o ring and head studs

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o ring and head studs

Postby lectro_static » Fri Jun 25, 2010 10:09 pm

Well its official I have a bad head gasket, while its off Im thinking I want to have it o ringed and stud the block. Any advise or things I should know about? Are the heads on ebay even worth looking at, I would like to get another head and have it done and waiting for the change.
While I am at it I am hoping to change injectors and do my hplp with a regulator and a twin ram intake.
soon to be 1985 Chevy crew cab with 93 cummins running gear
weeping head gasket
4" straight pipe
M&H M3 fuel pin
M&H Dynamic Timing Advance
366 spring
Full power screw bottomed out no runaway
Auto Meter EGT and Boost
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Re: o ring and head studs

Postby BC.livewire » Fri Jun 25, 2010 11:24 pm

now I'm new to commins so my info maybe a little off

but as far as I understand that a new stock replacemnt head gasket and torking the head to 135lbs? is good for 500hp ( I have no clue what that is in tork ) or 50psi of boost

as for the twin ram intake --- it is a wast of money --- I hardly see the 1,000+hp guys use tham ---- spend your money on twin turbos ( just my opinon )
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Re: o ring and head studs

Postby IowaCummins » Sat Jun 26, 2010 12:11 am

head you can get from medium duty truck stores pretty cheap. like here local is a place called vanderhaags truck and they have new heads with springs or without for like $400. i wouldnt ever buy a used head due to alot of head have small cracks inthem around valve seats and what not. if you can find a new head on ebay and the seller is knoweledgeable go for it. head studs you can go a few ways. dependeing on what kinda boost you want push through kinda predicts the money you will spend. like the arp 425s good for the avearage truck thats not making record dyno runs or pushing over 800 horse. A1 technologys has has there H1 studs that are good for 80 psi. my personal opinion are a bit stroneger than the arp 425s but thats just me. i run them and are great fasteners. your nest level of studs are the arp 825s? and A1 H11s. top of the line crazy expensive hold jsut about anything down type of studs. arp might have another set that i cant remeber at the moment also? i dont knwo much about O rings but i know when i get to that point i will do a lot of reseach before i do them. head gaskets. cummins no longer offers the " Marine gasket" but all it was a .020" thicker gasket which they offer. they now offer a Stock gasket, .010" gasket and .020" gasket. i ran a .010" gasket just for peace of mind that i can lower cylinder pressure jsut a bit and run more timing with out that added pressure. i can run more boost with less pressure too. but really if your not pushing over 55psi most likely wont make a difference. in my case it probably hurt me more than anything due to teh fact that im only pushing 45psi at the max. twin ram horn that i would think lower egt a bit over an aftermarket horn and lower alot compared to a stock 1st gen horn! i mean guys building air ram plenums that run the entire length of the intake runner are not doing those just for looks its to feed all cylinders as much smoothe flowing air as possible. so thats what i have gathered as of now lol hope it helps
1993 Dodge W250 Reg cab. Auto, .010" headgasket, A1 Studs. Just the Lil Ole VE pump Fuelin 7x.014's turnin the Aurora 3000 turbo. 5" Turbo back to Duals. :cbadge:
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Re: o ring and head studs

Postby PToombs » Sat Jun 26, 2010 5:17 am

What's wrong with your head? Have it magnafluxed and If it's not cracked into a water gallery just run it. Most used heads have small cracks, but they don't hurt anything. You're better off to run a seasoned (used) head than a new one because the new may change slightly as it goes thru heat cycles.
pete

Just enough power to break everything behind the crankshaft.
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Re: o ring and head studs

Postby lectro_static » Sat Jun 26, 2010 8:40 am

BC.livewire wrote:now I'm new to commins so my info maybe a little off

but as far as I understand that a new stock replacemnt head gasket and torking the head to 135lbs? is good for 500hp ( I have no clue what that is in tork ) or 50psi of boost

as for the twin ram intake --- it is a wast of money --- I hardly see the 1,000+hp guys use tham ---- spend your money on twin turbos ( just my opinon )


No the twin ram will help with EGTs and I do tow.

PToombs wrote:What's wrong with your head? Have it magnafluxed and If it's not cracked into a water gallery just run it. Most used heads have small cracks, but they don't hurt anything. You're better off to run a seasoned (used) head than a new one because the new may change slightly as it goes thru heat cycles.




I dont know that there is anything wrong with my head, I just cant have the truck down for any amount of time so if I want another head to put on when I pull mine off.
soon to be 1985 Chevy crew cab with 93 cummins running gear
weeping head gasket
4" straight pipe
M&H M3 fuel pin
M&H Dynamic Timing Advance
366 spring
Full power screw bottomed out no runaway
Auto Meter EGT and Boost
User avatar
lectro_static
fuel screw!!!!
 
Posts: 371
Joined: Fri Feb 27, 2009 10:58 pm
Location: Portland, Oregon
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Re: o ring and head studs

Postby Douglas » Wed Jul 07, 2010 5:57 am

hey-Hey!!!,
What mods are needed to use studs? What has to be cut for clearance?
cheers,
Douglas
1990 D250, NV5600, 16cm housing and PAC brake, Powr-Lok'd 3.07's, HX35...IC next

1991 D250, 727 and 16cm H1C.
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Re: o ring and head studs

Postby mhuppertz » Wed Jul 07, 2010 10:56 am

Douglas wrote:hey-Hey!!!,
What mods are needed to use studs? What has to be cut for clearance?
cheers,
Douglas


No mods needed for the 12mm studs.
mhuppertz
 
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Re: o ring and head studs

Postby lectro_static » Wed Jul 07, 2010 8:36 pm

mhuppertz wrote:
Douglas wrote:hey-Hey!!!,
What mods are needed to use studs? What has to be cut for clearance?
cheers,
Douglas


No mods needed for the 12mm studs.


I have heard the rocker shaft needs to be machined with ARP studs with the a1 studs you have to take a die grinder and relieve the ribs under the valve cover.

I am going to do fire rings, port the head, 60lb springs, m&h twin ram, exhaust manifold and 435 injectors, hoping that will get me to the 350-400 usable hp area. Any thoughts?
soon to be 1985 Chevy crew cab with 93 cummins running gear
weeping head gasket
4" straight pipe
M&H M3 fuel pin
M&H Dynamic Timing Advance
366 spring
Full power screw bottomed out no runaway
Auto Meter EGT and Boost
User avatar
lectro_static
fuel screw!!!!
 
Posts: 371
Joined: Fri Feb 27, 2009 10:58 pm
Location: Portland, Oregon
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Re: o ring and head studs

Postby IowaCummins » Wed Jul 07, 2010 8:42 pm

rocker pedestals to be exact. and yeah if you bottom tap the block with A1s you just have to take a bit of material outta the valve cover.
1993 Dodge W250 Reg cab. Auto, .010" headgasket, A1 Studs. Just the Lil Ole VE pump Fuelin 7x.014's turnin the Aurora 3000 turbo. 5" Turbo back to Duals. :cbadge:
IowaCummins
14mm rotor
 
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Joined: Tue Mar 17, 2009 2:16 pm
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Re: o ring and head studs

Postby SNOOT » Wed Jul 07, 2010 10:00 pm

ARP

Image
Image
1993 W350
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Re: o ring and head studs

Postby mhuppertz » Thu Jul 08, 2010 6:54 am

What are you showing on the rocker pedestal?
mhuppertz
 
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Re: o ring and head studs

Postby SNOOT » Thu Jul 08, 2010 1:57 pm

The rocker pedestal were the nut fits has a milled notch. Normally it is flat across the top like below photo.

Image
1993 W350
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