Off Road VE Pump

[TheTowingCowboy]

I like to do thing out of the box and different. I also like to learn WELL in advance. So I want to ask about putting a Off Road VE Pump on a 1st Gen Cummins. From my understanding its more 'sloppy' with fuel delivery cause its on engines that dont/didnt have to meet Emissions Standard. Now the reason I want to do this is I know a few guys who run Agriculture P-Pumps on there Daily Driven 2nd Gen Cummins. I figure if its streetable and works for them and there big air the same concept should work here. I want to know all I can so any and all info that could be given would be appreciated, even a link to another thread where this was previously discussed (Cause I cant find anything) Thanks Guys!!!!

[AHineman]

Just because the pump came from an industrial app doesn't mean that it's gonna be better. Some came with 10mm heads and rotors, etc. When you start making bigger power and driving on the street you're going to need your AFC. Keep the pump that came on it and turn the fuel screw in near run away. Grind your fuel pin. Throw in a 3200 rpm gov. spring. Remove your high idle screw. Make sure you have full throttle travel. If you get really ambitious, grind your afc lever and add a longer pin to keep afc control. If you want to spend some money, send it to a shop and have it benched.


The search function on here sucks, so....
If making a lot of power is your thing, go back to page one of the good stuff and start reading. Lots of good info has been posted here. Also read the dyno forum to see what people have done to get the numbers they have.

[TheTowingCowboy]

I may just have my pump sent off. I assume the pump should be a good candidate since its only got 90,000 miles.

[oldestof11]

I already told you this.

The difference between the On-road and Off-road is mainly the governor. Ours are REACTIVE and theirs is PROACTIVE. Meaning:

Big hill coming up ahead. For us to drive up it, we have to physically push the pedal further for more fuel and to keep the same RPM's.

Same condition. Except we don't push the pedal further, it automatically starts adding fuel to keep the same RPMs.

1 is load based, the other is RPM based. A whole different driving experience driving with a RPM/proactive then our load based/reactive system.

[AHineman]

I may just have my pump sent off. I assume the pump should be a good candidate since its only got 90,000 miles.

If you want to get every last cc out of it; but you can have it running like you wouldn't believe for a little time and about $13.

[cmann250]

What Jon said is true. My boss's last Rogator sprayer had a VE 12v in it and I'd bet it had an ag pump. Here's an ag govenor in action: You're putting along on a tractor and you go up a hill. It slows way down and then hits the govenor and carries you up the hill.

Now on the other side of the coin, I heard Scheid uses ag DV's in their 14mm VE

[Tacoclaw]

I may just have my pump sent off. I assume the pump should be a good candidate since its only got 90,000 miles.

If you want to get every last cc out of it; but you can have it running like you wouldn't believe for a little time and about $13.

Yeah, unless you're going for some sort of VE power record, any Joe Schmo can have a VE running at ~80% of it's best. Whether that other 20% is worth almost enough to swap to a P-pump is up to you.

[AHineman]

True that Taco. If you don't have an unlimited budget, save the money you would have spent on sending your pump out and put it toward a good set of injectors. And headstuds, fuel system, gauges, turbos, and ..............................

[TheTowingCowboy]

I may just have my pump sent off. I assume the pump should be a good candidate since its only got 90,000 miles.

If you want to get every last cc out of it; but you can have it running like you wouldn't believe for a little time and about $13.

Please elaborate sir.

[AHineman]

Gov. spring was $13, everything else was free.

[Tacoclaw]

He's just saying put in whatever governor spring you're equipped for and bottom the fuel screw. The rest is just in AFC tuning/playing.

Since you're starting with a non-IC'd pump it should already have full cut DV's from the factory.

Once you're set on air you can look into a 14mm H&R, but it's not like there's any call for one right off the bat.

[welderboy250]

If I have my stories strait, a pump from the right application will have a taller cam plate.might be worth looking into. I wouldn't recommend it with a 14mm plunger but with a stock 12mm it could get u somewhere between stock and a 14. Oh and just because it's off road boesnt necessarily mean the governor is any different than our stock one.

[AHineman]

A few years ago, GLHS had different cam plates tested on the bench and the stock 2.8mm gave him the most fuel, but it was also at the lowest RPM.

[welderboy250]

Just took apart one of my stock pumps today and found it doesn't have the 2.8 cam, that is unless I'm seriously confused about how to measure a cam. The lobes measured approximately 3.2mm higher than the low part of the profile.

[welderboy250]

A few years ago, GLHS had different cam plates tested on the bench and the stock 2.8mm gave him the most fuel, but it was also at the lowest RPM.

That sounds like a bunch of bull doesn't it? Isn't that kind of like saying a smaller plunger delivered more fuel?