Reliable ve 12v build

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Reliable ve 12v build

Postby cumminsduallyguy04 » Fri Jan 01, 2010 9:29 am

Hey I want to build up a ve pumped 12v so that it is reliable. I am a newbie to the mechanical pumps, but I am well versed with CR's. I feel like a white collar switching career paths to blue collar with the mechanical stuff. I see everyone has pros and cons about their mods on here. some of you dont attempt to start your trucks in the winter. I want to increase fuel volume reliably. I also want to make the truck touchy at the pedal. I have had great results with this on the common rails. I want the same of the ve 12v. another thing I want is a bigger intake horn the stock one is choked. I do not plan to install a intercooler. I have 2 SP stage 3 water meth kits in my inventory and i plan to use one of them and nitrous later on.

any input would be greatly apprectiated.
1991 dodge cummins getrag 2wd srw
04.5 dodge cummins 48re 4wd srw
04.5 dodge cummins g56 4wd drw
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Postby Richie O » Fri Jan 01, 2010 11:42 am

I don't mind starting them in the winter, I just choose not to drive them in the salt. ;)
1989 W250 727, 3.07 L/S, S300, P/S Intercooler, Stans exaust, Pump adjustments, 127k miles,297 hp
1993 W250 extended cab, rag, 4.10 l/s, 6x16's, HTT 62/71/14 piston l/p, Isspro EV series tach, fuel pressure, boost, oil pres, water temp, volt, pryo, 132k/ 301 hp
1992 W250 with NV4500, 3.54's, 16cm 60mm GDS H1C, ground stock cone, Isspro tach, pryo, boost, fuel pressure, slow, rusty, dented,180k
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Postby Ace » Fri Jan 01, 2010 1:27 pm

Richie O wrote:I don't mind starting them in the winter, I just choose not to drive them in the salt. ;)

Same here. The newer bodies seem to hold up much better from an anti-rust standpoint.
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Postby Richie O » Fri Jan 01, 2010 4:42 pm

We had a 99 chevy 1/2 ton, that 2 years ago, ( so it was 9 years old ) would not take a sticker. The frame was gone. There has been plenty of 4 to 5 year old cars and trucks with bad brake lines. The salt amount used has been increasing. The town where I live has around 60 miles ( so 120 miles of travel lane ) that the town takes care of and they can use 20 to 30 TONS of salt per storm. When I worked for the town next to me my route was maybe 4 miles of city streets and I would use 20 to 30 YARDS of straight salt. Most state maintained roads are salt only. Its just crazy. The state DOT sent a spokesman down to a meeting in town and a person got up and asked " Our cars are rusting faster then we can pay them off " he goes " find deep puddles and drive through them to rinse it off " :D That was his answer.
1989 W250 727, 3.07 L/S, S300, P/S Intercooler, Stans exaust, Pump adjustments, 127k miles,297 hp
1993 W250 extended cab, rag, 4.10 l/s, 6x16's, HTT 62/71/14 piston l/p, Isspro EV series tach, fuel pressure, boost, oil pres, water temp, volt, pryo, 132k/ 301 hp
1992 W250 with NV4500, 3.54's, 16cm 60mm GDS H1C, ground stock cone, Isspro tach, pryo, boost, fuel pressure, slow, rusty, dented,180k
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Postby ahale2772 » Fri Jan 01, 2010 5:05 pm

for your ve u are going to need a good free flowing fuel supply first, thats one of the best ways to ensure u get all u can out of the ve I vote big fuel supply first (either regulated electric pump or a 2nd gen piston lift pump with a regulator) either way the ip dosent want more than 15-20 psi because it will blow out the front seal(if u secure the seal u can give the pump more), but then u can adjust the hell out of the ve, then get bigger injectors, fix the kdp(not so good for reliability ;) ) biger turbo yada yada.. and get a pyro soon because more fuel to the stock turbo gets it hot fast
84 CCLB W350 project
94' W350 Dually, Diesel, Auto 1080HP/1980FTlbs
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Postby Richie O » Fri Jan 01, 2010 5:26 pm

I would put in a intercooler. My 89 has one and it makes a difference. I don't want power in a bottle.
1989 W250 727, 3.07 L/S, S300, P/S Intercooler, Stans exaust, Pump adjustments, 127k miles,297 hp
1993 W250 extended cab, rag, 4.10 l/s, 6x16's, HTT 62/71/14 piston l/p, Isspro EV series tach, fuel pressure, boost, oil pres, water temp, volt, pryo, 132k/ 301 hp
1992 W250 with NV4500, 3.54's, 16cm 60mm GDS H1C, ground stock cone, Isspro tach, pryo, boost, fuel pressure, slow, rusty, dented,180k
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Postby ahale2772 » Sat Jan 02, 2010 3:18 pm

amen to that the only thing that should be needed to make power is diesel
84 CCLB W350 project
94' W350 Dually, Diesel, Auto 1080HP/1980FTlbs
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Postby cumminsduallyguy04 » Sun Jan 03, 2010 11:25 am

yeah salt can hamper long term reliability, but thats not what i was talking about. I was more on the lines refering to some folks that drive their trucks during the summer time only because of the modifications they make. lower compression, lightening interior, too much fuel.

My plans were to purchase an intake horn, exhaust manifold, custom downpipe, afe filtration, fass pump for fuel volume and 2 mircon filtration (in the event of vandilist diesel additive), i already have installed locking fuel cap (first day i brought it home), I have Snow performance stage 3 kit laying around i plan to throw on when it gets warmer, very shortly i plan to swap in a gm 14 bolt 10.5" with 3.42 gears, spool, and later add disc brake kit with e350 booster and master cylinder. I trashed the stock dana last week and I want higher gears to load the cummins up for and get more top end. Im not interested in installing intercooler on anytime soon, I just want to unchoke her airflow right now and add fuel volume from the pump reliably. is there any bigger injector pumps or pump mods? where do i purchase a bigger intake horn? which exhuast manifold can i run?

if i was scared of the rust i would keep her out of the rain too
1991 dodge cummins getrag 2wd srw
04.5 dodge cummins 48re 4wd srw
04.5 dodge cummins g56 4wd drw
cumminsduallyguy04
fuel pin?
 
Posts: 5
Joined: Sat Dec 26, 2009 10:49 pm
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