fuel gauge !!!!

[Scrap-iron]

Im a newbee for dodge and diesel. Have a 93 D350, fuel gauge does not work correct, reading past empty when full. Can anyone help? ( Will never own another gas burner )

[PToombs]

Send a PM to Mark Nixon, he has several threads selling parts. He had one recently.

[Mark Nixon]

Sometimes you can fix them.
If you remove the assembly and look at it, you'll see a tin arm that rubs a resistance strip, it's attached to the sender float wire.
The sender assembly is actually mounted externally to the "basket assembly".
Over time the arm can lose tension to the strip and cause erratic or no reading.
In the past I have re-bent the arm and all was well.

I do have a known good '93 sending unit here, though.

{edit}
You should really verify that the trouble is actually the sending unit by removing the wiring from the fuel module assembly and, with someone watching the fuel guage, touch the BLUE WIRE to ground momentarily.
If the guage rises, it's definitely a sender issue.
Sometimes parts go bad in the dash, so you really need to verify if in fact it is actually the sender.
{end}

Mark.

[Scrap-iron]

Looks like a sending unit. Boy this is going to be a pain in the a** , I do thank all for the info.

[Mark Nixon]

Just unbolt the bed and tip it up.
There's 8 relatively easy to get to bolts, tip up the bed from the front with a jack and a board, taking special care to not let it hit the back of the cab, then jackstand or block it securely.
Blow off all the debris on the sending unit capsule, remove the wiring plug and unscrew the "jar lid" and carefully lift out the basket assembly.
PAY PARTICULAR ATTENTION TO REMOVING THE BASKET ASSMBLY, AS THE SENDING UNIT FLOAT LEVEL WIRE REQUIRES YOU TIP THE BASKET ASSEMBLY TO GET THE FLOAT TO CLEAR THE HOLE'S EDGE!

Unscrewing the retainer ring may require using a wide screw driver, preferrably a chisel, and hammer to get it broke loose.

Mark.

[Ace]

There is, literally, only two easily accessible bolts holding the tank in.

[dpuckett]

Just make sure you have 3-400mi on the fill up before dropping the tank.

[Richie O]

In Maine the tank bolts don't come out after a couple of years.

[PToombs]

I'd like to know where Ace found the 2nd easily accessable tank bolt? My front one is above the carrier bearing mount. Pulling the mount is the only way to get at it.

[Mark Nixon]

Last 2 (diesel) tanks I removed either required a grinder or a torch.
Fortunately diesel's a bit more forgiving than gasoline where sparks and flames are concerned .

Pete, I agree, that front strap bolt is an absolute bees-itch to get at with the carrier in the way.

Mark.

[Ace]

Mine's a standard cab w/no carrier bearing. The two tank strap bolts are easily acessible. The hardest part is reaching the fuel line clamps, but I just cut the hoses, because I think they should be replaced on a 15 yr old vehicle in the course of this type thing anyways. It's a good idea to siphon out as much as possible before dropping it. That's pretty easy too, if you just pull the fill tube 1st and stick your siphon hose right in the tank. IIRC, it took me all of a half hour to get it down, including finding a siphon hose and waiting about ten minutes while that finished.

[PToombs]

Ahhhh, Ace has a 4x4 truck! That's why he has no bearing!