Wait to start missing and ignition switch?

[Erska]

Hi. I have a W-250 1990 5 spd 4x4 and previous owner has made some horrible changes like truck has separate starter switch on the dash which is just plugged from battery to the starter solenoid via fuse It starts turning engine without keys on the ignition lock. Original solenoid wire to the starter has been cut inside the engine bay.

Also my grid heaters dont work. There's no wait to start light . Ignition lock has to be in "on" mode to start because of the shut off solenoid.

If I try to start the truck normally and keep the key on the "start" position everything like radio and the fan goes off like they should.
But then I can also see "Water in the fuel" light. So I assume that works.

I also have Antilock and (P)Brake lights on.

They went off when I took battery cable off but they came back as soon I start moving the truck.

ALSO the fan switch is missing on the dash. It's on the high position all the time when I turn power on.

Any tips? HELP!?

Thanks!

[Richie O]

Welcome to the world of crappy wire hack jobs.

[ellis93]

Welcome to the world of crappy wire hack jobs.

What's that! You referring to Mopar

[Erska]

Welcome to the world of crappy wire hack jobs.

I know that. Thanks. Any tips or advices?

[Richie O]

Take out the glove box and unplug the black box thats right behind it. That will get rid of the brake / abs lights. Its the abs controller.

[Erska]

Take out the glove box and unplug the black box thats right behind it. That will get rid of the brake / abs lights. Its the abs controller.

Ok Thanks That's "fixed" now. Next? Any tips for the grid heaters?

Also it worries me that my oil pressure light come on when I'll let the clutch without any throttle. Rpms do drop below the Idle. That might be it. But it wont stall and it only happens when the engine is warm... I donät think I noticed it before. Well I'll see what's going on when I'll install the mechanical oil pressure gauge along with the Glowshift boost-pyro-psi gauge and ISSpro rpm gauge.

[PToombs]

Oil pressure is probably a bad sender. They are known to be weak.
Grid heaters, check the relays, see if they get power to activate, etc.

[Erska]

Now when our weather is very hot, the egine got little more warmer than usual and when I came back from highway and dropped the rpm's to the idle, the oil pressure light stayd on constantly on idle. After that I plugged in mechanical oil pressure gauge and it showed healthy 15-22psi at idle when very hot. Max oil pressure with rpm's 55psi when hot..

[Erska]

Hey guys. I noticed I had bad bulb on the Wait to Start light. But Now it stays on for about 30secs and then starts flahing?

It flashes all the time. I have the service manual but I'm not sure did I understand it right. So if it flashes all the time the temp sensor could be bad or what?

[ahale2772]

my oil pressure sender did that as well, flashed on when I let the rpms drop, ive never seen lower than 22 when very hot with a mecha guage hooked into the same spot. BUT im going to put the sender back on with a T at some point to act as a low pressure warning light

can you hear the grid heater relay work? it sould come one for about 10 seconds