tired of bleeding

everything but the drivetrain

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tired of bleeding

Postby Lovemytruck » Sat Jun 20, 2009 11:11 pm

I've read the advice about removing the abs......and I want to....I've bled my brakes 8 times now....and they are still spongy....new master....new wheel cylinders....new calipers...no leaks....I even bled that valve mounted on the driver side frame...it has a bleed screw....but it doesn't help...

It feels like I still have air in the lines.....but I can't imagine how....

The brakes weren't spongy prior to replacing everything....now...they are far worse.

So....all I can think is to remove the abs...but I don't know what that MEANS.

The valve in the back....I think is called a ABS hydaulic controler....but maybe its not....I don't want to remove the wrong thing.....

One guy commented he removed the T...on the axel...with the rubber hose that hangs off the top.....but I really don't know what to take off....

Pictures anyone?....and once its off...then what?

Thanks for the help.....Im affraid I'll kill someone with these weak brakes.
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Postby burnt_servo » Sat Jun 20, 2009 11:34 pm

did you adjust the rear shoes to fit the drum ?
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curently removing the dead moose parts ....
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Postby Lovemytruck » Sun Jun 21, 2009 8:50 am

yes....they are snug and fitted....adjusted again yesterday just to make sure....so its not about travel.

My question is....as others have written to remove the abs....how do I do that? what PART do I take off and what do I put in its place?

Thanks guiys
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Postby cougar » Sun Jun 21, 2009 9:49 am

I made a pressure pot to bleed from the bottom up. Just a weed sprayer with hoses to attach to the bleeder at the wheel. It pushes the bubbles up instead of trying to force them down. Disconnect the line at the master and hose it into a catch can. When the bubbles are gone, hook the line back up and then bleed into the master. Quick and simple.
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Postby PToombs » Sun Jun 21, 2009 5:37 pm

Boy, I'm surprised nobody wants to tell you how to do it! :shock:

The valve on the frame rail, drivers side, above the axle. The line from the front goes to it, then to the rubber hose. There are 2 adapter fittings that you need to connect the lines, (the valve has weird fittings) or replace the line front to the hose in the rear. The part numbers for the adapters is listed here someplace. Make sure you unplug the ABS brain, it's behind the glovebox, you can't miss it.

The reason the unit goes bad is there is an accumulator in it. The valve in the unit sticks and leaves the accumulator open to line pressure. So when you step on the brakes, you're pushing on the accumulator, not the wheel cylinders.
pete

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Postby jogl » Mon Jun 22, 2009 2:57 am

My ABS controller was replaced with a couple of inverted flare nuts and a union. Brakes are nice and tight. The box and wiring etc is still there so if I need to I can reconnect it.

JP.
92 W250 and lots of others.
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Postby Lovemytruck » Mon Jun 22, 2009 7:37 am

thanks guys I appreciate the help.

Sp all I need to do is remove that accumulato/abs unit....and put connectors in its place....re-bleed.....and I should be good to go.

right?

Also.....the "T" on the axel.....has incoming hose....splits to the wheels...AND another hose that goes up to a small holder bracket....and looks like a breather of somekind.

Shouldn't I just put in a regular "T"....do I need that breather....or am I all wrong
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Postby 93_Fummins » Mon Jun 22, 2009 7:47 am

That breather is for the axle. I'd suggest NOT getting rid of it.
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Postby PJ 3 » Mon Jun 22, 2009 12:24 pm

93_Fummins wrote:That breather is for the axle. I'd suggest NOT getting rid of it.


I second that.....and while your under there it would be wise to disconnect the rubber hose and probe out the " T " with a small piece of wire. The hole going into the axle tends to gum up and restricts air flow.
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Postby wjones » Mon Jun 22, 2009 2:36 pm

napa weatherhead: WH202x5 and WH252x3.
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Postby Lovemytruck » Tue Jun 23, 2009 10:10 pm

thanks guys....works GREAT!!!! All these years....and now....I actually have brakes.

Unbelievable....
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Postby PToombs » Wed Jun 24, 2009 6:01 pm

Nice huh? ;)
You've only been here 3 days and look what you learned? :lol:
And you may have just saved yours or somebody elses life! 8)
pete

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Postby dpuckett » Fri Jun 26, 2009 5:04 pm

We had to do the AntiStopBrake bypass to my green truck at SOP one year, and I had to relearn how to drive it. Still need to do it to my current one. As a side effect, your front brakes may last longer, but your rears may no longer go 100K.

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Hers- 04 QC 4x4. Built auto, Triple Dog, Air Dog. Funny Round truck that aint so quiet.
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Postby gear jammer 91" » Fri Jun 26, 2009 5:10 pm

After you chit can the abs dealy on the frame, does your brake bias get all screwed up? I have been thinking about doing away with the abs thingy but I have been concerned that it will make the rear brake's lock very easily.

I hope the use of those highly technical terms (dealy thingy) didn't confuse anybody. :lol:
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Postby Richie O » Fri Jun 26, 2009 5:18 pm

My rear brakes will lock before the front when unloaded.
1989 W250 727, 3.07 L/S, S300, P/S Intercooler, Stans exaust, Pump adjustments, 127k miles,297 hp
1993 W250 extended cab, rag, 4.10 l/s, 6x16's, HTT 62/71/14 piston l/p, Isspro EV series tach, fuel pressure, boost, oil pres, water temp, volt, pryo, 132k/ 301 hp
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