Any info will help...

[escoria]

OK. So after months of searching I finally found my dream truck. It’s a 1993 D250 in pretty good condition. No rust or any body damage. Seems to be running good boosting at 18 to 20 pounds when fully open. The transmission is good but I know it’s going to need some work.
So what do you guys think should be my next step? I already install a boost gage. I know that I need a pyro but should I wait till I do my exhaust? What do you guys think? And what kind or should I say brand is best.
Thank you for the info.
Escoria

[rbrettctd]

Get the pyro first.

Stans or Rip rook at sourceautomotive.biz have 4" exhaust systems for these rigs.

The 'sticky' on DTR has great info for doing pump work and intake, etc. for these trucks.

Enjoy!

[escoria]

Thanks Randy.
Ill go ahead and order the pyro. Now what would be the best set-up before or after the turbo? I found both there about the same price but I want to make sure that I’m getting the right one.
Let you know how it goes…
Rafael

[rbrettctd]

PRE Turbo...only way to go IMO, much more accurate.

[peobryant]

Yeah, definitely install it pre turbo. As for an exhaust, you cant get one from Rip Rook, because you have a D250. He told me he only makes systems for 4X4 trucks.

[VEfreak]

exhuast and BHAF will open these truck up alot. Definitely get on your tranny. 5 disc clutches and steels, front band, shift kit, torque converter, and a few misc items will change everything. You will be very please with tranny and full pump mods.

[escoria]

Randy thanks for the info on were to install the pyro. Now should I take the manifold off to do the install? Also were do you think it will be the best place for it?

Parker. Do you know of any other source or should I just go custom? I was thinking of going straight 4” to a single stack from the down pipe.

Rafael

[1991cummins]

yes, you should take the manifold off just to make sure you dont get metal shaving in the turbo or that back track into the cumbustion chamber.

i have heard of alot of people doing it without removing and have no trouble, but i would probably at least remove the turbo and make sure to get all the shaving out

as far as exaust stans headers has downpipes [url]http://www.stans-headers.com/

and pdr will make you one if you call: [/url]http://www.pdrdiesel.com/products/Custom_Built_62mm_x_12_or_14_S300_Switzer_Turbo-915-26.html

but i think they all require minor modifications to get them on...

[escoria]

VEfreak
Thanks man. Do you know were I can get some more info on what to get?
Rafael

[PToombs]

No need to remove the manifold. If you try that, you may be removing broken manifold bolts from the head. Not fun!
Drill just in the back half of the manifold before the turbo. The manifold has a web in the middle, you won't like the result of that. If you search, you can find pics. Grease the drill bit, then grease the tap. When done, reach in the hole with a magnet and get the last of the shavings out. Anything left will be so small it won't hurt the turbo or anything.

[Richie O]

No need to remove the manifold. If you try that, you may be removing broken manifold bolts from the head. Not fun!
Drill just in the back half of the manifold before the turbo. The manifold has a web in the middle, you won't like the result of that. If you search, you can find pics. Grease the drill bit, then grease the tap. When done, reach in the hole with a magnet and get the last of the shavings out. Anything left will be so small it won't hurt the turbo or anything.

Thats what I did and worked good. Kept cleaning and re greasing bit as I went.

[Ace]

I loosened the turbo enough separate it a half inch or so and stuck a piece of cardboard over the turbine openings. Drilled, tapped, started the engine for 5 seconds to blow out any chips. Shut down, remove cardboard re-tighten turbo, good to go. You might want to replace the gasket. Maybe not, your call.