Fuel PIn Questions

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Fuel PIn Questions

Postby cedardiesel » Thu Jan 22, 2009 6:12 pm

How far can the pin that rides on the fuel pin travel outwards before ruining the seal? Also how far does the fuel pin itself travel downwards? What Type of steel do I need to use to make a fuel pin? Sorry for so many questions but trying to make my own Fuel Pin so Any specifications or tips are greatly appreciated.
90 W250 4x4 5spd pump Ve cranked wide open, BHAF, HX35 with all 2.5" intake piping, and 4" straight piped
92 W250 4x4 5spd P-pumped B1B over B2 are on and now slippy clutch
cedardiesel
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Postby Richie O » Thu Jan 22, 2009 6:39 pm

I do know it has to be wicked hard steel. ( we say wicked in Maine ) :lol: The soft steel grooves easy. I saw a pic of a aftermarket pin that had a good groove worn in it.
Last edited by Richie O on Thu Jan 22, 2009 11:09 pm, edited 1 time in total.
1989 W250 727, 3.07 L/S, S300, P/S Intercooler, Stans exaust, Pump adjustments, 127k miles,297 hp
1993 W250 extended cab, rag, 4.10 l/s, 6x16's, HTT 62/71/14 piston l/p, Isspro EV series tach, fuel pressure, boost, oil pres, water temp, volt, pryo, 132k/ 301 hp
1992 W250 with NV4500, 3.54's, 16cm 60mm GDS H1C, ground stock cone, Isspro tach, pryo, boost, fuel pressure, slow, rusty, dented,180k
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Postby cedardiesel » Thu Jan 22, 2009 8:54 pm

yea I knew that cause I remember hearing that BD pin does it bad that is why im using stainless then getting it heat treated
90 W250 4x4 5spd pump Ve cranked wide open, BHAF, HX35 with all 2.5" intake piping, and 4" straight piped
92 W250 4x4 5spd P-pumped B1B over B2 are on and now slippy clutch
cedardiesel
fuel screw!!!!
 
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Joined: Fri Jun 20, 2008 8:49 pm
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Postby mprmn08 » Thu Jan 22, 2009 10:31 pm

probably just a good tool steel i would imagin but i dont know really for sure.
93 w250 reg cab. rigged up stock downpipe to 4 inch to 5 inch exhaust from p.o. mild pump tweaks and all other stock for now. Project "smoke a little smoke". www.c-techperformance.com
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Postby burnt_servo » Thu Jan 22, 2009 11:25 pm

i'm seriously thinking about making one out of brass and seeing how long it lasts before grooving ( and using a sythetic greese to lube the pin ).

a guy can also make one out of a soft mild steel , then use a hard surfacing welding rod to put several tack welds on the wear surface , then regrind the welds smooth .

can't rememeber who i was talking about this with , but the shaft of some electric motors are the right size , and a fairly hard high quality steel .

a person could also , if he's very careful , take the stock pin and build up the ground out area with weld , then regrind it .

if a guy can get the use of a lathe .... i wonder how a wheel stud might work once it is machined down and polished ?
'93 w250 .... stock ...
curently removing the dead moose parts ....
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Postby cedardiesel » Fri Jan 23, 2009 5:25 am

Hey burn-servo I like your simple thinking I never bout using a whell stud that might actually work but I know brass will groove and I was told to use stainless and them heat treat after its made or 4140HT that is the best cause of the hardness and able to be polished but yall keep the ideals coming.
90 W250 4x4 5spd pump Ve cranked wide open, BHAF, HX35 with all 2.5" intake piping, and 4" straight piped
92 W250 4x4 5spd P-pumped B1B over B2 are on and now slippy clutch
cedardiesel
fuel screw!!!!
 
Posts: 141
Joined: Fri Jun 20, 2008 8:49 pm
Location: Lebanon
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Postby Richie O » Fri Jan 23, 2009 10:26 am

I had thought about hard surface welding but I wonder if the heat would warp it. I think when the time comes I will be buying a denny t or a M&H pin.
1989 W250 727, 3.07 L/S, S300, P/S Intercooler, Stans exaust, Pump adjustments, 127k miles,297 hp
1993 W250 extended cab, rag, 4.10 l/s, 6x16's, HTT 62/71/14 piston l/p, Isspro EV series tach, fuel pressure, boost, oil pres, water temp, volt, pryo, 132k/ 301 hp
1992 W250 with NV4500, 3.54's, 16cm 60mm GDS H1C, ground stock cone, Isspro tach, pryo, boost, fuel pressure, slow, rusty, dented,180k
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Postby Begle1 » Fri Jan 23, 2009 10:35 am

Who's M&H?
1990 D-250 Regular Cab: Tweaked injection pump, built transmission, a cataclysmic charlie foxtrot of electronics, the most intense street-ran water injection system in the country, and some more unique stuff.
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Postby Richie O » Fri Jan 23, 2009 11:14 am

Alwaysworking on DTR.


I found a picture last night.


Image

.
1989 W250 727, 3.07 L/S, S300, P/S Intercooler, Stans exaust, Pump adjustments, 127k miles,297 hp
1993 W250 extended cab, rag, 4.10 l/s, 6x16's, HTT 62/71/14 piston l/p, Isspro EV series tach, fuel pressure, boost, oil pres, water temp, volt, pryo, 132k/ 301 hp
1992 W250 with NV4500, 3.54's, 16cm 60mm GDS H1C, ground stock cone, Isspro tach, pryo, boost, fuel pressure, slow, rusty, dented,180k
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Postby burnt_servo » Fri Jan 23, 2009 11:48 am

Richie O wrote:I had thought about hard surface welding but I wonder if the heat would warp it. I think when the time comes I will be buying a denny t or a M&H pin.


you would need to use small tack welds , spaced evenly ..... then when done it would be a good idea to toss it into a lathe to square it up .
'93 w250 .... stock ...
curently removing the dead moose parts ....
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fuel screw!!!!
 
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Postby Ace » Sat Jan 24, 2009 9:42 am

My BD pin's almost 2 years old, no groove - just a nice wide witness mark from where I clock it back and forth a degree or two every few months. But I wouldn't try it with brass.
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Postby ccoxva » Thu Jan 29, 2009 7:37 pm

My old smokey has a pretty severe groove and only been used about 3000 miles..
1991 N/I 250
1996 Dodge 3500 Ex. Cab Dually 19.5's
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