Help me make a shopping list

everything but the drivetrain

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Help me make a shopping list

Postby darestie » Sun Oct 11, 2009 8:10 pm

I will be doing my rear brakes soon and need some help getting my parts together. My truck has 120000 miles on it and seems to stop good. The front brakes were just done recently. I have a long trip coming up soon and because I am unsure of when the rears where last done I figure I will just get them out of the way. I also want to upgrade to the dually 3" pads and the dually wheel cylinders while i'm at it. Here is what I figure I will need so far.

Dually 3" shoes (anyone recommend a brand?) X2
Dually wheel cylinders X2
New drums X2
Drum Hardware kit X2
Self Adjuster? (should I replace it while i'm there?)
Lock nuts (Should I really replace them?)
I will problably buy some wheel studs to replace any bad ones
Axle seals X2 (part numbers?)
Wheel bearings and races (should I replace them? Part #'s?)
X4
Axle shaft gasket (part #'s?)X2
Diff. cover gasket (part #'s?) (I will be replacing the axle fluid also)
I know I will need some rtv sealant
Please add to the list, anything I may need or you recommend replacing.

I also need a socket to remove the dana 70 lock nuts, if anyone knows where to get one.

If you have any advice/suggestions let me know. This is my first time touching a rear axle so I am trying to absorb as much as I can.

Thanks!
1993 D250, 5speed. starwheel turned, ASA Intake, M&H M3 fuel pin
darestie
fuel screw!!!!
 
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Postby dpuckett » Mon Oct 12, 2009 4:35 pm

I'd reuse the locknut on the axle. You WILL need the 2-9/16" special round corner nut for proper torquing.

Wheel bearings- if they are good, roll easy, and are in otherwise good shape, reuse them.

Self adjuster- See if it spins/ moves freely. If so, I'd say it's ok. Not that they work anyway.

A few lug studs wouldnt hurt, but I doubt they would need replaced. But, if you live in a rust-proned area.

Diff cover gasket- Pass on this one. I just use a healthy dose of Ultra or Mega Black RTV on the axle side of the assembly and let it sit a while before filling with oil. If you have a LSD, get 2 tubes of friction modifier- better to slip a little than to grab on corners (BTDT, no fun).

Dan
His- 93 W250 club cab LE, auto to Getrag conversion, piston lift pump, 3.54 LSD. 400k+
Hers- 04 QC 4x4. Built auto, Triple Dog, Air Dog. Funny Round truck that aint so quiet.
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14mm rotor
 
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Postby darestie » Mon Oct 12, 2009 7:52 pm

Thanks so much dan!
Do you know a cheap place to get the 2-9/16" socket? Any brand preference for shoes, or whatevers cheapest?
1993 D250, 5speed. starwheel turned, ASA Intake, M&H M3 fuel pin
darestie
fuel screw!!!!
 
Posts: 37
Joined: Fri Jul 10, 2009 1:14 pm
Location: Sugar Land, TX
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Postby ahale2772 » Mon Oct 12, 2009 8:10 pm

ur local big truck store will have it neer me its fleetpride dont know what your local stuff is make sure u put molly greese on all the moving parts including the selfadjuster u shouldent need berings or races dont need the lock nut but i would check your rear rubber brake line that goes from the frame to the axle, all your good work will be null and void if thats dry rotted and cracks
84 CCLB W350 project
94' W350 Dually, Diesel, Auto 1080HP/1980FTlbs
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14mm rotor
 
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Postby PToombs » Tue Oct 13, 2009 5:34 pm

Napa should have that socket also, or any auto parts can get if they don't have it already.
pete

Just enough power to break everything behind the crankshaft.
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14mm rotor
 
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