Tie rod for '93 W-250 Club Cab

[GHarman]

It came apart at an intersection, last week! There are no new adjustment sleeves available, that Iam aware of! Checked moparparts.com, none in stock. Going to look at the tie rod assy. on "Old Ugly" ('91). Do ya think it would work as a replacement or just a make do? GregH

[RumbleFish]

im sure it will work for now, but if it were my truck, i would be uncomfortable until i got a chance to get under there and give it a good once over and replace whatever is going to fail in the steering system. i mean if this broke, something else could be on its way out next.

have you checked any parts stores? i know its not genuine mopar, but a good quality reproduction (i suggest moog) would be just as good.

[GHarman]

YEP! The sleeve was egged and did not clamp well . The tierod end slipped right out . Talked to the alignment shop and they suggest I weld it :;-| : . Gonna do that on Wednesday. That will get me home. I am looking at fabricating a whole new unit. Just need the parts, found them at;http://completeoffroad.com/c-59903-steering-dana-60.html
looks like something light enough for me to handle in the shop . Just gettin everything right, materials and the correct threaded inserts. This method uses the entire tierod as the adjuster, with LH/RH threaded inserts and locknuts. What do ya think? How about MOOG tierod ends? GregH

[CE_TX]

Give these guys a call, they built me one for my last two Dodge Dana 60s that I had. Good people with excellent customer service.

http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog/Dana60crossover.htm

[GHarman]

CE_TX, WOW! THANKS for this resource! I'll check them out! GregH

[GHarman]

im sure it will work for now, but if it were my truck, i would be uncomfortable until i got a chance to get under there and give it a good once over and replace whatever is going to fail in the steering system. i mean if this broke, something else could be on its way out next.

have you checked any parts stores? i know its not genuine mopar, but a good quality reproduction (i suggest moog) would be just as good.

Rumblefish, I did call NAPA and Carquest. They do not carry or even list the sleeve. Carquest does have the MOOG tierod ends @ $66.00 each. Thanks, GregH

[RumbleFish]

ill check at my store and see if i can find a part number.

[CE_TX]

CE_TX, WOW! THANKS for this resource! I'll check them out! GregH

No problem.

[GHarman]

Gonna make a final decision after the truck gets hauled over to the shop. It does look like a project is brewing. If I can get the tubing and threaded adaptors? I bought the MOOG tierod ends. I located a source of adaptors for $12.00 each, L&R, but the price he quoted me for the tubing was enough to make me gasp for air! 5' of 1 1/2" DOM X 1/2" wall was $185 Chrome Moley tube was in the same price range . I checked the internet sources and found the same tube for $44.00-$56.00 per 5', plus shipping. This will take a spell. I dont do anything quick . Thanks for your input, GregH

[GHarman]

Ordered the threaded inserts and locnuts, L&R, from FourToGo, in Wheatridge. Received those parts. Have 1 1/2"x .188" wall DOM tubing and Bellville washers on order, waiting for their arrival.
The inserts are made by Spidertrax, in Longmont, Colorado. I called them this AM to make certain of the weldability. No "free machining" alloy!
They confirmed that the 1018 CRS in their spec., is not a freemachining steel. GregH

[PToombs]

Greg, what the heck is "free machining steel"? They're gonna charge you to do it?

[GHarman]

Hey Pete! Free Machining steel is a reference to alloys that have metallurgical additives to make the chips flo and the finished cut very shiney. A common freemachining steel has lead, commonly called "leadalloy". Other free machining steels use sulfur, selenium and other elements that really cause problems if those alloys need to be welded. "If it makes it nice fer the machinist, it is usually a nightmare for the weldor " Those alloys can be found across the spectrum of steels. From 1018 to 4130 and 416 stainless steel, which is commonly used for rifle barrels. In that case, welding is not an issue, but lower grades of steels and chrome Molybdenum alloys are normally called upon to be welded. Just know what material you are dealing with. GregH

[Richie O]

I just weld EVERYTHING. Your post went way over my head.

[PToombs]

Greg, shiny is good! Of course, in your case, I think you're better off with not shiny because of what you're welding.

And don't listen to Rich. He thinks bubble gum is a type of weld.

[Richie O]

You guys would laugh if you knew all the odd stuff I have welded back together. Some worked some didn't.