12mm head arp head studs

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12mm head arp head studs

Postby randyswelding » Wed Aug 26, 2009 7:39 pm

just got em and my new motor just got a question do i really have to get the machine shop to lower the valve tower at the head bolt height?i hope not cause i aint got no mo money :x its all goin together tomarrow and goin in the truck friday hopefully any info thanked before i get too far along
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Postby swank » Wed Aug 26, 2009 9:06 pm

Pretty sure a lot of folks have just taken a die grinder or something to the inside of the valve cover to make the needed room.
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Postby seeker1056 » Thu Aug 27, 2009 4:04 am

if u make sure that those six studs are just one thread out of the nut, and you grind the webs in the valve covers, they will/should fit without milling the rocker stands
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Postby mprmn08 » Thu Aug 27, 2009 4:13 pm

i dont know for sure but i think they redesigned the studs and those six are shorter then they used to be so you have to mill the rocker stand to get proper thread engagement. dont quote me though.
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Postby PToombs » Thu Aug 27, 2009 5:48 pm

You could just drill a hole in the valve cover and seal it with some pretty blue silicone like another member did. :lol:
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Postby peobryant » Thu Aug 27, 2009 6:25 pm

PToombs wrote:You could just drill a hole in the valve cover and seal it with some pretty blue silicone like another member did. :lol:


I don't see any blue Pete. :rambo:


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Postby randyswelding » Fri Aug 28, 2009 4:27 pm

Now that's redneck!total height off the flat of the head I got 2 7/8" tall can I do this with out milling the assemblies yall are smarter than me and it is my first diesel so I'm clueless right now and wantin the diesel work truck back so the gasser work truck can sit
'92 D350 cab and chassy,pump turned up with 1/8 timin,coaltriann 6x16 sticks,htt manifold,asa intake cooler tubez,south bend 13" clutch rebuilt G360,ps cooler,industrial super 62 phat shaft turbo,weldin bed.
12 Chevy 3500ltz lifted, deleted, and bed with sae 300 ss hood for new rig
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Postby PToombs » Fri Aug 28, 2009 6:44 pm

Yeah Parker, I didn't search to make sure I had the right color. Damn silicone police! :roll:

Randy, I haven't done studs, so I'm not sure. Measure it and see how close you are.
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Postby randyswelding » Sat Aug 29, 2009 12:00 am

Ok now here's an idea since I'm a welder how bout makin 6 hompes(I can't spell) and doin it out of thin sheet metal thatd be diffrent and not leak right? 6 little hompes thatd be easy just a torch and mig oh I could tig it to be clean
'92 D350 cab and chassy,pump turned up with 1/8 timin,coaltriann 6x16 sticks,htt manifold,asa intake cooler tubez,south bend 13" clutch rebuilt G360,ps cooler,industrial super 62 phat shaft turbo,weldin bed.
12 Chevy 3500ltz lifted, deleted, and bed with sae 300 ss hood for new rig
randyswelding
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Postby Begle1 » Sat Aug 29, 2009 8:26 am

My understanding was that bottom-tapping the threads in the holes was required for the stud itself to clear the valve covers, while either grinding a tad off the insides of the valve covers or milling some off the pedestals was required for the nut and washer to clear the valve covers.
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Postby Ezra » Sat Aug 29, 2009 1:41 pm

Grind'em, cut'em ,jb weld'em and throw the vanity cover back on..Mine are just ground right now,but you have to be just right for them to seal.Ezra
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Postby randyswelding » Sat Aug 29, 2009 2:45 pm

well ya got to mill the assembly cause the studs are shorter than before :x
'92 D350 cab and chassy,pump turned up with 1/8 timin,coaltriann 6x16 sticks,htt manifold,asa intake cooler tubez,south bend 13" clutch rebuilt G360,ps cooler,industrial super 62 phat shaft turbo,weldin bed.
12 Chevy 3500ltz lifted, deleted, and bed with sae 300 ss hood for new rig
randyswelding
fuel screw!!!!
 
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