I'd convert to WVO if you wanna drive for free

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I'd convert to WVO if you wanna drive for free

Postby ZSkibo » Thu Sep 17, 2009 6:17 pm

Acetone will F your truck up with a capital F. Gasoline as well. Only thing I run in my tank besides dino-diesel is B100, WVO, and sometimes a little 2-stroke but that's it. WMO is for the birds in my book (do what you will, I'm just saying).
92 W250 Pump bombed, AFC out, 366 spring, 18* timing, KSB hotwired, HX35 12cm non wg, New Era 6x18's, BHAF, 60 lb in/ex springs, 4" PAC Brake, onboard air, Nathan P3 horns
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Postby ZSkibo » Thu Sep 17, 2009 7:59 pm

This was supposed to be with the 'Running with WMO' post below. Sorry!
92 W250 Pump bombed, AFC out, 366 spring, 18* timing, KSB hotwired, HX35 12cm non wg, New Era 6x18's, BHAF, 60 lb in/ex springs, 4" PAC Brake, onboard air, Nathan P3 horns
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Postby james-93-12valve » Thu Sep 17, 2009 8:29 pm

B100, WVO, WMO what are these
93 d350 5spd 4inch exhaust to a 6inch tip pump tweaked
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Postby Begle1 » Thu Sep 17, 2009 8:48 pm

B100 is 100% biodiesel, vegetable oil with its glycerine processed out of it. SVO is straight vegetable oil, with its glycerine still in it. WMO is waste motor oil; used engine oil.

B100 eats certain plastics, but otherwise burns with no modifications or drop in longevity. It's the equivalent to alcohol for gasoline; not as much power per gallon, but it burns cleaner, so you can get more power by burning more fuel. It also lubricates very well.

Straight vegetable oil has more power per gallon than Diesel, but it doesn't burn as clean and must be heated to engine coolant temperatures to flow well enough to inject. The heat reduces longevity on VE injection pumps. SVO also lubricates very well.

WMO doesn't really burn worth a crap, but it does burn and can get you a bit of extra miles and save yourself from digging a hole in the backyard to bury the oil.
1990 D-250 Regular Cab: Tweaked injection pump, built transmission, a cataclysmic charlie foxtrot of electronics, the most intense street-ran water injection system in the country, and some more unique stuff.
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Postby Redneckintraining » Thu Sep 17, 2009 11:11 pm

WMO burns actually pretty good.The trouble is just getting it thin enough to flow through the injectors properly.
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Postby mog1300 » Sat Sep 19, 2009 3:54 am

Here in Europe we have the bio diesel sthi since a loong time and it is not good !
Trucking company used vegetable oil, but due to many broken engines and other problems they dropped it fast!
B100 caused the same problems and all those fuel types droped the power of the trucks!
main problem is the fuel injection system. M.A.N tested bio fuel on all kind off diesel engines and they said it is not good fuel at all. it burns huh? and your injector will fail pretty fast.
nobody here in germany is using any kind off bio fuel anymore, except some stupid tree hugers.
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Postby ZSkibo » Sat Sep 19, 2009 6:04 pm

No offense but that is the most inane post I've read regarding WVO/SVO/B100. There are plenty of people running any and all of the above with no problems whatsoever. Good results come from knowing what your are doing. Again, I'm not knocking you but when I read posts like that it doesn't sit well with me.
92 W250 Pump bombed, AFC out, 366 spring, 18* timing, KSB hotwired, HX35 12cm non wg, New Era 6x18's, BHAF, 60 lb in/ex springs, 4" PAC Brake, onboard air, Nathan P3 horns
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Postby Richie O » Sat Sep 19, 2009 7:04 pm

I just want my good fuel back. 8) The stuff with good power and milage. :roll:
1989 W250 727, 3.07 L/S, S300, P/S Intercooler, Stans exaust, Pump adjustments, 127k miles,297 hp
1993 W250 extended cab, rag, 4.10 l/s, 6x16's, HTT 62/71/14 piston l/p, Isspro EV series tach, fuel pressure, boost, oil pres, water temp, volt, pryo, 132k/ 301 hp
1992 W250 with NV4500, 3.54's, 16cm 60mm GDS H1C, ground stock cone, Isspro tach, pryo, boost, fuel pressure, slow, rusty, dented,180k
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Postby rmauto1 » Sun Oct 25, 2009 5:53 pm

A lotta guys here by me are running wvo, seems to have good lubrosity, but, i've read some r&d statements by the big engine manufactures(cat, cummins, and the like) that the long chain fatty acids in the wvo causes the rings to coke up and, wash the oil. most of the big companys will bounce warranty claims for engine repairs caused by wvo. just food for thought.
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Postby Heo » Sun Oct 25, 2009 10:22 pm

Soybean/Canola (SVO) 28963.39
Diesel 28441.27
Biodiesel 27220.78

The above is BTU/L

The cons of WVO far out weight any benefits. One has to be very mindful of acidity, water content, temp, filtering, and storage. Where as with biodiesel you can pretty much just pour it in the tank. Biodiesel adds lubricity without the associated worries from WVO. While biodeisel gelling maybe a concern at low temps, the WVO must be heated at almost all temps. While Biodiesel may react with some plastics, wvo can wreak havoc on metal surfaces due to improper temp as well due to the acidity, as well as causing your IP to work that much harder due to a viscosity of up to 20 times higher than diesel.

WMO is even more ridiculous than SVO. The heavy metals and other crap in the oil cannot be good for the fuel pump or injectors, yet alone the environment.
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Postby Ace » Mon Oct 26, 2009 6:07 am

Also be mindful of trolls who pop up every couple months to post a few lines of dubious, opinionated incomplete information. :roll:
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Postby Heo » Mon Oct 26, 2009 2:31 pm

Ace wrote:Also be mindful of trolls who pop up every couple months to post a few lines of dubious, opinionated incomplete information. :roll:


I know right! Im so glad you can refute my information with soo much fact! Thanks for bringing so much to the thread.

Just because WVO or WMO is free doesnt mean its the best of your diesel engine. If you take wvo and convert it to biodiesel than you dont have to worry about a laundry list of problems. Sure, biodiesel may be hard on certain plastics and rubbers, but it is by no means as harmful to the engine as WVO or WMO. The 5.9 Liter was not designed to run on oil. Just because it does run on WVO or WMO does not mean that some harm isnt being inflicted. The motor oil itself was designed to inhibit combustion, then pared with the metals and other crap floating around, leads to a deadly combo.

I have a neat science experiment you can try at home, but dont b/c you'll burn down your house. Take skillet and pour out a small amount of oil, then turn the stove on high and watch what happens. As it heats it will smoke ,turn black, and become caked on to the skillet. This is the same thing that is happening in the engine if you add WVO before the oil is heated to something of similar viscosity of diesel fuel.

I don't understand the excitement in using WVO and especially WMO as a fuel, it is just because it's low hanging fruit?
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Postby 1STGENFARMBOY » Mon Oct 26, 2009 2:58 pm

I know a guy that runs wvo in his cherry 93 and he has a huge conglomeration of heaters and filters in his barn where he cooks it and he has alot of added stuff on his truck but that sucker has been runnin sweet for 55'000 mi with absolutly no problems and it seems to me it pulls just as hard runnin on it as diesel. ;)
93 W250 STD CAB, AUTO 3.55, GAUGES, 80HP DDP STICKS, DENNY T ,16CM HOUSING, 60MM GILLETT, VE MAXED,BHAF, BHFF, 366 SPRING,P/S INTERCOOLER, TIMS COOLER TUBS, TIMMING 1/8 BUMP,4in TURBO BACK TO DUEL 5IN STACKS,33 12.50 BFG, HOLLEY BLACK, CONVERTER COOMING.
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Postby Begle1 » Mon Oct 26, 2009 3:39 pm

SVO and WMO definitely burn and you can save massive quantities of money running on either. And it can work well.

Straight SVO needs to be heated, and the heat kills injection pumps over time. Not immediately, you are likely to get tens of thousands of miles out of it if filtered well, but it will take a lot of time off rotary pumps on average. Running it in a hopped-up rotary pump at 3000 RPM and twice the fueling as stock is just asking for it even more. Fuel should be as cool as possible, not 180 degrees. If done right the amount of money that you can save on fuel can pay for new injection pumps plus a few thousand dollars for the pocket. It'd be wise to take the money you save and put a much-better-suited-for-the-task P-pump on the truck.

WMO is usually burned in small enough levels that the ash deposits aren't a problem, but there is plenty of stuff in motor oil that does not burn. But a motor can burn all the oil it runs without problem; Cummins did it with their OEM Centinel system, until they had to go to DPF's and the ash deposits from the burnt oil was killing the catalysts.
Last edited by Begle1 on Mon Oct 26, 2009 3:40 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby Ace » Mon Oct 26, 2009 3:39 pm

Heo wrote:Sure, biodiesel may be hard on certain plastics and rubbers, ...

To exactly what plastics and rubbers do you refer, Nitrile, Viton, Buna, what exactly? Poor factless people like me want to know!
Heo wrote:The 5.9 Liter was not designed to run on oil. Just because it does run on WVO or WMO does not mean that some harm isnt being inflicted.

I've been running WMO in my 1st Gen for over three years, and a commonrail for almost one year now. They both run better than they did the day I purchased them. Far better. Quieter, more power and better fuel mileage. Well at least before I put the big tires on the 1st Gen. Do you have any of your own personal experience with which to enlighten us?
Heo wrote:The motor oil itself was designed to inhibit combustion, then pared with the metals and other crap floating around, leads to a deadly combo.

Cummins authorizes up to 5% WMO fuel add and even sells kits to automatically remove, mix/fuel and replentish oil in the crankcase. I suppose the manufacturer is not aware of this dangerous condition of which you speak.
Heo wrote:I have a neat science experiment you can try at home,...

I have a science experiment you can try up your arse. Study the cetane requirements for diesel combustion at various temperatures and get back to me on that.
Heo wrote:I don't understand the excitement in using WVO and especially WMO as a fuel, it is just because it's low hanging fruit?

I use it for lubricity and cetane stability. ULSD generally runs an HFRR rating around 700, requiring a lubricity additive. I'm not trusting the oil companies to take care of that for me. I spend a certain amount of time managing my fuel add mixes, filtering equiment and stock of WMO and used petroleum products of all kinds which I burn in the truck, so it's not exactly "low hanging fruit" to me, per se.

Let me know if you need any more "facts." :roll:
Last edited by Ace on Mon Oct 26, 2009 3:46 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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