My Daily Driver/Weekend Warrior starts here...

[delinquent]

Well went to the local drag strip, and ran my truck through the quarter a few times. Bone stock, down to the exhaust and intake, Standard cab 2wd 91.5.

And the result...


18.69 @ 70.55mph

This truck also dyno'd on Mr. David Dumbars dyno at 131hp.
I don't know the current weight but I will find out and post it.

I was not suprized. It feels weak on top.
I have got several parts, and plan on documenting everything I do. I do know that I am going to stay with the 12mm, mainly due to reliabilty.

So, I will be asking lots of questions and would appreciate any input anyone may have!

Pic of the Truck:

[peobryant]

Auto or manual? If it's an auto, and you want to keep it an auto, I think the best option is to swap a lockup 47rh from a '94 or '95 second gen into your truck, after it is rebuilt and beefed up of course.

If you want to keep the stock 1st Gen auto (which is non lockup) you would at the very least need a good torque converter. Dave Goerend is the man I'd contact for any Dodge transmission.

[meby]

My 90' D250 just weighed in at 5500 lbs last week.

[oldestof11]

delinquent, I thought mine had no top end...

Ran the exact same time as you...

The problem was no RPM's after the turbo spooled. I fixed that by taking the high idle screw completely out and moved the ball up to the top hole. I swear I gained 2 secs doing just that. More throttle response, the ability to get the torque converter to become a little more efficient with more RPMs.

[delinquent]

Never heard of this...Details please! Thanks. Info like this is what makes forums worth while.

[BC.livewire]

http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/more_p ... wer_ve.htm
http://www.dieselbombers.com/1st-genera ... post510256

[oldestof11]

Have someone sit in your truck and hold the throttle wide open with the truck OFF. Notice what moves on the IP. If there is a gap between the plate the throttle rod connects to the injection pump, then unscrew CAREFULLY the nut the throttle rod is connected by. Move the springs in the upper hole to the lower, put the throttle rod in the upper hole.

Now have the person hit the throttle again. Notice if it hits a screw going the same direction as the engine, front to back. Take the tamper evident (No Mo Warranty Fo Yo! cap) off like you did to the power screw. Un-screw that thing all the way out.

Unlock both nuts on the throttle rod ends that prevent the rod from turning in on itself, like a tie rod end. Screw the rod so that it pulls the 2 ends inward towards each other. Watch the throttle plate on the pump. When the throttle plate on the pump starts to move, back out of it about 1/4 turn.

If you are like me, hitting 18mph in first and 40mph in 2nd was where it was stock.... Now I can hit 30 and 60 respectively if I keep into it long enough. Here is the kicker, I have a truck that is spooled by 20mph and pulls like a mo fo all the way to 85mph, where it starts letting off until it gets to 100mph.

Truck has no modifications other than the full power screw is in all the way back. No spring, no extra air, no upgraded sticks.

[delinquent]

Ok guys, I have been quitley collecting parts, here is what I have so far:
-4200rpm Gov. Spring
-#60 Valve Springs
-5x0.018 Injectors
-Aeromotive Fuel Pump (25psi Capable/Return Style Regulator)
-Borg & Warner S475
-Stainless Steel Braided lines, from Fuel Cell to VE Pump -8an
-47rh Tranny and Converter Stock (going to get built)

I am looking for a few more things, I'm even asking Santa Claus for some:
-S300 based 62mm Charger
-Big Stick Cam from Hamilton
-Nitrous Express Kit
-External Gate Setup
-Better Intercooler Set-up (Possibly Powerstoke???)

So basically, if it all comes together I will have a oring'd head with the big valve springs. That hopefully will hold the air from the twins 62mm over S475. For now I will stay with the 12mm Rotor setup, and If the power dissapoints me I will go to the 14mm. Probably will skip a tooth, if not two, but the spray scared me with too much timing.

Looking for 500 on fuel and 650 on bottle. Opinions???

[Remps]

Tims tubes or custom intake, maybe a steed speed exhaust manifold with built in external gate port(s).

[BC847]

My experience says . . . .

- You might skip the 4200 gov spring and just cut a couple of loops out of a 3200 spring. At 3000 engine rpm, you're way past the torque peak.

- Reconsider those 60# Cummins valve-springs. Get the Hamilton HD1 springs (or equivalent) instead.

- I don't know that you're gonna get much return on the N2O thing. Perhaps getting the turbos to spool quickly coming off the line, but not much once they're spooled as the turbos should be enough air.

(I don't know for sure about those 5x0.018"s. I run 6x0.016" EDMs with a 62/14 over an HT3B, and the EGTs struggle to get to 1500*F at the top of the quarter on #2 only (with the Hamilton 181/210, ported head and fugin big Hellman IC).

Looking for 500 on fuel and 650 on bottle. Opinions???

Me too. No N2O for me though.
I think you're gonna need more fuel than the 12mm VE can give to reach 650 on the bottle.

You gonna race this thing?

[dazedandconfused]

I like the new look of it better. What does it weigh in at now. Also don't the 5X.18's flow a bit more fuel then the 6x16's?

[JBradley500]

My experience says . . . .

- You might skip the 4200 gov spring and just cut a couple of loops out of a 3200 spring. At 3000 engine rpm, you're way past the torque peak.

- Reconsider those 60# Cummins valve-springs. Get the Hamilton HD1 springs (or equivalent) instead.

i agree with the valve springs... with an aftermarket cam and a 4200rpm spring youre going to need real good valve springs and aftermarket retainers and keepers or youll have pistons with valves stuck into the top of them.

[JQmile]

I doubt a 12mm will be able to hit much more than about 500, even with nitrous. It'll be one heck of a clean burning, fun truck though!

[delinquent]

weighs in at 4560lb andy.

[dazedandconfused]

You have me wanting to do that to my ext cab now. Love to change it up and four link it.