IP Timing

[mil-spec1]

I just got my new IP and i notice that the shaft key was facing the top of the pump. Now every reference that i have found (including the service manual i got from Geno's) tells me that the key should be facing somewere around the 5:30 position. When i asked the supplier he told me that his pumps come from the factory @ num. 1 tdc. Can anyone gide me in this matter?

[oldestof11]

If they told you that the IP is set for #1 TDC, then turn the engine to TDC.

[PToombs]

The keyway is where it is firing. Look a the rear of the pump. #1 should be the bottom left port. On the shaft end of the pump there should be a little triangle or arrow at about the same spot, about 5:00 position as you look at the front. If the truck is on #1, the keyway in the gear should be close.

[BC847]

Don't forget to unlock the new IP.

[PToombs]

Yup, that gets ugly!

[rattlebox93]

should it even matter? as long as the keyway is in the gear and the gear is lined up it should be rite...correct? i hope so or i am in for a rude awakeining when i go to put my engine back togeather

[ahale2772]

unlock the new pump?

[BC847]

unlock the new pump?

As received, the new IP is Locked in the #1 firing position. Install it with the engine at TDC of #1.

OK?

- On the side of the pump, there's a U-shaped washer that is hanging by a little wire.
- There's a bolt that's screwed in to the point that, it's jambed up against the IP's main shaft, locking it in place.
- Installing that washer under the head of that bolt at the completion of your work, makes the bolt NOT jamb the main-shaft.

[ahale2772]

hmmm interesting maybe a good way to prevent the ip from caming over when pulling the pump?

[BC847]

Exactly.

To lock and remove the IP,

- First bring the engine to TDC of #1.
- Remove the U-shaped washer from under the IP's locking bolt.
- Torque the IP's locking bolt to 10ft/lbs.
- Secure U-shaped washer.
- Remove IP.

- Do your work.

- With engine still at TDC of #1, reinstall IP.
- Reinstall U-shaped washer.

[rattlebox93]

while were on the topic of pump timing i want to advanvce my pump a tooth when i put it back togeather what direction do i turn it?...im not a colplete idiot i could figure it out but its just easyer asking lol

[BC847]

while were on the topic of pump timing i want to advanvce my pump a tooth when i put it back togeather what direction do i turn it?...im not a colplete idiot i could figure it out but its just easyer asking lol

In the following image, the top gear is the IP gear. The lower big gear is the cam gear (the small gear bottom/right, is the Vacuum/Power Steering pumpset.

- Stock has the "O" of the cam gear line-up with the "E" of the IP gear.
- Advancing things one tooth has the "O" line-up with "C".
- You can see in the image, I've got mine advanced two teeth.

[rattlebox93]

how does two teeth work for you? i had mine lined up stock with the pump all the way to the head and it made my hx35 with with 12cm housing kinda laggy....what kinda charger are you running and how laggy does all that timing make it? thanks

[BC847]

how does two teeth work for you? i had mine lined up stock with the pump all the way to the head and it made my hx35 with with 12cm housing kinda laggy....what kinda charger are you running and how laggy does all that timing make it? thanks

I apologize for not being clear about my 2 teeth thing.

As you may know, typically, larger injectors can use more injection event advance.
Quite often, you may hear of folks with the IP shoved to the head, a tooth advance plus almost to the head, etc.

- That IP at the head thing leaves very little room to get to the engine side of the IP for any work.

- If mine were set JUST LIKE most other trucks, I'd be a tooth advanced plus the pump almost at the head.

- Jumping that additional tooth allows me to pull the IP back to it's factory timing marks (literally in my case). I can easily get to the Allen bolts for the top of the IP right there in between the IP and engine for example.



I run a conservative HX35-Hybrid/HT3B with 6x.016" injectors with thin washers (the thin washers help get more fuel into the piston bowls).

Stock, my truck came timed at 1.4mm lift (using the proper micrometer to measure the IP's piston lift in relation to #1 TDC). When I ran DDP4 injectors, I had the IP as far as I could force it to the head and that measured right at 2.20mm or more IIRC. I haven't measured it lately. I imagine it's approaching 2.3mm or so.

It runs OK I guess.

I'm fixing to pull things apart for a general tune-up and some IP work. I'll measure it then.

[rattlebox93]

thanks....

i think i will try the 1 tooth advance with the pump in the middle i can always back it back down i really like the way the truck runs now well the way it did run till the catastrophy anyway...

i am not running huge injectors just a set of pod's and i might get my stockers edm'ed to like 6x12-13's nothing really big....

also i will try the thinner washers too wich ones do you use? there are like 4 sets in the kit?...

also i will put a good lp on it when it goes back togeather that should help out a TON my lp is soo bad that when i am at full throttle and back out of it and push the clutch in at the same time the engine will die and you will have to blead the injectors to get it started againit has kinda devoloped a rough idle lately i hope that lp diddent burn up the ip