27 pm

I just started into looking at that route. The big money there looks like the clutch, where is a good place for one? and how much clutch do I need?
1990 Restored with a bit of aftermarket goodies might be for sale?
1993 ex. cab 2wd soon to be 4wd Newest Project
1998 ex. cab 12v 4x4 now a 5 speed SOLD
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Postby Cschafer » Mon Dec 01, 2008 7:57 pm

pulltilbroke wrote:rumblefish, Yes those are stacked blocks but not after I find some later 1st gen blocks

Ace, When pulling I run suspension blocks with 1" of travel and when I find some different blocks I'm gonna build some stiffer leaf packs :D

dodgetkboy78, Smooooth as glass 8)


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DeLIMloOpJM


Kinda hard to have wheel hop when your tires arnt spinning. Dude I solute you going out there and haveing some fun with a cool old truck but your not even close to pulling with some 3.0 pullers in the big series across the mid west. If you ever did get enough wheel speed to strain anything you'd find your truck is to tall and the front will bounce like a mother. Your front drive shaft is to short with too much angle and 1310 u-joint. Then if you get past that you'll find that like kta said first gen chassis doesnt work good, the motor mounts are week and you'll have most of 2nd gen drive train it before too long (nv4500, 13/8 input, twin disk, 4 link front suspension, dana 80). The 205 will probobly be down the line but just look at the torque ratings for the 205 and the 271 from the manufacture. So then you can do a 271 and high pinion front axle conversion for strength. Then all you need is a pump that will make power (not run but make power) at 4500 rpm and you got a puller. Anybody else see a reason to start with a 96-98 5sp truck. :roll:
90 W250,bank$ intercooled,I.I. Silver Bulit, 38mm ex. gate, a-1000 supply, 6x.018's, MIA AFC lever, 366 spring, 2 stages of laughing gas, 486/1005 on the gas. sold
91 w250 wrecker
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Postby RumbleFish » Mon Dec 01, 2008 8:18 pm

by then it would be easier to set a 1st gen body on a p-pump truck
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Postby pulltilbroke » Mon Dec 01, 2008 9:54 pm

Cschafer wrote:
pulltilbroke wrote:rumblefish, Yes those are stacked blocks but not after I find some later 1st gen blocks

Ace, When pulling I run suspension blocks with 1" of travel and when I find some different blocks I'm gonna build some stiffer leaf packs :D

dodgetkboy78, Smooooth as glass 8)


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DeLIMloOpJM


Kinda hard to have wheel hop when your tires arnt spinning. Dude I solute you going out there and haveing some fun with a cool old truck but your not even close to pulling with some 3.0 pullers in the big series across the mid west. If you ever did get enough wheel speed to strain anything you'd find your truck is to tall and the front will bounce like a mother. Your front drive shaft is to short with too much angle and 1310 u-joint. Then if you get past that you'll find that like kta said first gen chassis doesnt work good, the motor mounts are week and you'll have most of 2nd gen drive train it before too long (nv4500, 13/8 input, twin disk, 4 link front suspension, dana 80). The 205 will probobly be down the line but just look at the torque ratings for the 205 and the 271 from the manufacture. So then you can do a 271 and high pinion front axle conversion for strength. Then all you need is a pump that will make power (not run but make power) at 4500 rpm and you got a puller. Anybody else see a reason to start with a 96-98 5sp truck. :roll:



Yes your right i'm no where near a 3.0 truck . but i do have enough power to strain and break stuff like d70s and front joints.thats why we have a d80 a 4500 and next year we should have 1410s on the front shaft The only time I bounce is when I have minimal weight on the front

Btw my truck never finished out of the top five all year, not to bad in my book when I was running against 600-800 hp trucks :D

But untill I get the money to build a competitive 3.0 truck I'll just keep pulling my old junk and having fun

Also me and stillsmokin got a few ve tricks up our sleeves that i don't think anyone has tried yet so next year is going to be very interesting
90 W250 reg cab, Modified knuder valve, reversed reciprocting dinglearm adjusted, High volume flux capacitor,upgraded whirlygig, A clutch and a hitch
93 W350 ext cab dually, getrag and a few adjustments
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Postby KTA » Mon Dec 01, 2008 10:14 pm

I believe on page 2 of this thread I recomended getting wrecked 03 and up and putting the 1 gen body on it as the cheapest best way to be competitive. 8)
Anyways I highly recommend Haisley machine clutches. I can also say that if you try to run too much gear for your power level and are one of those pullers I see that rides the clutch 75-100ft to keep the charger lit to run road gear you will be very unhappy with the life of your high dollar clutch. With a haisley comp puller correct use is gently floorboard it when it gets about 4500 or so the counterweights start loading it and it starts to creep out, then side step the clutch and hang on. 8) They hold up well like that.
Fleet of Junk: 1989 D350 627rwhp 1300 tq B-1/Hx60 twins, KTA pump/injectors, ported head, BIG fuel supply. 13.75@ 109.5mph 1/4: 1992 W350 Cab-chasis, 1993 W350 ext cab cust.370 inj Hx40/16cm 290rwhp hydroboost brakes,1984 D350 crew-cab another project.
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Postby VEfreak » Tue Dec 02, 2008 8:39 am

I think Cschafer nailed it. I don't think you'll get the rpm's out of a VE to make a good run on a 3.0 charger, much less be competitive. I personally think you should go to the 2.6 class. If you really wanna run in the 3.0 class, get your self a P-pump. You'll really be glad you did when your custom built pump is crank full fuel at 5000 rpm.

My opinion being stated, GIVE HER HELL!!! If you can find a way to make that old VE work then more power to ya. Go out there and have fun.
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Postby pulltilbroke » Tue Dec 02, 2008 6:27 pm

VEfreak wrote:I think Cschafer nailed it. I don't think you'll get the rpm's out of a VE to make a good run on a 3.0 charger, much less be competitive. I personally think you should go to the 2.6 class. If you really wanna run in the 3.0 class, get your self a P-pump. You'll really be glad you did when your custom built pump is crank full fuel at 5000 rpm.

My opinion being stated, GIVE HER HELL!!! If you can find a way to make that old VE work then more power to ya. Go out there and have fun.



I never said i was building a 3.0 truck,i'm planning on sticking with a 2.6 class


Oh don't worry I will Give Her Hell and and it will be fun seeing what happens next season
90 W250 reg cab, Modified knuder valve, reversed reciprocting dinglearm adjusted, High volume flux capacitor,upgraded whirlygig, A clutch and a hitch
93 W350 ext cab dually, getrag and a few adjustments
pulltilbroke
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Postby Richie O » Tue Dec 02, 2008 6:34 pm

Keep taking and posting videos. I like watching you pull. I think you can be proud how she goes.
1989 W250 727, 3.07 L/S, S300, P/S Intercooler, Stans exaust, Pump adjustments, 127k miles,297 hp
1993 W250 extended cab, rag, 4.10 l/s, 6x16's, HTT 62/71/14 piston l/p, Isspro EV series tach, fuel pressure, boost, oil pres, water temp, volt, pryo, 132k/ 301 hp
1992 W250 with NV4500, 3.54's, 16cm 60mm GDS H1C, ground stock cone, Isspro tach, pryo, boost, fuel pressure, slow, rusty, dented,180k
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Postby redneckroot » Tue Dec 02, 2008 8:24 pm

well the build sheet right now is most likely going to be:
P-Pumped 94 motor, port and polish, valve springs, o-rings, not sure on pump mods or injectors yet still waiting for the guy to surrender the motor to me so i can get started. (I was all for a ve puller but how could i pass up a motor for 700 complete?)

The tranny i'm hoping to find a salvage truck unless someone wants to deal with some parts, but the thing i'm hung up on now is gears. I already have to much money in the rear end to swap it out so i'm planning on running it and hoping for the best at least until i can get my hands on an 80. The axles have 3.07's in them right now which I know need to go but to what? 4.10? not sure.... I still would like to be able to drive the thing on the road without a max speed of 50.
1990 Restored with a bit of aftermarket goodies might be for sale?
1993 ex. cab 2wd soon to be 4wd Newest Project
1998 ex. cab 12v 4x4 now a 5 speed SOLD
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Postby KTA » Tue Dec 02, 2008 8:43 pm

Direct low with 6.17 gears should be about right, and its the most likely to save your drivetrain and frame by saving the torque till it gets to the axles. I don't know for sure but I don't think you can put those gears in your axle though because i have always heard the 3.07 carriers are bastard. Now you REALLY would be better off starting with another chasis.
Fleet of Junk: 1989 D350 627rwhp 1300 tq B-1/Hx60 twins, KTA pump/injectors, ported head, BIG fuel supply. 13.75@ 109.5mph 1/4: 1992 W350 Cab-chasis, 1993 W350 ext cab cust.370 inj Hx40/16cm 290rwhp hydroboost brakes,1984 D350 crew-cab another project.
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Postby VEfreak » Wed Dec 03, 2008 8:51 am

sorry then mate. All i really read was the post two above mine so i took it you were building a 3.0 truck. Lol. Damn I'd love to build a puller, but here comes college and I'll barely be able to hang onto my truck. Oh well. lol :jumpsmile:
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