What should I do

How to make it go fast

Moderators: Greenleaf, KTA, BC847, Richie O

What should I do

Postby lectro_static » Tue Mar 03, 2009 5:47 pm

Hi,

Im new here, have read alot of posts but still am unsure. I am going to get injectors for my truck, a fuel pin and a bit later upgrade the turbo. I am after 300hp or so. I do daily drive this and will haul a camper and trailer with my baja, sandrail and quad.
What would the best way for me to go be? I want to be able to blot out the sun but do not want to billow smoke when Im just driving. This leads me to another question, what do you guys think of adding a couple VW cold start injectors to the intake on a toggle switch so when I want to roll the coal I can but normally wouldnt. Would be kinda interesting but I would be a bit worries about the amount of extra fuel Id be dumping in when the switch is on.
I have my boost and pyro gauge on the way now and when I put those in this weekend I will be doing 4" exhaust at the same time. I have the full power screw up to the collar and the star wheel is about 120* and fine smoke adjust is up 3 turns. What are safe EGTs? The same as a gas motor or less?

Thanks in advance for any and all advice given

Mike
soon to be 1985 Chevy crew cab with 93 cummins running gear
weeping head gasket
4" straight pipe
M&H M3 fuel pin
M&H Dynamic Timing Advance
366 spring
Full power screw bottomed out no runaway
Auto Meter EGT and Boost
User avatar
lectro_static
fuel screw!!!!
 
Posts: 371
Joined: Fri Feb 27, 2009 10:58 pm
Location: Portland, Oregon

Re: What should I do

Postby Richie O » Tue Mar 03, 2009 8:49 pm

lectro_static wrote:Hi,

Im new here, have read alot of posts but still am unsure. I am going to get injectors for my truck, a fuel pin and a bit later upgrade the turbo. I am after 300hp or so. I do daily drive this and will haul a camper and trailer with my baja, sandrail and quad.
What would the best way for me to go be? I want to be able to blot out the sun but do not want to billow smoke when Im just driving. This leads me to another question, what do you guys think of adding a couple VW cold start injectors to the intake on a toggle switch so when I want to roll the coal I can but normally wouldnt. Would be kinda interesting but I would be a bit worries about the amount of extra fuel Id be dumping in when the switch is on.
I have my boost and pyro gauge on the way now and when I put those in this weekend I will be doing 4" exhaust at the same time. I have the full power screw up to the collar and the star wheel is about 120* and fine smoke adjust is up 3 turns. What are safe EGTs? The same as a gas motor or less?

Thanks in advance for any and all advice given

Mike



I would not inject diesel in the intake. Sounds bad to me. Get your gauges in and see where your numbers are. You can tune from those. I would not get to crazy turning up the power if you want the truck to work. I am at 297 hp and there is no way I could use the power towing. Its hot just playing around empty. Towing above 1200 is a bad thing. I personally would not want to see over 1100 degrees at wide open throttle if it was a working truck. 1250 is supposed to be ok but what if your gauge is off a little and it smokes the engine. Not worth it to me anyway. Also at sustained high egt's the heat will soak into the rest of the engine and after a while overheat the cooling system. Towing and high hp don't mix real good unless you spend a lot of bucks on a twin turbo set up and the rest of the mods that go along with high boost.
1989 W250 727, 3.07 L/S, S300, P/S Intercooler, Stans exaust, Pump adjustments, 127k miles,297 hp
1993 W250 extended cab, rag, 4.10 l/s, 6x16's, HTT 62/71/14 piston l/p, Isspro EV series tach, fuel pressure, boost, oil pres, water temp, volt, pryo, 132k/ 301 hp
1992 W250 with NV4500, 3.54's, 16cm 60mm GDS H1C, ground stock cone, Isspro tach, pryo, boost, fuel pressure, slow, rusty, dented,180k
User avatar
Richie O
Administrator
 
Posts: 4171
Joined: Sat May 17, 2008 9:01 pm
Location: New England

Postby peobryant » Tue Mar 03, 2009 8:54 pm

For a truck that will tow a whole lot, 300-350rwhp seems to be perfect. I know of one fellow with a 1st Gen that tows his pulling truck. He has 370's and an HX-40 and says the truck does perfect. Brian's puller also has 370's and about 300rwhp.

I wouldn't be playing with any screws for a truck that will be working though.
Parker
1991 Dodge Ram D350, Cummins Turbo Diesel, A518
1972 Mercedes-Benz 220D, OM615 Diesel, 4 Speed Manual
User avatar
peobryant
14mm rotor
 
Posts: 1946
Joined: Thu Dec 27, 2007 1:07 am
Location: Goshen, Ky
Top

Re: What should I do

Postby Begle1 » Tue Mar 03, 2009 9:05 pm

Why care that the truck can go over 1200 degrees while working if you don't go over 1200 degrees? I don't understand that mentality; I have the pyro to know when to back out of the throttle. Cummins specs anywhere from 1200 to 1300 degrees as the max sustained EGT, I don't think it hurts anything in the slightest and have ran in the range for hours on end. Granted I was unloaded, but I don't think it makes much of a difference to the engine. The biggest problem seems to be the rapid overheating of the cooling system at those sustained EGT's with warm weather.

I've heard stories of one guy spraying Diesel into the intake under full throttle; he said it worked. I think it's bull crap. I don't see why Diesel, with it's octane rating of really-low, won't preignite like a mofo in a warm engine under full throttle with turbo boost added on top. Fumigated fuels in the intake work great as long as they are high octane; propane, methanol and hydrogen are all over 110.

Unfortunately propane, methanol and hydrogen all reduce smoke instead of adding it... Any decently-sized injectors will put out tons of smoke if lagged without boost, if you want more after that you can inject the Diesel into the exhaust.
1990 D-250 Regular Cab: Tweaked injection pump, built transmission, a cataclysmic charlie foxtrot of electronics, the most intense street-ran water injection system in the country, and some more unique stuff.
User avatar
Begle1
14mm rotor
 
Posts: 1968
Joined: Sat Jan 06, 2007 5:31 pm
Location: Kihei, Maui, Hawaii
Top

Postby Richie O » Tue Mar 03, 2009 9:15 pm

Its all personal preference. I don't like running hot for more then a few seconds. Thats just me. I don't like to take chances when it costs a fortune to fix the engines.
1989 W250 727, 3.07 L/S, S300, P/S Intercooler, Stans exaust, Pump adjustments, 127k miles,297 hp
1993 W250 extended cab, rag, 4.10 l/s, 6x16's, HTT 62/71/14 piston l/p, Isspro EV series tach, fuel pressure, boost, oil pres, water temp, volt, pryo, 132k/ 301 hp
1992 W250 with NV4500, 3.54's, 16cm 60mm GDS H1C, ground stock cone, Isspro tach, pryo, boost, fuel pressure, slow, rusty, dented,180k
User avatar
Richie O
Administrator
 
Posts: 4171
Joined: Sat May 17, 2008 9:01 pm
Location: New England
Top

Postby pulltilbroke » Tue Mar 03, 2009 10:38 pm

What the hell Richie, no sense of adventure? :lol:

You'd probly s#!$ yourself if you saw my pyro during a hook :shock:

1100 lol that downright cold in my book
90 W250 reg cab, Modified knuder valve, reversed reciprocting dinglearm adjusted, High volume flux capacitor,upgraded whirlygig, A clutch and a hitch
93 W350 ext cab dually, getrag and a few adjustments
pulltilbroke
14mm rotor
 
Posts: 1410
Joined: Fri Jan 18, 2008 1:20 am
Location: Eagle Ne
Top

Postby peobryant » Tue Mar 03, 2009 11:05 pm

Richie O wrote:Its all personal preference. I don't like running hot for more then a few seconds. Thats just me. I don't like to take chances when it costs a fortune to fix the engines.


I agree with you. I don't like to see anything over 1200*, and I don't even like seeing 1200* for more than a few seconds.

Pulltilbroke, is you puller also you daily driver?
Parker
1991 Dodge Ram D350, Cummins Turbo Diesel, A518
1972 Mercedes-Benz 220D, OM615 Diesel, 4 Speed Manual
User avatar
peobryant
14mm rotor
 
Posts: 1946
Joined: Thu Dec 27, 2007 1:07 am
Location: Goshen, Ky
Top

Postby pulltilbroke » Tue Mar 03, 2009 11:19 pm

'91 Cummins wrote:
Richie O wrote:Its all personal preference. I don't like running hot for more then a few seconds. Thats just me. I don't like to take chances when it costs a fortune to fix the engines.


I agree with you. I don't like to see anything over 1200*, and I don't even like seeing 1200* for more than a few seconds.

Pulltilbroke, is you puller also you daily driver?


Yep, sure is. I drive it everyday of the week, even during the pullin season(unless it's broke) :D
90 W250 reg cab, Modified knuder valve, reversed reciprocting dinglearm adjusted, High volume flux capacitor,upgraded whirlygig, A clutch and a hitch
93 W350 ext cab dually, getrag and a few adjustments
pulltilbroke
14mm rotor
 
Posts: 1410
Joined: Fri Jan 18, 2008 1:20 am
Location: Eagle Ne
Top

Postby peobryant » Tue Mar 03, 2009 11:21 pm

pulltilbroke wrote:
'91 Cummins wrote:
Richie O wrote:Its all personal preference. I don't like running hot for more then a few seconds. Thats just me. I don't like to take chances when it costs a fortune to fix the engines.


I agree with you. I don't like to see anything over 1200*, and I don't even like seeing 1200* for more than a few seconds.

Pulltilbroke, is you puller also you daily driver?


Yep, sure is. I drive it everyday of the week, even during the pullin season(unless it's broke) :D


Are you still running the 12mm H/R?
Parker
1991 Dodge Ram D350, Cummins Turbo Diesel, A518
1972 Mercedes-Benz 220D, OM615 Diesel, 4 Speed Manual
User avatar
peobryant
14mm rotor
 
Posts: 1946
Joined: Thu Dec 27, 2007 1:07 am
Location: Goshen, Ky
Top

Postby pulltilbroke » Tue Mar 03, 2009 11:31 pm

Yep, 12mm 300,XXX mile pump thats never been off the truck :D
90 W250 reg cab, Modified knuder valve, reversed reciprocting dinglearm adjusted, High volume flux capacitor,upgraded whirlygig, A clutch and a hitch
93 W350 ext cab dually, getrag and a few adjustments
pulltilbroke
14mm rotor
 
Posts: 1410
Joined: Fri Jan 18, 2008 1:20 am
Location: Eagle Ne
Top

Postby peobryant » Tue Mar 03, 2009 11:35 pm

pulltilbroke wrote:Yep, 12mm 300,XXX mile pump thats never been off the truck :D


Thats what I was assuming. I've heard the 14mm H/R doesn't like daily driving conditions. Do you ever plan you make the truck a full time puller?
Parker
1991 Dodge Ram D350, Cummins Turbo Diesel, A518
1972 Mercedes-Benz 220D, OM615 Diesel, 4 Speed Manual
User avatar
peobryant
14mm rotor
 
Posts: 1946
Joined: Thu Dec 27, 2007 1:07 am
Location: Goshen, Ky
Top

Postby pulltilbroke » Tue Mar 03, 2009 11:49 pm

Yeah, thats the plan after I find another DD

I got one found local but its a slushbox truck :( , but it does run great and is in decent shape
90 W250 reg cab, Modified knuder valve, reversed reciprocting dinglearm adjusted, High volume flux capacitor,upgraded whirlygig, A clutch and a hitch
93 W350 ext cab dually, getrag and a few adjustments
pulltilbroke
14mm rotor
 
Posts: 1410
Joined: Fri Jan 18, 2008 1:20 am
Location: Eagle Ne
Top

Postby peobryant » Tue Mar 03, 2009 11:52 pm

pulltilbroke wrote:Yeah, thats the plan after I find another DD

I got one found local but its a slushbox truck :( , but it does run great and is in decent shape


I wouldn't pass on it just because of the auto. That is pretty easy to fix. :lol:

We need more competitive VE trucks. Some people think the max these pumps can produce is 350rwhp. Richie knows what I'm talking about. Silly Cumminsforum...
Parker
1991 Dodge Ram D350, Cummins Turbo Diesel, A518
1972 Mercedes-Benz 220D, OM615 Diesel, 4 Speed Manual
User avatar
peobryant
14mm rotor
 
Posts: 1946
Joined: Thu Dec 27, 2007 1:07 am
Location: Goshen, Ky
Top

Postby pulltilbroke » Wed Mar 04, 2009 12:06 am

I've been telling myself the same thing, But I'd much rather have a stick truck

I know we need more competitive VE's

There might be a couple of em from Nebraska this year ;)
90 W250 reg cab, Modified knuder valve, reversed reciprocting dinglearm adjusted, High volume flux capacitor,upgraded whirlygig, A clutch and a hitch
93 W350 ext cab dually, getrag and a few adjustments
pulltilbroke
14mm rotor
 
Posts: 1410
Joined: Fri Jan 18, 2008 1:20 am
Location: Eagle Ne
Top

Postby Richie O » Wed Mar 04, 2009 9:03 am

I know your stuck on an standard stick but on the street the autos are faster. If you want to show guys up on the street get a slushbox. There is currently no production trucks faster then mine. Except the roush racing stuff. I like beating brand new dmaxes. 8)
1989 W250 727, 3.07 L/S, S300, P/S Intercooler, Stans exaust, Pump adjustments, 127k miles,297 hp
1993 W250 extended cab, rag, 4.10 l/s, 6x16's, HTT 62/71/14 piston l/p, Isspro EV series tach, fuel pressure, boost, oil pres, water temp, volt, pryo, 132k/ 301 hp
1992 W250 with NV4500, 3.54's, 16cm 60mm GDS H1C, ground stock cone, Isspro tach, pryo, boost, fuel pressure, slow, rusty, dented,180k
User avatar
Richie O
Administrator
 
Posts: 4171
Joined: Sat May 17, 2008 9:01 pm
Location: New England
Top

Next

Return to The good stuff

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 58 guests

cron