Broken Frame

everything but the drivetrain

Moderators: Greenleaf, BC847, Richie O

Broken Frame

Postby Farmboy » Mon Dec 22, 2008 7:06 am

I found out yesterday that the frame where the reese hitch bolts on is split at the bottom corner about 6" :cry: . I was thinking of welding the split and putting a piece of angle iron on the inside and welding it in place. I would have re-drill the holes but I don't know why it wouldn't work. Has anyone ever had this problem? Any other Ideas would be greatly appreciated. :D

Thanks
1990 W350 4X4 NOW INTERCOOLED 5-speed. Boost/Pyro. Few light tweaks to the pump. Now a dually with an aluminum flatbed!!
User avatar
Farmboy
14mm rotor
 
Posts: 620
Joined: Wed Dec 17, 2008 11:47 am
Location: Between the corn fields of Ohio

Postby Philip » Mon Dec 22, 2008 8:33 am

I have seen that problem before.

Angle iron won't fit the radius of the frame very well for a tight fit. A piece of 1/4" steel bent on a brake press will fit better.
93 W350 Club/cab w/duals, buckets & console, B&W flatbed, G56, 6 spd, 3:07 rears, gages, HX40/16, 4" exhaust, 6X.018 sticks, rear air ride suspension
User avatar
Philip
14mm rotor
 
Posts: 1954
Joined: Mon Jan 08, 2007 10:50 am
Location: Indiana

Postby Farmboy » Mon Dec 22, 2008 9:51 am

I had thought about grinding the corner off of the angle iron. but maybe there wouldn't be anything left till you get the right radius in there. I think I like your idea better.
1990 W350 4X4 NOW INTERCOOLED 5-speed. Boost/Pyro. Few light tweaks to the pump. Now a dually with an aluminum flatbed!!
User avatar
Farmboy
14mm rotor
 
Posts: 620
Joined: Wed Dec 17, 2008 11:47 am
Location: Between the corn fields of Ohio
Top

Postby Philip » Mon Dec 22, 2008 10:04 am

If they bend it using a die for 3/8" plate the radis would be just about right. :D
93 W350 Club/cab w/duals, buckets & console, B&W flatbed, G56, 6 spd, 3:07 rears, gages, HX40/16, 4" exhaust, 6X.018 sticks, rear air ride suspension
User avatar
Philip
14mm rotor
 
Posts: 1954
Joined: Mon Jan 08, 2007 10:50 am
Location: Indiana
Top

Postby randyswelding » Mon Dec 22, 2008 5:38 pm

if your on the cheap,grindin the back off the angle iron will work or if you got a friend with a break that way works too,me id do the angle iron and see if there any way to gusset or box that rear section of the frame and DONT undercut on the weld if you do start all over trust me been there done that(when i didnt know how to weld) :D well good luck
'92 D350 cab and chassy,pump turned up with 1/8 timin,coaltriann 6x16 sticks,htt manifold,asa intake cooler tubez,south bend 13" clutch rebuilt G360,ps cooler,industrial super 62 phat shaft turbo,weldin bed.
12 Chevy 3500ltz lifted, deleted, and bed with sae 300 ss hood for new rig
randyswelding
fuel screw!!!!
 
Posts: 306
Joined: Sat May 17, 2008 7:16 pm
Location: okc,ok
Top

Postby Farmboy » Thu Mar 12, 2009 9:02 am

Just thought I would give you guys an update. I tore the bumper and the reese hitch of my truck last weekend and the frame is a little worse than I thought. It is still fixable though. Also the reese hitch is only a class III hitch and is not going to be heavy enough for what I want to do with the truck. So we are going to re-inforce the frame and also build a heavier hitch all at one time and tie the two together. :D
1990 W350 4X4 NOW INTERCOOLED 5-speed. Boost/Pyro. Few light tweaks to the pump. Now a dually with an aluminum flatbed!!
User avatar
Farmboy
14mm rotor
 
Posts: 620
Joined: Wed Dec 17, 2008 11:47 am
Location: Between the corn fields of Ohio
Top

Postby Farmboy » Fri Mar 20, 2009 8:45 am

Got the truck all fixed now! :D fixed the frame and reinforsed the reese hitch. the guy that helped me charged me $75 for his labor and material. Not too bad. just need to wire up my trialer plug and shoot it with some paint :D :D
1990 W350 4X4 NOW INTERCOOLED 5-speed. Boost/Pyro. Few light tweaks to the pump. Now a dually with an aluminum flatbed!!
User avatar
Farmboy
14mm rotor
 
Posts: 620
Joined: Wed Dec 17, 2008 11:47 am
Location: Between the corn fields of Ohio
Top

Postby Richie O » Fri Mar 20, 2009 9:01 am

Thats good. I think I will build my own hitch so it will be strong. I have seen bought hitches fold down pretty easy. I am sure they were overloaded but thats the way I go. :lol:
1989 W250 727, 3.07 L/S, S300, P/S Intercooler, Stans exaust, Pump adjustments, 127k miles,297 hp
1993 W250 extended cab, rag, 4.10 l/s, 6x16's, HTT 62/71/14 piston l/p, Isspro EV series tach, fuel pressure, boost, oil pres, water temp, volt, pryo, 132k/ 301 hp
1992 W250 with NV4500, 3.54's, 16cm 60mm GDS H1C, ground stock cone, Isspro tach, pryo, boost, fuel pressure, slow, rusty, dented,180k
User avatar
Richie O
Administrator
 
Posts: 4171
Joined: Sat May 17, 2008 9:01 pm
Location: New England
Top

Postby Farmboy » Fri Mar 20, 2009 12:14 pm

Yeah we beefed up the hitch pretty good. put it this way. If someone rearends me they will definatly know it. :D

crunch crunch 8)
1990 W350 4X4 NOW INTERCOOLED 5-speed. Boost/Pyro. Few light tweaks to the pump. Now a dually with an aluminum flatbed!!
User avatar
Farmboy
14mm rotor
 
Posts: 620
Joined: Wed Dec 17, 2008 11:47 am
Location: Between the corn fields of Ohio
Top

Postby 90FIRSTGEN CUMMINS » Tue Jul 07, 2009 6:06 pm

Along those lines what is the best class 5 hitch to go with. I recently hauled 5 and a half tons of gravel on my flat trailer and when I got it home I noticed the hitch was headed south and winter is not even close. The hitch itself and where the back bolts of the hitch hook to the frame both bent. So i guess what im asking is what hitches have you guys had luck with.
1990 W250 Non I/C, Mostly stock,4 inch Ex,Fuel Screw Turned Up a Little, 727TF, 366 spring, BHAF, Borgeson Steering Shaft, Under-bed B & M transmission cooler, head lights now on relays(just added)
90FIRSTGEN CUMMINS
fuel screw!!!!
 
Posts: 67
Joined: Thu Mar 26, 2009 9:57 am
Location: Southwestern Pa
Top


Return to Chassis

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 28 guests