Best mods for my Motorhome?

[peobryant]

I would upgrade the exhaust to at least a 4", all the way. You can run a muffler if you want, but if you do, make sure t is a "straight thru" muffler, those are the least restrictive.

As far as water injection there is no reason why you wouldn't be able to run it with your setup, and there is no question that it would lower EGT's, but you may not need it. Get the gauges, and find your baseline.

I will see if I can find a "How To" with pictures that will explain how to hook up the different gauges.

[finn188]

I would upgrade the exhaust to at least a 4", all the way. You can run a muffler if you want, but if you do, make sure t is a "straight thru" muffler, those are the least restrictive.

As far as water injection there is no reason why you wouldn't be able to run it with your setup, and there is no question that it would lower EGT's, but you may not need it. Get the gauges, and find your baseline.

I will see if I can find a "How To" with pictures that will explain how to hook up the different gauges.

Okay, so here is the latest plan after everyones input so far:

1- pyrometer/trans/boost gauges and see where I'm at fully loaded towing up hill WOT
2- 4" Exhaust no muffler
3- No one has stated any cons, but a 388? spring
4- if temps are good still mildly tweak pump, possibly h2o injection
I know I still need to get the numbers off of the eng/turbo still to go any further.....I will get that asap

[peobryant]

I would upgrade the exhaust to at least a 4", all the way. You can run a muffler if you want, but if you do, make sure t is a "straight thru" muffler, those are the least restrictive.

As far as water injection there is no reason why you wouldn't be able to run it with your setup, and there is no question that it would lower EGT's, but you may not need it. Get the gauges, and find your baseline.

I will see if I can find a "How To" with pictures that will explain how to hook up the different gauges.

Okay, so here is the latest plan after everyones input so far:

1- pyrometer/trans/boost gauges and see where I'm at fully loaded towing up hill WOT
2- 4" Exhaust no muffler
3- No one has stated any cons, but a 388? spring
4- if temps are good still mildly tweak pump, possibly h2o injection
I know I still need to get the numbers off of the eng/turbo still to go any further.....I will get that asap

Number 3, you are talking about the 366 spring. It will allow the pump to fuel to 3200 RPM, and there are absolutely zero cons to it. Other than the staggering $18 you have to spend on it.

[finn188]

Yeah, I tried to edit that to 366; guess it didnt work. So I printed out a good write up on doing the spring. Where is the best place to get a high quality spring? So at what RPM do these engines "over rev"? Thanks

[PToombs]

They're over reved when the valves start to float.
You can get the spring at the local fuel shop/Bosch dealer. Get a gasket kit too, they're only $20, and you have all the gaskets you need.

My buddy was looking into water or water/meth also, not sure why he didn't do it. I'll ask him and let you know. He was thinking the same thing, 60 gallon water tank= long drive before running out.
I'd even be cautios about the 366 spring, because it will give more fuel all across the band. That's not a bad thing, unless you're close to too hot already.

[peobryant]

Yeah, I tried to edit that to 366; guess it didnt work. So I printed out a good write up on doing the spring. Where is the best place to get a high quality spring? So at what RPM do these engines "over rev"? Thanks

Like Pete said, you can get them at a Bosch dealer, but if you don't have one close, they are all over the internet, and eBay. Go to google and search for 366 spring or something of the sort, and you should find what you need.

[ontos]

My 1st gen is a non I/C in a 1990 Allegro front engine on a freightliner chassis. 30 ft. Was 160hp. 545 Allison.
When you have the gauges you can see where you stand. I turned my pump up but pulling hills it got too hot so I backed it off a little, until I made some improvements.

Didn't see if this was said but change the filters and see if there is an electric transfer pump to bring fuel to the mechanical pump on the engine. Mine has a Walbro 12volt pump with a screen in it that was plugged and limited the fuel flow.

Air in is important, check inbound air filter. I upgraded the turbo, (but yours would be different I thinK )and added a free flowing 4" muffler. I tried no muffler but my collision warning device( my wife) deemed it to be too loud. With a pusher that may not be a problem.

With the above I got temps down and power up.

With a pusher you have a long throttle control system and you'd want to check that for full travel.


I pull a full sized Malibu and while I can go 65/70 the rig is most comfortable around 60 to 65.

I thought about water meth but EGT now seem OK.

You could flat tow your jeep I think.

Lots of non engine things to check on an older MH Tires brakes etc. but with a little time and effort they can be a great way to travel.

Lots of good info here.

[ontos]

Might have been said, but you really need as much specific info as you can get. Lots of differences between engines of different years.
Who manufactured the chasis?

I can't overstate how much help these folks here can give you. Just don't let Pete Toombs enter your motorhome in a tractor pull.

[Richie O]

I can't overstate how much help these folks here can give you. Just don't let Pete Toombs enter your motorhome in a tractor pull.

What did he do? Pee in the sink again.

[ontos]

I can't overstate how much help these folks here can give you. Just don't let Pete Toombs enter your motorhome in a tractor pull.

What did he do? Pee in the sink again.

Good point I should have said "Don't let Pete Toombs enter your motorhome "at" a tractor pull.

[finn188]

Might have been said, but you really need as much specific info as you can get. Lots of differences between engines of different years.
Who manufactured the chasis?

I can't overstate how much help these folks here can give you. Just don't let Pete Toombs enter your motorhome in a tractor pull.

I spent about 20 min. last night looking for numbers on the engine; all I found was that the turbo is a Holeset. Does that help? The chassis is made by Oshkosh.

[ontos]

Osgosh sold it's MH chassis unit to freightliner. Freightliner local dealer can direct you to info on the chassis, or you can call them in South Carolina if and when you need it. They seemed pretty helpful.

You are looking for a small plate with engine number and other info.
It is near the front topside of the engine on the injector pump/ intake side just above the mounting for the injector pump. I know your engine is in "backward" and you may not have much access. Might be possible to get a look from underneath. The plate might be covered in dirt

Maybe someone can give a better discription or post a picture.

[finn188]

Osgosh sold it's MH chassis unit to freightliner. Freightliner local dealer can direct you to info on the chassis, or you can call them in South Carolina if and when you need it. They seemed pretty helpful.

You are looking for a small plate with engine number and other info.
It is near the front topside of the engine on the injector pump/ intake side just above the mounting for the injector pump. I know your engine is in "backward" and you may not have much access. Might be possible to get a look from underneath. The plate might be covered in dirt

Maybe someone can give a better discription or post a picture.

Yes, there is a layer of dust on the engine. I will spray it down tomorrow and look there. Thanks.

[SChandler]

This is a picture of the injection pump on my truck. You can see the data plate to the left of the injection pump on the end of the timing case. That is the plate with the information on it that will help you determine what the specs are for the engine (HP rating, serial #, CPL - used by Cummins to look up engine specific parts, timing, etc.).



Edit: Ignore the red arrow. I used this pic to show where the manual shutdown lever is on the pump in another thread.

[finn188]

This is a picture of the injection pump on my truck. You can see the data plate to the left of the injection pump on the end of the timing case. That is the plate with the information on it that will help you determine what the specs are for the engine (HP rating, serial #, CPL - used by Cummins to look up engine specific parts, timing, etc.).



Edit: Ignore the red arrow. I used this pic to show where the manual shutdown lever is on the pump in another thread.

Thanks I will find it no problem now im sure.