Back to the drawing board again.../can I still compete?

[redneckroot]

The p pumped 94 motor fell through so its back to the 90 motor going back in the project. Money is tight right now but I would like to take care of anything that I can afford to right now. What should I do to the motor while I have it out? I would like to someday end up at 400hp, and I would like to only buy things once if at all possible.

[CumminsPride]

Tab the KDP and reseal the mains and pan. Weld a drain bung in tha pan while it's off incase you want to build twins later. Heck if nothing else, clean it and repaint it.

[PToombs]

CP pretty well covered it. Remove and Loctite the timing case bolts by the cam also. Replace the tappet cover gasket too. It's a SOB in the truck.

[redneckroot]

What size does it need to be in the pan?
Does anyone know if they make a clear coat engine paint? I'd really like to clear coat this set of valve covers once I finish polishing the last one otherwise they will end up looking like crap in a year.

[CumminsPride]

3/4" npt should do it. Just put a brass plug in till you need it, not steel.

[Richie O]

I would not think the clearcoat for the valve covers would need to be high temp engine paint. They do not get that hot. DO THEY?

[redneckroot]

I tried regular clear coat a few years ago on an aluminum air cleaner housing for my race car, and it ended up turning yellow. I was told by the manufacture that it was from the heat. If I can't clear coat these I'm going to paint them.


On a different note here is what I'm thinking so far for power: Step one (until I can get some more cash): Dennyt fuel pin, gauges, 366 spring, 1/2 lines with carter electric fuel pump, 4" exhaust to 5" stack, reuse my air filter set up, intercool it with help from the cooler tubez, what turbo do I need? I want to finish around or slightly over 400hp when I'm done but money is tight. Links to a turbo would be very helpful.

Step two: Injectors 6x 16s or larger (what size and where should i go when the time comes?)

[PToombs]

Guages 1st!
Then if you want to save money, grind your own pin.
Make sure the fuel pump doesn't push more than 25-30 psi.
4" exhaust is good. Stock air filter won't be enough if you turn it up much. For a turbo, save your money and get that and the injectors at the same time. I can tell you that you are going to need a S300 based turbo for those injectors. Any variation of HIC or HX 35 won't cut it.
And I think with stock injectors you won't be able to spool the S300. I could be wrong, and I'm sure someone will correct me if I am.
Where to go for injectors? Chuck at New Era of course!

[Richie O]

Pete, I have stock non i/c injectors and spool my 57mm just fine. Not sure if you meant the 57 or the 62mm model.

[peobryant]

Pete, I have stock non i/c injectors and spool my 57mm just fine. Not sure if you meant the 57 or the 62mm model.

With 400rwhp, he will need the 62 model. Maybe more than that...

As far as injectors, if you want a cheap (as in price, not quality) I agree with Pete. New Era will do any custom injectors for $700, compared to other shops that charge well over 1K, I'm not sure if the others run any better than the New Era ones though.

[CumminsPride]

I had my good stockers EDM'd by JL Machine for 3bills. That's $400 left for ?????? Chuck does great work but on a tight budget I would run a cheaper edm. I realize your stockers are 4 hole but what about a set of 4x.018's?

[redneckroot]

I already have a "cold air" set up that i made about three days after I bought it. Where do you suggest I get any of these turbos? Turbos are something I know nothing really about. Would I be able to get away with having my injectors honed?

[peobryant]

I already have a "cold air" set up that i made about three days after I bought it. Where do you suggest I get any of these turbos? Turbos are something I know nothing really about. Would I be able to get away with having my injectors honed?

A 62/71/14 new will run well over 1K, and some used ones come pretty close to that mark. They are worth it though.

As for you injectors, 1st Gens like 6 hole injectors the most, so you would be better off with either a 6X.018 or 6X.016 injector.

[redneckroot]

well here are the rules they just came out, this isn't going to be 100% a pulling truck but i would like to at least be somewhat competitive.
STREET 4x4 DIESEL TRUCKS

1. All general safety rules apply.
2. All trucks must be licensed for the highway, and must provide license and registration
3. Class weight will be 8,000 lbs.
4. All trucks are subject to random tech inspection (inside and out) at Tech Official’s discretion.
5. Trucks must have full interior/exterior and must be stock in appearance. All factory controls must be operative. Trucks must be a street-driven vehicle.
6. Hanging weights are NOT allowed. Front bumpers must be unaltered.
7. NO after-market transfer cases or transmissions are allowed. Must be OEM and available in 1-ton and smaller.
8. Engine must be out of factory 1-ton or smaller pickups. Engine swaps ARE allowed.
9. DOT tires ONLY; no studs, cut, or sharpened tires will be allowed.
10. Single turbochargers ONLY; inlet to be no larger than 2.5 with no sleeved, slots, of stepped wheels
11. Injection pumps must be stock-appearing, dual CP3 pumps or multiple high pressure; common rail pumps are prohibited.
12. Traction/ladder bars ARE allowed.
13. NO nitrous, propane, alcohol, water injection will be allowed ~ diesel only.
14. Trucks must have OEM fuel tanks—fuel cell prohibited.
15. Bell housing blankets are required for engines turning over 4200 rpm for all transmissions, unless proof of certified clutch and flywheel can be shown.
16. Must pull from a Reese-style hitch. Hook point must be at the furthest point of the vehicle, and must be at least 3.5-inch ID ring or clevis.
17. Maximum hitch height is 26 inches.
18. Rear suspension must have at least 2 inches of movement before hitting stops.
19. All exhaust must discharge upward.

[redneckroot]

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