water meth issues

[1991cummins]

ok, i just installed my cooling mist water meth kit... it seemed to act real funny after the first run, like it was miss-firing or something...

its set to come on at ten psi, (or at least thats what they said the boost switch was set at)... i think it needs to be after that, but i havent had a chance to adjust... i have the 12 gallon per hour and the 6 gallon injectors teed in to work together right after the intercooler... the 12 per hour is about an inch after the cooler, and the 6 is about 6-7" down the tube...

i had a real long run, in fourth, at about 38 psi, and then when i turned into the high school it acted like it was missing, or idling real rough... even when i gave it a little more fuel, it still acted like i had a cylinder or two missing... then by the time i got to my spot it acted completely normal... is it possible that i flooded it, like built up a bunch in there? did i run too much, with a 12 and a 6? am i not getting fast enough flow with my 3" cooler hoses? what could it be? it sounded real bad though...

im also not seeing almost any temp difference im running pure water for now btw

Derek

[Ace]

I think you are giving it too much. I set mine to start coming in at 16psi and I only get up to 30psi max. Otherwise it's spraying w/m all the time. Only time I want it under a good load where it makes a useable difference.

[SNOOT]

What you are describing sounds more like a injection pump being drained. What kind of fuel supply pump do you have?

I also run water/meth and can tell you what you describe sounds more like pump cavitaiton.

[BC847]

I'm with Ace, what you are seeing is too much W/M AFTER you've gotten off the throttle.

I'm assuming you're working with an adjustable Hobbs type pressure switch.

I'm also assuming you're running the 150psig pump . . . . ?

If that's the case, consider raising the pressure switch to no less than 20psig. If it were me, I'd raise it to 25psig. That will help have the system NOT come on unnecessarily with normal driving. It will also help with the quenching of the fire when getting off the throttle.

You may also consider not running the 6gph nozzle with the 12gph . . . .for now.
Think about the 38psig boost canceling out 38psig pressure available from the W/M pump. If it's a 150psig pump, minus the 38psig boost, then there's 112psig pressure for the nozzle(s). It's my understanding that most cooling-mist nozzles are rated at 100psig (actual NET pressure at the nozzle). Running the two nozzles will mean that neither is getting at least 100psig each. As such, they tend to dribble more than mist (if they were the same in size, one could divide the pressure to see more accurately what they're getting).


That stumbling after a hard pass is the W/M that's all over the inside of the charge-air plumbing, etc still getting into the cylinders . . . . with now much less air and fuel to burn it off.

[Begle1]

I must have abnormal amounts of luck with my system; 30 GPH starts coming on at 5 PSI/ 800 EGT and is fully online by 15 PSI.

I wonder how much of that is my super-secret nozzles?

[BC847]

Begel, assuming your multi-staged system is finely atomizing the brew, and it's not falling out of the charge-air, you shouldn't see an issue as here.

He's got a number of turns to get past with where he's got his nozzles.

You ever figure out the tool-lube additive for the pressure washer?

[1991cummins]

well, i do have the hobbs switch, i also believe i have the 150psi pump? so you think i might not be getting a proper mist? thats what the coolingmist guy suggested to start out with and then change as needed... so idk... and another thing, i cant figure out a good way to adjust that switch i was trying to use a tire guage, and a regulator, but that wasnt working worth a sh*t... i couldnt find a good pressure it would come on at, it seemed to vary... i was starting to question the accuracy of that switch so all and all i dont know what to think...

and to top it off on the way home today, i blew a boot! god...

[1991cummins]

and by the way snoot, i have a piston lp... all stock from the tank... i dont really think that was the problem though? but i am open to suggestions...

[1991cummins]

wait, i have looked at a few other peoples set ups, coming in right at the intake manifold almost... into a grid delete for the most part, like aces setup... mine is injecting RIGHT after the intercooler... is this a good spot? it seems that once you cool the charged air it should remain cool, right? because its the compressing process itself that heats the air, so once you cool it its cooled right?

because i was not seeing any real temp difference... and it worried me... cause i paid enough money for this to be pissed if it doesnt work

thanks,
Derek

[SNOOT]

Not going to suggest anything new just want to point out were I inject my water/meth. I do run a stock lp. Just turn the water/meth off and try it again. See if you can repeat your problem with no water.

[1991cummins]

is there any reason that would be any better than what i have? it worries me that the consensus seems to think to inject somewhere else, but then again i am a 1st genner, so i tend to think outside the box and cannot find any reason why it would be better to inject later...

please let me know if you know why...

plus i dont wana plug those holes and retap somewhere else haha

Derek

[BC847]

Derek, the idea is to keep the W/M in suspension with the charge-air and uniformly distributed to all the cylinders. As such there's plenty of water droplets entering the cylinder so it can absorb heat there. We're not necessarily trying to cool the charge-air itself specifically. That's why most of the big-dawgs inject directly to the intake valves.

Having the injection further up the line has the fog have to negotiate all the twists and turns and more often than not, the fog gets caught in the turns by "Impingement" (the air goes around the bend, the fog wipes out and hits the outer wall of the turn).

[1991cummins]

yah, i understand that theory... so do you think i will see any real cooling benefits from running it farther down the intake track? because right now im not sure i have even noticed any real cooling... i am running -20 degree windshield cleaner now...

[1991cummins]

ok, i got the POD's in the truck (god damn is it fast!!!)... my butt dyno loves them!

but, i have been periodically disconnecting the water meth, and then reconnecting it... i cant notice a difference in power or temperature... so idk... what should be my next step... move it farther up i reckon? and like bc847 said, is it possible that running both injectors is not allowing them to spray good? should i only run one 12 per hour?

what should i expect with good water meth results, cause i can hit 1300* in a heartbeat @ 40lbs now...

[dpuckett]

Re- install your nozzles in your intake horn. By the time the charge air gets around all the bends and through the fins of the intercooler, you are probably lucky to get half the W/M atomized and into the cylinders. Every bend will slow it down, and thus, make the droplets bigger. That could have also put out your fire.