What would work best for me?

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What would work best for me?

Postby coalminer1022 » Wed Jan 07, 2009 6:58 pm

Truck;
92 3/4 ton, 3200 gov spring, auto, 3.55 gears, smoke screw turned a little, and power screw turned a little, boost and egt gauge.

My question is what would u do to my truck, i got a $1000 safety bonus check from work. (exhaust doesnt count, because that is gettin done this weekend)

SO what would u do?
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Postby pulltilbroke » Wed Jan 07, 2009 7:10 pm

I would put a converter in it and turn some screws
90 W250 reg cab, Modified knuder valve, reversed reciprocting dinglearm adjusted, High volume flux capacitor,upgraded whirlygig, A clutch and a hitch
93 W350 ext cab dually, getrag and a few adjustments
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Postby 1991cummins » Wed Jan 07, 2009 7:45 pm

i agree with pulltillbroke ;) , get the right one too... too little converter means it hurts the wallet twice, too much converter only once :D lol...
1991 D350, reg cab, five speed, 4" dp 5" mitre cuts, 32 gsk, pump max, piston lp, POD injectors, S300, 3" cooler tubz, coolingmist, boost, pyro and tach... dually rockstars black, and custom fit 2nd gen towing mirrors
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Postby gear jammer 91" » Wed Jan 07, 2009 7:59 pm

I would have to agree with the previous two. spending money on the drive train isn't fun, in my opinion, but it will be worth it when you add more power, and it will allow you to better use the power you have. I put a clutch in my truck before I spent any real money on anything that would add power. It kinda sucked at the time, but I don't have to worry about it now. 8)
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Postby peobryant » Thu Jan 08, 2009 4:15 pm

I would back that smoke screw back out, and like everyone else said, address your drivetrain. A Goerend converter wouls be realy nice in that thing. 8)

Also, for $105 you can get the best fuel pin available for our trucks shipped to your door. If you're interested go on the DTR and PM member DennyT and ask about his fuel pin.

You said you have a boost and pyro, I would suggest a fuel pressure gauge since you want to turn the truck up, and a tranny temp gauge to keep the auto alive.

When you say exhaust, what exactly do you mean? 4" straight pipe, or are you going to run a muffler? It doesn't really matter, I'm just curious.
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Postby Ace » Thu Jan 08, 2009 4:20 pm

1991cummins wrote:i agree with pulltillbroke ;) , get the right one too... too little converter means it hurts the wallet twice, too much converter only once :D lol...

Actually, the times it hurts the wallet is virtually unlimited. You keep paying for it at the pump every time you fill up when you could have gotten 2-3mpg more with a good, tight torque converter.
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Postby 1991cummins » Thu Jan 08, 2009 5:23 pm

good point ace, now we're thinking with our heads javascript:emoticon(':scratch:')
1991 D350, reg cab, five speed, 4" dp 5" mitre cuts, 32 gsk, pump max, piston lp, POD injectors, S300, 3" cooler tubz, coolingmist, boost, pyro and tach... dually rockstars black, and custom fit 2nd gen towing mirrors
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Postby coalminer1022 » Thu Jan 08, 2009 5:56 pm

im gonna go with a straight pipe..maybe 5" miter stacks.,..
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Postby PToombs » Thu Jan 08, 2009 6:05 pm

'91 Cummins wrote:Also, for $105 you can get the best fuel pin available for our trucks shipped to your door. If you're interested go on the DTR and PM member DennyT and ask about his fuel pin.



Save your money here too. Grind your own. There are a bunch of threads on this on several sites.
pete

Just enough power to break everything behind the crankshaft.
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Postby peobryant » Thu Jan 08, 2009 6:18 pm

PToombs wrote:
'91 Cummins wrote:Also, for $105 you can get the best fuel pin available for our trucks shipped to your door. If you're interested go on the DTR and PM member DennyT and ask about his fuel pin.



Save your money here too. Grind your own. There are a bunch of threads on this on several sites.


You can do that, but I don't think you will find as much of a power gain with a heavily ground pin compared to a DennyT pin. I'm sure people will disagree, but a lot of people who went from a ground stock pin, to a DennyT pin, noticed a power gain. There are also dyno results to prove it. I'm sure there are many variables such as how heavily the pin is ground and other things, but on average the DennyT pin performed better.

Plus, if for some reason you want to go back to stock, you can just put the stock pin back in, unless you grind it of course... :P
Parker
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1972 Mercedes-Benz 220D, OM615 Diesel, 4 Speed Manual
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Postby PToombs » Fri Jan 09, 2009 5:38 pm

'91 Cummins wrote:Plus, if for some reason you want to go back to stock, you can just put the stock pin back in, unless you grind it of course... :P


Just take it out, turn it around, and put it back in. Done deal, stock pin. :P
pete

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Postby peobryant » Fri Jan 09, 2009 8:41 pm

PToombs wrote:
'91 Cummins wrote:Plus, if for some reason you want to go back to stock, you can just put the stock pin back in, unless you grind it of course... :P


Just take it out, turn it around, and put it back in. Done deal, stock pin. :P


I have been wondering about that.What would be the point of rotating the stock pin then? It wouldn't be technically"stock" if you ground it, and then rotate it right?
Parker
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1972 Mercedes-Benz 220D, OM615 Diesel, 4 Speed Manual
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Postby PToombs » Sat Jan 10, 2009 8:50 am

You only grind 1 side, actually. The other side should still have the stock shape.
You can do what you want, I just don't see the need to spend $100 for something I can do myself. I've had good luck with mine, and many others have home ground pins too.
To each his own! ;)
pete

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Postby Richie O » Sat Jan 10, 2009 11:44 am

I always wondered if you could hard surface weld a pin. I had thought about filling in the shallowest side with weld and then grinding through the original pin into the weld on the back side for even more fuel than a stock pin ground. I have seen pictures of stock pins ground very thin. I am sure I would break mine. Thats the way my luck goes.
1989 W250 727, 3.07 L/S, S300, P/S Intercooler, Stans exaust, Pump adjustments, 127k miles,297 hp
1993 W250 extended cab, rag, 4.10 l/s, 6x16's, HTT 62/71/14 piston l/p, Isspro EV series tach, fuel pressure, boost, oil pres, water temp, volt, pryo, 132k/ 301 hp
1992 W250 with NV4500, 3.54's, 16cm 60mm GDS H1C, ground stock cone, Isspro tach, pryo, boost, fuel pressure, slow, rusty, dented,180k
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Postby peobryant » Sat Jan 10, 2009 5:58 pm

PToombs wrote:You only grind 1 side, actually. The other side should still have the stock shape.
You can do what you want, I just don't see the need to spend $100 for something I can do myself. I've had good luck with mine, and many others have home ground pins too.
To each his own! ;)


I know you only grind one side. I hear people talking about rotating the fuel pin, and getting more power, is it really that noticable? What side do you grind?
Parker
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1972 Mercedes-Benz 220D, OM615 Diesel, 4 Speed Manual
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